Re: Green Bearings
[Re: Scott Carl]
#134403
10/09/08 07:39 PM
10/09/08 07:39 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 12,291 Kent, Wa
340SHORTY
Truck Nut
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Truck Nut
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 12,291
Kent, Wa
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they are ball bearings, not tapered bearings a few diff sources priced about the same nowhere as good as tapered bearings they are pressed on...
I am truckless..
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Re: Green Bearings
[Re: 340SHORTY]
#134404
10/09/08 07:42 PM
10/09/08 07:42 PM
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 21,831 Kirkland, Washington
Pacnorthcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 21,831
Kirkland, Washington
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Quote:
they are ball bearings, not tapered bearings
a few diff sources
priced about the same
nowhere as good as tapered bearings
they are pressed on...
Agreed. For drag racing they are OK, for street driving no, and an autocrosser would destroy them in no time. They don't hold up well to side loading (cornering).
A tapered Timken bearing is a beautiful engineering masterpiece.
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Re: Green Bearings
[Re: Pacnorthcuda]
#134406
10/09/08 09:14 PM
10/09/08 09:14 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,016 Polson, MT
DoctorDiff
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,016
Polson, MT
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An adjustable, Set 7 bearing is a needlessly complicated design that weakens the differential, limits side gear spline engagement, and is prone to leakage and dirt/water contamination in many applications. In addition, axle flange stand-out is not held constant unless you blueprint the axle lengths.
Although most people won't have problems with the snap-ring style Green bearing (not the crimped on flange, RP-400 design still sold by Mopar Performance), the non-adjustable, 3.15" bore Timken set 20 tapered bearing is the strongest, commonly available wheel bearing. Unfortunatley, special housing ends are required to run this bearing on a Mopar application.
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Re: Green Bearings
[Re: DoctorDiff]
#134409
10/10/08 06:57 PM
10/10/08 06:57 PM
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,568 Omaha, Nebraska
Scott Carl
OP
pro stock
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OP
pro stock
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,568
Omaha, Nebraska
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Quote:
I offered a detailed explanation several times in the past.
In fact, I just spent 45 minutes typing another detailed reply. When I hit the submit button, the computer locked up and I lost everything I typed.
I'm not in the mood to type it again.
Thanks Doc and to all. I guess I really just needed the tapered vs ball question answered. BTW Doc, I know just how ya feel on the puter problems and I work in comp tech support
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Re: Green Bearings
[Re: Hillbillyracer]
#134413
10/10/08 10:16 PM
10/10/08 10:16 PM
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,568 Omaha, Nebraska
Scott Carl
OP
pro stock
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OP
pro stock
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,568
Omaha, Nebraska
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Quote:
Quote:
.....I've used the "green" bearings since they've come out.......I haven't had to change out a set Yet!.....in decades!.....and I punish my cars, when I drive them on the street, or track(straight or twisty).......can't tell you how may tapered Timkens I destroyed over the years!
I have been told you can't run them on the street for years and that is total crap Has anyone ever tore apart a 7 1/4 rear end and looked at the bearings,they are small green type bearings with millions of rears on the road in a,b and e body cars that have that rearend in six cylinder cars.I have run them for years in my cars and had zero problems,besides the bearing for a 8 3/4 is much bigger than the 7 1/4.No doubt the tappered bearing is stronger but the green bearings are stronger than most people think
Hmmmmmm This brings me back to my other question. I've done some pricing and I can get stock Fedral Moguls(?) pressed on for $85 plus tax and seals. Can I do Greens that cheap?
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Re: Green Bearings
[Re: Scott Carl]
#134415
10/10/08 10:44 PM
10/10/08 10:44 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 720 Texas
jetdoctor_75402
super gas
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super gas
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 720
Texas
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If you have your own tools and a shop press, you buy the bearings at wholesale price and do the press work yourself. Thats how I handle it normally. I have had a few experiences with machine shop press work that resulted in my needing to replace parts after they just threw it on a 60 ton press without any of the normal support for the item being pressed and wound up with distorted or cracked parts. Plus, I seem to have a phobia about working on my own cars. regards doc 1969 Charger RT (real car not clone) 1970 Dart, fixing to be BB/4 speed hotrod 1972 Dart, daily driver 2000 Jeep TJ (Sahara and yea it goes off road) 2000 Dodge G/Caravan Sport for the occasional car pool deal 2003 Dodge 1500 4x4 and yea it goes off road too 2004 PT Cruiser Turbo 5 speed, My daugher snuck this one in while I was asleep 2008 Jeep JK Sahara, 6 Speed with real off road goodies and a decent stereo, Wife's choice of Mopar Mania (see 2000 Sahara and think about it. 2- ZX cars (1 N/A & 1 Turbo, both 5 speed) that I am thinking seriously about cloning into mini daytonas, just so I can say I have a clone car. Oh yea, the JK has a lifetime warranty, I am worried about whose life???
