Re: Real world weight loss program and it` cost..........
[Re: fullmetaljacket]
#1354190
05/25/14 07:45 AM
05/25/14 07:45 AM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,577 north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
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"Butt Crack Bob"
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,577
north of coder
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as you mentioned a stainless k, wouldn't a dipped standard k be as light ? I thought those stainless ones were a thinner gage material, just made of stainless because the material supposedly made up the strength difference ? or couldn't you control the dip to maintain the strength needed in a steel k ? I'm not really sold on stainless being a stronger material unless it is a different alloy than the commonly available 416,303,304,316, etc. stuff that I have worked with. I know there are stronger alloys out there, but I don't know what they are, and I have not machined or welded anything except those I mentioned.
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Re: Real world weight loss program and it` cost..........
[Re: moparx]
#1354191
05/25/14 11:23 PM
05/25/14 11:23 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 6,849
fullmetaljacket
master
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master
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 6,849
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Believe it or not, my K is more or less bone stock since all I did was cut off and sand smooth the original motor mounts positions. The K is a very important part to the cars front end stability and I just will not dip it because dipping has a tendency to really weaken or thin out areas that can not be seen by the naked eye, so off limits for me on that technique even with controlled dip periods. That is why I limit dipping to non crucial components that basically hang there for the ride. Doors are the most stretch that I would go.
The Factory experimented with Magnesium and thin gauge stainless K's, but it was the stainless K's that more or less made limited production but were prone to cracking from the violent wheel stands and drunkenness of the AFX's. Stainless depending on its alloy properties can stress crack often with out notice, so exotic alloys have been introduced to it through the military's usage of stainless. Perhaps aircraft grade 321 stainless may be able to hang in such unfriendly environments such as the K's. I don't know for sure.
I could not peacefully install a stainless K that has been through the gauntlet of past abuse, especially banged up, twisted and welded examples. It would have to be a perfect and unu$ed $ample and even then, I would practice an often rigorous multi-point inspection of its stress points. Good practice anyway in any quick car.
At days end, I will not go the tubular route, but rather shave and weld the side pinch rails a little like what DVW has meticulously done to his stock K or in a dream world scenario, have a completely stock looking type built out of titanium. It sure would be pretty.
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Re: Real world weight loss program and it` cost..........
[Re: fullmetaljacket]
#1354199
05/31/14 03:06 PM
05/31/14 03:06 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,414 St. Croix, US Virgin Islands
David_in_St_Croi
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,414
St. Croix, US Virgin Islands
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Quote:
Four 6061-T6 hand cut studs and hardware. Lock washers are crucial here in keeping things from loosening up with the lack of #20 fine thread found usually at the studs nut end. Carburetor is now snug and tight over its nest.
You know, loctite is lighter than lock washers.... On aluminium probably best to use the purple loctite on the nuts and blue in the manifold
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Re: Real world weight loss program and it` cost..........
[Re: Thumperdart]
#1354205
06/04/14 12:43 AM
06/04/14 12:43 AM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 6,849
fullmetaljacket
master
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master
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 6,849
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Thumper, where you been at? Thought you quit the featherweights anonymous club. LOL.
I feel you on your concerns. It's a concern for any car of value, but especially for a special materials piece. I always think of such horrors such as a knucklehead plowing into me on these mean streets, but I do keep a Owl's eye on everyone on the road as well as keeping safe long distances from people out front and scooting from tail blazers out back. Nerve racking it is. As far as the car, At least the chassis and other important things are still there and at full strength. Lots of 7075-6061-T, 2024-T and 6AL-4v materials through out. Maybe just as strong or stronger than steel. I think this is why so many new cars have plastic injected with aluminum these days to take most of the hits brunt.
Believe it or not, (and I know it depends on the type of hit and at what angle) a few years back, a good friend of mine that had some of my lightening tricks applied to his Duster's front end survived pretty much intact from a pretty rough spin out and hit into a divider wall on the BQE in the rain with street/strip tires. He was going 55 miles an hour. I was right behind him and had front row seats to the whole screw up. The bumper of which I did not like because it was fiberglass (Fiberglass Bias here) was the only fatality compared to all my various alloy brackets,braces and hardware supports. All the brackets took the brunt of the hit and were repairable. The car is now back on the road again. Either way, fingers crossed and always crossing at the green, not in between.
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