OK, we have a little show and shine this evening so I got the Dart out and gave her a bath, spiffed all up and ready to go. I had driven her over to the area where I wash the cars, no problem. But when I jumped in to go, it would start and die, start and die, as soon as I turn the key to star position, the 360 cranks over, she fires up and I let go of the key and it dies as soon as the key returns to the run position. I checked fuel, OK. then I notice that as soon as I let the key return to run the amp guage jumps to the far right, showing a high charge rate, as it dies. Then I crank it and it starts, then as the key returns to run, the engine dies, but if I bring the key back to start position, it will fire back up. Seems like it will run in the start position but not in the run position. So do I have a problem with the key switch or somewhere else. Or did I make any sense at all of this whole thing?

I had the same problem years ago with my '69 A-12 car, it was

a melted wire at the back of the switch that was grounding out.

I store the car at a garage so tomorrow I'll go over and check that out. Any other things it could be? Any way to test the ign switch to see if that is the problem?

Pull the yellow wire off of the starter relay to disable the starter. Have a helper hold the key to start. you under the hood with a VOM & see if the coil positive primary terminal and the ECU are getting fire & if not work back upstream to the ballast connector and the bulkhead then inside to the ign switch if need be to find the open

Normally what you are discribing is caused by a bad ballast resistor. The power to the coil bypasses the ballast when the key is in start but in run the power is supplied through the ballast. There are two seperate ignition sources from the ignition switch. Roberts test is for when there is no fire in the start position not what you are experiencing.

yes I was backwards

Thanks, I have some things to check now. Appreciate the tips. If I am understanding, the problem is most likely with a bad ballast resistor or in the ign. switch?
BTW, there is an MSD 6AL controlling the spark and an Accel Yellow Super Coil.
Jim

I don't think you use a ballast with MSD. If not then turn the key to the run position and see if you have 123v to the coil. If not then back track the + coil wire to the ignition switch to see if it is not broken. Some times it can be bad at the bulkhead or at the plug at the column.

99.9% it's the ballast which from your setup you don't need to be using. rig up a jumper wire and bypass it.

I can"t remember if I bypassed the resistor when I put in the MSD 18 years go and just left it on the firewall or jumped it out. I'll be working on it later today after church. Thanks again for the tips.
Jim

Just wanted to say thanks again. The problem was the ballast resistor. I bypassed it and the Dart ran fine. Don't know why it was left in the cicuit when converted to MSD. Guess I should do a better job of reading the instructions, LOL.
Without the feedback it would have taken me awhile to find it.