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Re: Green Bearings
[Re: BergmanAutoCraft]
#134416
10/10/08 11:54 PM
10/10/08 11:54 PM
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,568 Omaha, Nebraska
Scott Carl
OP
pro stock
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OP
pro stock
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,568
Omaha, Nebraska
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Quote:
Agreed. For drag racing they are OK, for street driving no, and an autocrosser would destroy them in no time. They don't hold up well to side loading (cornering).
I love responses like this. I have been using greens for almost a 100K, and I'm not a drag racer...Changed the first set @ 50K.
My concern is that the only reason these need replacing after over 100,000 miles is because they got rusty. I really am not 100% sure its even the bearings making the noise I hear but I figure its the best place to start. It just SOUNDS like bearings The car sat in a flood after a hurricane and then sat for ten years. They had a crusty residue that pretty much washed off with solvent but I didn't go to the trouble of doing a thorough job as I figured I would replace them anyway. I just packed as much grease in as I could with them still on the axle and put them back in. I believe if the car hadn't got a soaking, I wouldn't have this issue
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Re: Green Bearings
[Re: 62maxwgn]
#134418
10/11/08 08:50 AM
10/11/08 08:50 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,982 Ansonia, CT
CJK440
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,982
Ansonia, CT
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Get the greens from DoctorDiff and be done with it. If you have a failure let us know.
2017 Contusion Blue Challenger T/A 392 M6 "BLKNBLU"
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Re: Green Bearings
[Re: Scott Carl]
#134419
10/11/08 09:06 AM
10/11/08 09:06 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200 Upper Midwest
MoparforLife
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200
Upper Midwest
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Quote:
Quote:
Agreed. For drag racing they are OK, for street driving no, and an autocrosser would destroy them in no time. They don't hold up well to side loading (cornering).
I love responses like this. I have been using greens for almost a 100K, and I'm not a drag racer...Changed the first set @ 50K.
My concern is that the only reason these need replacing after over 100,000 miles is because they got rusty. I really am not 100% sure its even the bearings making the noise I hear but I figure its the best place to start. It just SOUNDS like bearings The car sat in a flood after a hurricane and then sat for ten years. They had a crusty residue that pretty much washed off with solvent but I didn't go to the trouble of doing a thorough job as I figured I would replace them anyway. I just packed as much grease in as I could with them still on the axle and put them back in. I believe if the car hadn't got a soaking, I wouldn't have this issue
If the bearings cleaned up and aren't pitted they will be fine. You never remove the bearings from the axle to clean and pack only remove to replace as there is normally no salvage once removed. Clean and inspect and pack with a needle on a grease gun to make sure to get grease packed in between all the rollers and smear a liberal coat on the bearing face when installing. Remember they get no other lubrication and are not lubricated from the rear end lubricant. The inner seal should keep all rear end lubricant out of the bearing area. In your case it doe sound like they should be replaced.
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Re: Green Bearings
[Re: DoctorDiff]
#134420
10/11/08 01:50 PM
10/11/08 01:50 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157 Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
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Quote:
I sell green bearings for $60 pair. Price includes gaskets and bearing retainers.
That's a good price!......really can't beat that
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Re: Green Bearings
[Re: DoctorDiff]
#134421
10/11/08 03:32 PM
10/11/08 03:32 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,877 Rio Linda, CA
John_Kunkel
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,877
Rio Linda, CA
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Quote:
I offered a detailed explanation several times in the past.
In fact, I just spent 45 minutes typing another detailed reply. When I hit the submit button, the computer locked up and I lost everything I typed.
I'm not in the mood to type it again.
OK, I'll make it easier, you said:
An adjustable, Set 7 bearing is a needlessly complicated design that weakens the differential,
"Needlessly" is a relative judgement but how does it weaken the differential compared to the Green?
limits side gear spline engagement,
In a stock differential?
and is prone to leakage and dirt/water contamination in many applications.
Only if submerged in water or improperly installed. The seals on the Green have limits too.
In addition, axle flange stand-out is not held constant unless you blueprint the axle lengths.
That's the one I don't get. Please explain.
The INTERNET, the MISinformation superhighway
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