Proportioning valve
#1344721
12/01/12 08:36 PM
12/01/12 08:36 PM
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,497 STL
cdstl
OP
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OP
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OK. The front-end rebuild is complete. Of course I decided to put on new calipers and hoses during the process. I noticed that I had a glop of rusty sludge in the hose fitting and decided that the Master Cylinder and Prop valve should probably be changed. I am sure that they are original equipment and my brake fluid is a little rusty looking although the inside of the Master is not rusty/scaly. The previous owner put braided lines from the Master to the Prop valve and also to the front brakes. I will probably end up putting in a new line to the rears since it is probably rust-welded to the Prop valve. My question is whether or not anyone rebuilds the Prop valve or installs a new one. Inline Tube has a combination Brake Warning/Proportioning/Metering Valve assembly for $95. Thanks http://inlinetube.com/Prop%20Valves/VML105.htmMy Valve
Last edited by cdstl; 12/01/12 08:39 PM.
1972 Cuda 340 4 speed, 2001 Ram CTD 4x4 6 speed, 1970 Duster 408 4 speed, 1996 Ram 5.9 2x4 auto, 1965 Coronet 500
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Re: Proportioning valve
[Re: cdstl]
#1344722
12/01/12 09:02 PM
12/01/12 09:02 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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Myself I'd open it up & see how far you can take it apart. Shouldn't be too complicated
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Proportioning valve
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1344723
12/01/12 09:41 PM
12/01/12 09:41 PM
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,497 STL
cdstl
OP
pro stock
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OP
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Looking at the FSM it shows a couple of O rings on the differential piston and one on the Warning Switch. I have thought about getting it apart and just blowing it out good with brake cleaner.
Has anyone had one apart?
Thanks
1972 Cuda 340 4 speed, 2001 Ram CTD 4x4 6 speed, 1970 Duster 408 4 speed, 1996 Ram 5.9 2x4 auto, 1965 Coronet 500
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Re: Proportioning valve
[Re: cdstl]
#1344725
12/02/12 07:20 AM
12/02/12 07:20 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,143 Niles , Ohio
therocks
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
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oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,143
Niles , Ohio
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If it works now just clean it with some brake clean and reinstall.Mine is probally 40 years old and pulled from a junk yard.Still works great.Rocky
Chrysler Firepower
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Re: Proportioning valve
[Re: cdstl]
#1344726
12/02/12 10:14 AM
12/02/12 10:14 AM
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,497 STL
cdstl
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The little bit of sludge was in the front brake caliper line. When I "bench bleed" the master into 2 water bottles, while installed on the car, the smaller rear brake reservoir draws a lot of fluid. The larger front brake reservoir doesn't seem to draws very well. Shouldn't they both draw fluid at the same rate?
At the very least it sounds like the master is plugged a little in the front brake reservoir.
Opinions?
1972 Cuda 340 4 speed, 2001 Ram CTD 4x4 6 speed, 1970 Duster 408 4 speed, 1996 Ram 5.9 2x4 auto, 1965 Coronet 500
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Re: Proportioning valve
[Re: cdstl]
#1344728
12/02/12 07:58 PM
12/02/12 07:58 PM
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,497 STL
cdstl
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OK, here goes. I pulled the Master Cylinder and I am going to get a new one. I even managed to get the pushrod out without dorking up the bushing. The question is what is the difference between the following:
AutoZone $30.00 Napa $45.00 MP Brakes $90.00
Thanks
1972 Cuda 340 4 speed, 2001 Ram CTD 4x4 6 speed, 1970 Duster 408 4 speed, 1996 Ram 5.9 2x4 auto, 1965 Coronet 500
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Re: Proportioning valve
[Re: cdstl]
#1344729
12/03/12 09:36 AM
12/03/12 09:36 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,143 Niles , Ohio
therocks
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
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oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,143
Niles , Ohio
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Usually the difference is a bucnh of $$$$.We have reman masters on 4 old Mopars.All from Advanced.Mine is at least 15 years old.No problems.We used quite a few at work also.I think in 30 years Ive had maybe 2 or 3 bad ones.Most people that have problems over pushing the guts when bench bleeding and or bleeding the system.Push too far and you risk tearing the seals inside.Rocky
Chrysler Firepower
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Re: Proportioning valve
[Re: burdar]
#1344732
12/03/12 05:02 PM
12/03/12 05:02 PM
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,497 STL
cdstl
OP
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OP
pro stock
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,497
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Good post. I have a FSM but wouldn't mind seeing a picture of that Prop valve. For now I am changing the Master. I got one from NAPA pretty much because they could have it the next morning. Should I take the Master apart to put the pushrod with the bushing in or should it go in fairly easy? It didn't want to come out at all but after it did it was in fairly decent shape. I still ordered 3 more.
