If I remember correctly from 10 years back, a distant friends 64' Dodge 500 Polara Hardtop that we were putting on a slight diet had his steel front bumper coming in at 36 lbs alone. The brackets I honestly do not remember as he never kept detailed logs like I do and he let it go out the back door at the end.
My 65' front bumper came in at 27-1/2 lbs and I know that his was heavier because the 64's were slightly longer cars and a tad heavier than the 65's. I don't use Fiberglass but I would give a good guesstimate for a front bumper to be at 3-5 lbs alone.

The 64' bumper brackets were bulkier than the simple 65's. Slightly easier to make out of Aluminum, but there's a slight radius that needs to be respected so that the bumper fits like stock.

Good thread. I am looking to get as much weigh off the front of my car as possible. 1974 B Body.

The 64's, though their grilles,headlamp buckets and trim were more handsome than the 65's, they were also slightly heavier. The 65's flat mug called for some cheap and lighter material as opposed to the sturdier 64'mugs. I love the 64' Post Sedans and Hardtops much better than the 65's, but the 65' Post Sedans are a tad leaner. I'll take it. Every ounce counts.

Say what! You have a good hustle ahead my friend. but it can be done. Those 74'Hardtops have some hefty doors and hoods. Nice cars as well and coming up the pipe as far as demand.
My favorite Chargers are the 71'-72's with their slope rear quarter windows and long hoods. A huge challenge indeed as we have seen or heard from Bluecharger on here, if that's his name.
71' and up B-bodies in my eyes could be some of the stealthiest cars out there because of their bulk presence but potential leaner insides.

I see nothing in my racing rules saying I have to run a hood. I think that will be one of the easiest weight loss tricks for me. Battery is already in the trunk. That isolated k frame is the biggest pita! It weighs a lot and there isn't much out there fixing that.

Excuse my sarcasm. but there's no trick in deleting a whole hood. I would think that a cleverly gutted hood is more the flavor pill for your car, plus the absence of it would create such an aerodynamic drag that it would contradict the weight savings. I think it is illegal to run with out one in the door classes as well.
In real world theory, I think your hood can be gutted a little bit here and there and still use the hinges and latches.
The extreme method being to gut it in a precise surgical way where four hood pins (Aluminum) could be the anchors for the hood and it still is steel. Probably will only shave about 20 lbs going the extreme route.
I'm not sure what glass companies may be out there that make good quality hoods that are that long in size and still retain a firm good looking stance. Homework.
The K member is another story. You would just have to really study the whole animal and make good real sound decisions. I know that there are many little pockets in that car that can be leaned out. maybe an ounce here, a pound there, but it could be done till a maximum point in street trim. Good luck.

Is this car of RACE or a street pedigree?

I really don't know of all the rules on the track though I do apply a lot of them on street cars for obvious safety reasons of course.

Well I'm not currently driving it on the street. Its my bracket racecar. I would have to have a hood on it for the street. Currently there is no front bumper or valance and it has fiberglass front fenders.
I have been running a hood but the back is jack up a bit because my intake set up is too tall.
The car weighed 4060 lbs with me in it back in 2004.

hood

I stand corrected. Though I remember that Plymouth's do have a lighter weight per car. The 64' Dodge front bumpers cover a lot of real estate more than the 64's. They have that funny bend that swing around the main end headlamps and then swing back along the side of the leading edge of the fenders.

Some cars hoods are inherently heavy no matter what you do, but trimming them here and there is better then nothing. Wow, 4000 plus pounds is heavy to pull, so i guess that pulling the hood is a no brainer.
The bumper brackets have been removed so at least you got rid of that dead weight. Aren't those the 5 mph bumper brackets?
Wow, fiberglass fenders for a 74' B, where did you get those? never seen a pair.

Talking about Boyz and the Hoods. DVW, figured you would love this.

Don't try this at home, I only lost a few years out of my life trying to get this puppy to fit correct.

Well they were made in Canada and where sitting in another members barn. I just happened to be right place right time(my steel one were rotted) and he delivered them to me at Battleship cove.

No, I'm not into flat hood racing.

Finally after some hair pulling and cuss words not in the dictionary, I lugged it with pre-bends and all to a guru friend with an English wheel and a few power hammers. He gave me directions to the nearest shrink afterwards.

Underside with cross support braces and flat stock hood pin load supports.

I had built the 65'AFX height scoop in 1999 after many tries to have Kramer produce them in fiberglass. Glad I was persistent in making mine out of Aluminum.
Made the scoop with a few blocks of wood, body hammer, stairwell railing in the Housing projects to make the bends, and a little welding on the corners.
Stock steel hood with this scoop at first weighed 79 lbs. Gutted steel hood with scoop then weighed 52 lbs. No cost except the 3003 Aluminum sheet. $40.00
Aluminum hood with Aluminum AFX scoop weighs in at 25 lbs. Cost $90.00 5'X10'3003 Aluminum sheet and my friends patience.
Heavier than a glass hood but keeping to the name Fullmetaljacket.