What is the best deal on rust treatment? I am restoring a rust bucket and have a media/bead blaster that I plan to use but need to get something that will kill the rust. I would like some kind of treatment/ chemical/primer that I can weld and paint over if they make that. And- Anybody ever use a garden sprayer to apply it?

Do I need to post this in another area?

As the saying goes, you need several arrows in your quiver.

Where you can blast to clean steel, epoxy primer is excellent.

Where you are making weld repairs, clean to steel first then apply weld through primer to the joint. Let it dry and weld away.

Where you have cleaned loose rust and paint but not all the way to white steel, a rust stop primer is excellent. I use Eastwood Rust encapsulator. I've heard good things about Rust Bullet. Red Rustoleum is good also; it just dries slow and you have to watch topcoating with a paint with "hot" solvent.

There are other approaches but the above has worked well for me. Eastwood sells most of the stuff I mentioned.

Do you have some pics of your project?

Basically you clean, strip and blast to bare steel and hit it with epoxy primer. Anything else is just a patch job. Either you get rid of the rust or you cover it up.

thnx, here is my 68 charger rust bucket> http://s1284.beta.photobucket.com/user/daytonakid/library/68%20charger

That's a project!

Nice! Looks like you have your work "cut out" for you!
And, you look equipped to take on such a big project! It's a Great car btw. 68 Charger is my favorite from the 60's.

Why not invest in one of those small gravity gun sand blaster's to eliminate the need for a large percentage of what you would otherwise consider encapulating? Eastwood also sell's a decent one of those. It certainly works better than the Sears model! Or, my dad recently had his project soda blasted and it was VERY reasonably priced! The guy came right to his house and did it in the driveway with his own portable compressor unit and whole outfit. If you've spent much time under a blasting hood, you'll appreciate spending that money to have the job done well! Sure beats finishing your pride and joy that represent's a significant investment of your time and effort going bad on you a few years down the road. Of course there's many tight areas that you still may need to encapsulate, but at least try to minimize that. That said, Eastwood again... Best of Luck! Keep us updated!

A trick I heard about on moparts is to use vinegar, lemon juice. I mixed up some in a hand sprayer. My panel had a lot of surface rust, sprayed it on and let set ,presto gone.0000 steel wool on the tough spots. Real cheep maybe a dollar per 16 oz

I'm surprised that the POR15 boobirds haven't swooped down and crapped all over this post yet.

I am going to use Chassis Saver for my floor pan and the underside of my trunk where it has new panels. My paint shop swears by it and says it's much better and cheaper than POR15.

POR 15 sucks....if you want to coat it use Rust Bullet

My POR-15 application is going on 10 years old. Places that were smooth and clean were misted with etch primer. Suspension parts were wire brushed. Everything was washed with brake cleaner. The stuff is like armor. The other brands work great too.
One application area was over "dead" paint and I was able to peel it off with ease.

Some of the rusr removers/converters I have used are:
Naval jelly
Evapo Rust
Eastwoods Fast etch
Eastwoods rust converter
Permatex(loctite) Rust Detroyer
Picklex
I used Eastwoods Bloxide for a weld thru primer. I liked it because you can apply it right where you want it. It has aluminum in it and protects metal for many months. It needs to be applied to clean metal though. The Evapo rust is really good too, but it does not offer long term protection. The Picklex is a very good rust remover/converter, and can be welded thru, except you cannot use it with self etching primer.
I also used Rust Bullet on places where I could not replace metal, or metal that was deeply pitted. It is 4 years now and seems fine.
Hope this helps.