Thanks
1972 Cuda 340 4 speed, 2001 Ram CTD 4x4 6 speed, 1970 Duster 408 4 speed, 1996 Ram 5.9 2x4 auto, 1965 Coronet 500
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Re: Proportioning valve
[Re: cdstl]
#1344733
12/03/12 05:09 PM
12/03/12 05:09 PM
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,395 Iowa
burdar
Owen's Dad
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Owen's Dad
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,395
Iowa
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I found the old post about my sticky valve. The picture of the disassembled valve is in this thread. https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...amp;Search=trueThe problem with mine was the valve assembly on the left side in the picture. It was rusted in the bore from sitting for years. When I tried to remove it, it broke into pieces. I had to find another valve to use for parts. Be careful removing that assembly. If yours is still working, that assembly should come right out. If it doesn't pull right out, do NOT soak it with PB blaster. It will swell the seal and you'll be looking for another prop valve for parts.
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Re: Proportioning valve
[Re: cdstl]
#1344734
12/04/12 08:12 PM
12/04/12 08:12 PM
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,497 STL
cdstl
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CRAP,CRAP and DOUBLE CRAP. Inline Tube has quit stocking this valve. I guess they quit about a year ago because the vendor MBM, whoever that is , was sending them crummy parts that would lock up the brakes when installed.
My valve is not terrible inside and can probably still be used. The shuttle still works and the rubber that I can see is in pretty decent shape. How do you get that shuttle out and can you get rebuild parts? Has anyone had one apart? The shuttle would have to come out of the big end facing the picture. It would sure be nice to clean the gunk out. I have the small parts soaking in brake fluid now, I guess it can't hurt.
I am hoping to buy another valve from a member just in case.
Thanks
1972 Cuda 340 4 speed, 2001 Ram CTD 4x4 6 speed, 1970 Duster 408 4 speed, 1996 Ram 5.9 2x4 auto, 1965 Coronet 500
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Re: Proportioning valve
[Re: cdstl]
#1344737
12/04/12 11:29 PM
12/04/12 11:29 PM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,664 IN
ahy
master
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master
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IN
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Quote:
OK, here goes. I pulled the Master Cylinder and I am going to get a new one. I even managed to get the pushrod out without dorking up the bushing. The question is what is the difference between the following:
AutoZone $30.00 Napa $45.00 MP Brakes $90.00
Thanks
Besides price, don't know. I've used an AZ master on a '98 Neon (3 years ago) and '78 Ford PU (1 1/2 years ago) with no problems. Whichever you choose, agree a new master is good PM.
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Re: Proportioning valve
[Re: Runnin74]
#1344739
12/05/12 12:22 AM
12/05/12 12:22 AM
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,497 STL
cdstl
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Well, there it is and only an O ring holds the shuttle in there? And if I understand you are saying that it comes out of the outlet to the rear brakes and not the end where the valve stem goes. The outlet to the rear brakes on mine has a small brass or steel orifice pressed into the hole a lot like the 2 outlets from the master cylinder. Exactly the size of a wire coat hanger.
How were you able to press the shuttle out?
Thanks for the good picture.
1972 Cuda 340 4 speed, 2001 Ram CTD 4x4 6 speed, 1970 Duster 408 4 speed, 1996 Ram 5.9 2x4 auto, 1965 Coronet 500
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Re: Proportioning valve
[Re: cdstl]
#1344740
12/05/12 01:36 AM
12/05/12 01:36 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 503 St Louis, Missouri
Runnin74
mopar
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mopar
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St Louis, Missouri
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Yep! The o-ring on the left end of the short brass segment holds the two brass pieces together. That end of the short segment slips into the other brass piece up to the second o-ring from the left. The two brass pieces are free to move independently. The rear brake line end of the shuttle is the brass orifice you refer to seeing. The other four brake line fittings on the valve have the small brass pressed in orifices. I just took a small diameter rod and tapped the shuttle out of the bore from the valve stem end. It has to be small as the access hole between the two sides is small and off center from the axis of the bore of the valve. The o-rings all ride in separate machined bores so it goes tight then easy and so on until all the bores have been cleared by the o-rings. Hopefully that is understandable. If not I can make more pics - let me know.
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