I have had problem all the way with my cooling system, have done everything - I promise.
Today's good question. How could it be 158 F on driver side of thermostat housing and 220 F on the passenger side. I have temperature sending units on both sides.
I even measure temperature with an equipment outside the waterpump housing, almost same reading.
Also measure on the cylinder heads. The passenger side head was over 220 F and the driver side head was just above 160 F.

Could it be a blockade in the passenger side water jacket (engine block)??

Bad temp sending units, put each of them in boiling water to see if they read about 220*, or air but that is doubtful. TIm

Sounds like it is not full and has air pockets?

The sending units is fine.

(1) minor combustion leak at the head gasket from warped deck or bad head gasket (2) air pocket (3) obstruction in the cooling passages somewhere.(4) head gasket cooling holes not punched out properly. (5) Some blocks do not have adequate cooling holes in the decks themselves but they do tend to come through the same side to side even if inadequate. First I'd test the air above the coolant level in the radiator with the block check kit that has the blue fluid that changes color if combustion gasses are present or if you have an emissions checking station have them stick the probe into the rad air & you'll know in seconds if that's it. I'd jack the front end up HIGH then gun it with stat out to see if I could fix an air pocket. Then I'd pull the freeze plugs & flush it out. Lastly I'd pull the heads and check the head gaskets/deck

Thanks for the reply. Would it be an air pocket on the passenger side then because its warmer there?
When shut off the car its a loudly ticking sound and with vibration in the cooling system, could that be a sign of air pocket.
How hard could it be to get rid of air pocket. Have never had any problem with that.

Have read a thread here about a hemi block with serious blockage in water jacket. Hope my block havent. Wouldnt be suprised thought.

if it's an air pocket yes it would be on the warm(er) side. Clarify that about a vibration in the cooling system

I have had the car jacked up high and let the engine run without the rad cap, when the thermostat opened it puke out water out of the radiator. Did it til it dident puke out any more and the water just moved around in the rad. It still runned warm after that.

Inside? Possible blockage in the block or something?

yes inside the cooling system. You've eliminated an air pocket. blockage or combustion leak

Typical! Switched out my A990 race hemi heads for a new stage V heads because I suspect a combustion leak in them. One combustion chamber was welded and such on them.
The block is a new MP block which have been decked for perfect surface.
Hard to think its the gasket or the heads...

Then I would look at the tuneup for the overheating issue, if that is the core issue.

I'm afraid it could be something like this thread:

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=7334365&an=0&page=0

Have anyone else have experiance of heat differences like this?? If, what cured it??

Must do some disassambling I think...

Hi, sorry to hear about your problems again. But you did find faults on the old set of heads? And now you have same sort of problems with new heads.... Clearly indicating a combined fault, and the one remaining is in your coolant system. If there is a blockage on one side maybe you can check it by adding pressure gauges on each waterpump inlet to the bottom hole of the block, or maybe it is easier just to dismantle the waterpump housing and look for the casting flaws. If you take out the waterpump , you can make a hose connection and try flushing through, and see what comes out of the upper hole. Take care not to put city waterpressure on the system....
Det er enkelt å tilvirke en flens med oppet øvre port, og en slang nippel på nedre, pass på å ikke stå rett framfor når du tester!
Mvh från Norge

Tack Norge,
Nice to hear from you again. Have think about that also. Why cant I use the city water, high pressure?
I have got another interesting advice. Plug the bypass hole in the waterpump housing, the one you see when looking down where the thermostat mount. Also drill a 3 mm hole in the plug for eliminate possible air pockets.

This will force the water to that side what I understand?

Anyone have a picture or schema on the water flow in the cooling system (big block).

Bilen är registrerad med hemi och kontrollbesiktigad nu. Ha det bra och tack.

Hei, igjen! Grattis med besiktning och Hemi!

Har tittet på noen pumpehus i mitt lager: Om du har ett kinesisk alu hus (Hughes, 440S, Procomp osv), så er dem for trange spesielt på nedre hålet passasjer side, såvidt du kan stikke lille fingren inn i hålet. Det ser du når du tar av huset. Jeg bruker å porte opp på både sider (kolla att du icke porter igjenom invendig til grannekanalene!), spesielt pass. side från båda håll, vet at Dulcich har åtvarat om såna hus förut. Jeg ville ha kollat dette först. Om du blockar bypassen så stiger trycket, och luften tvings ut. Den forsvinner når du har kört ett tag uansett. Jeg ville ikke ha blocket bypassen.

Flödet er: ut fra pumpen i botten, vattnet strömmer igjenom blocken til baksidan, upp til toppen, framåt och ned i blocken och ut igjenom övre hål, inn i vp, och i retur enten via termostat til radiator, igjenom den i topp, suges inn från botten in i center vp (varm motor) eller bypassen från tryck till sugeside vp (kald) eller en mix (körning med arbetande termostat). Samme på både blocksidor!
Det finns små hål som läcker vatten mellom topp ocj block, för utjamning och ta bort luft.
Gamle Mopar aluhus er bättre, alle gjutjern Ok, och det finns dyrere aftermarket som flöder OK. Jeg har levert flere motorer med portede kinahus, ingen problemer.
Kolla ochså blocken år huset er demontert.
Jeg har hatt en World block med klumper av gjutsand som blokkerte flödet på insidan av lyftarne (borret hål från lyftergallerien, meislat bort skiten, gjenget och pluggat! ), den har lite dårligt design der pga de lange bossene til innvendig topp studs. Kollas med tryckluft från toppdeckene före motorne monteres. Mycket grova deler från USA!
Hoppas du hittar/fixar felet! Ursäkta mitt dårliga svenska!
Mvh
Øyvind Mostad

Tack Öyvind,
Inget fel på din svenska. Jag tänkte blocka bypassen med en plugg med ett litet hål igenom så lite kan gå förbi. En kompis har gjort det på ett betongat block med goda resultat.
Jag har ett mancini racing vattenpumphus. Får inspektera det.

Hej, det kan du godt, pass på å ikke blokkere utloppet for å forhindre trycket på nätet å gå in i kylsystemet . Sålenge du har fri oppning, OK!
Kolla Mancini huset, det kan hende at det er OK. Bruker å vare gjutet in texten "hi-flow" eller motsvarende i huset.
Mvh!