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I am now finally going to order a new block so my choices are limited to world and the mopar block because they have wedge mounts. Has anyone here run the alum block on the street and were you able to get one with the lifter wholes already drilled.

Thanks

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yes! be aware they may have chinese studs in them with ARP nuts! big thread on that before do a search. change them over to ARP studs.


(world block)

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I am now finally going to order a new block so my choices are limited to world and the mopar block because they have wedge mounts. Has anyone here run the alum block on the street and were you able to get one with the lifter wholes already drilled.

Thanks

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yes! be aware they may have chinese studs in them with ARP nuts! big thread on that before do a search. change them over to ARP studs.


(world block)

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X2 change them and hone the litfers holes

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I am now finally going to order a new block so my choices are limited to world and the mopar block because they have wedge mounts. Has anyone here run the alum block on the street and were you able to get one with the lifter wholes already drilled.

Thanks

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yes! be aware they may have chinese studs in them with ARP nuts! big thread on that before do a search. change them over to ARP studs.


(world block)

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I have one on my Valiant and have had no issues with it. All the usual checks with any aluminum block are required with this one: ensure the sleeves sit flat with the deck, check for the aforementioned ARP studs (that was a while ago), be sure the rear seal retainer fits correctly in the block. Some of the retainers on the market are not machined correctly.

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there ok if your making 700 hp but they are junk after that

you can actually see the block flex as you are machineing it

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I am now finally going to order a new block so my choices are limited to world and the mopar block because they have wedge mounts. Has anyone here run the alum block on the street and were you able to get one with the lifter wholes already drilled.

Thanks

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yes! be aware they may have chinese studs in them with ARP nuts! big thread on that before do a search. change them over to ARP studs.


(world block)

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As I stated in that other thread, you cannot just replace them!!!!!!

The crank bores must be re-alinged honed at a minimum after re-torquing to the correct spec if you indeed find this issue. If they don't clean up, its junk.

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sorry you had back luck. I had back luck with a carb before that others swear by.... but I never had done what you mentioned and all is okay and still to date. I run an oberg filter I check regularly and the only thing that has shown up in there is the bronze dizzy bushing crap (prolly my fault somehow on something) (IMO obergs are worth their weight in gold)and to say world blocks only good to 700hp is silly IMO. andyf has made more than that with stock block stuff. however I heard world had issues before so who knows. maybe I am lucky for now

To the OP if ya go that route here is the stud replacement you need

ARP #AR4.620-1LB X 8 and #AR4.400-1LB X 2

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I am now finally going to order a new block so my choices are limited to world and the mopar block because they have wedge mounts. Has anyone here run the alum block on the street and were you able to get one with the lifter wholes already drilled.

Thanks

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Why would yoou want a aluminum bock to run on the street unless you want to impress your friends and those that don't know what block material is better for ring sealing If your going to use a power adder like a blower or turbo ignore the above My stock 400 block pump gas stroker single four barrel carb. makes 727 HP, 710 ft. lbs torque at 4300 ft. on a stingy DTS engien dyno

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I had a Alum world block two years ago and it was complete garbage.Is this a new better design? If not stay away.Go either kb or Indy

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http://factory.dhgate.com/china/aluminium+block/

Someone told me world block is made here.

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Sorry you were told incorrectly, it comes from Europe.