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99 ram 1500 u joint passenger side front axle #1283389
08/11/12 09:32 AM
08/11/12 09:32 AM
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Mass
DAYCLONA Offline OP
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Hey guys, going to change out axle U joints on my 99 RAM 1500, DANA 44 axle I know the drivers side is a straight pull, no issuses, but on the passenger side do I need to have the vaccum shift 4x4 ingaged on the front axle so I don't lose the alignment with the fork/collar when re-inserting the axle shaft, or is it a "straight forward" pull like the drivers side not having to engage 4 wheel drive?...any help appreciated

Mike

Re: 99 ram 1500 u joint passenger side front axle [Re: DAYCLONA] #1283390
08/11/12 10:01 AM
08/11/12 10:01 AM
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buildanother Online content
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I believe it is like the older trucks that had pass side diff. I would start it and activate the 4 wheel drive just prior to pulling the shaft out.

Last edited by buildanother; 08/11/12 10:03 AM.
Re: 99 ram 1500 u joint passenger side front axle [Re: DAYCLONA] #1283391
08/11/12 10:07 AM
08/11/12 10:07 AM
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Salem
Grizzly Offline
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Mike:

Nope, you should be fine in 2wd, that's how I've done mine.

Putting the axles back in: Very carefully! Soak the tip and shoulders of the axle stub in gear oil or grease. Guide it in there without touching the axle tube (near impossible, I know). I slid a narrow, clean strip of metal into the bottom of the tube to protect the axle from picking up dirt. If it all goes well that axle seal won't leak for you when you go for your first drive.

Much joy to be had if that seal decides to leak: you got a 50/50 chance of having to pull it all apart again, getting a special tool for the seal and needing two people to put the new one in.

I put greaseable U-joints in mine, Mike and then that way I never have to worry about pulling this horse's-ass, straight-axle-crap apart again. You have to put the needle type zerk in because a normal zerk will not clear the knuckle.

I've had mine apart too many times to have any love for a straight-axle truck. Mechanic's steady wage these stupid things.

Bet you're excited now!!!!!!!!!

Re: 99 ram 1500 u joint passenger side front axle [Re: buildanother] #1283392
08/11/12 10:10 AM
08/11/12 10:10 AM
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DAYCLONA Offline OP
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Thanks Dan, I know it required on the DANA 60 3/4/-1 ton Rams, otherwise you then have to open up the access cover on the axle to re-align everything

Re: 99 ram 1500 u joint passenger side front axle [Re: Grizzly] #1283393
08/11/12 10:12 AM
08/11/12 10:12 AM
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DAYCLONA Offline OP
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Thanks Wayne,...yes it's a joy working on the 94 and up RAMS, esp pulling the wheel hubs, thanks for the tips, much appreciated

Mike

Re: 99 ram 1500 u joint passenger side front axle [Re: DAYCLONA] #1283394
08/11/12 10:14 AM
08/11/12 10:14 AM
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ogletownpa
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There is actually a third axle piece that goes from the fork collar to the center section and that keeps things in line. The passenger side will slide in and out .I changed my pass side even though it didn't need it, thinking I was doing good. I opened a can of worms. The next day there was axle lube coming out the axle tube.I messed the seal up .The seal is inside the pumpkin.Then you have to dissasemble the pumpkin completly to replace the seal. I would recommend greesable joints and regularly greese the drivers side where the torque beats them up.They will last a whole lot longer.I used to have to change mine every year ,but no more.

Re: 99 ram 1500 u joint passenger side front axle [Re: DAYCLONA] #1283395
08/11/12 10:38 AM
08/11/12 10:38 AM
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ogletownpa
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They also make a joint with the zerk in the center of the main body.Just install that type with the zerk facing towards the axle. Then when you greese it,turn the wheel far right and move truck forward untill you can get to the greese fitting.Then you can easily greese it.If you remember right where the tire is in its rotation you can get it right the first time without moving the truck every time you greese it.

Re: 99 ram 1500 u joint passenger side front axle [Re: Grizzly] #1283396
08/11/12 10:53 AM
08/11/12 10:53 AM
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JohnRR Offline
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Quote:

Mike:

Nope, you should be fine in 2wd, that's how I've done mine.

Putting the axles back in: Very carefully! Soak the tip and shoulders of the axle stub in gear oil or grease. Guide it in there without touching the axle tube (near impossible, I know). I slid a narrow, clean strip of metal into the bottom of the tube to protect the axle from picking up dirt. If it all goes well that axle seal won't leak for you when you go for your first drive.

Much joy to be had if that seal decides to leak: you got a 50/50 chance of having to pull it all apart again, getting a special tool for the seal and needing two people to put the new one in.

I put greaseable U-joints in mine, Mike and then that way I never have to worry about pulling this horse's-ass, straight-axle-crap apart again. You have to put the needle type zerk in because a normal zerk will not clear the knuckle.

I've had mine apart too many times to have any love for a straight-axle truck. Mechanic's steady wage these stupid things.

Bet you're excited now!!!!!!!!!




What is the special tool ? I have to do the seal on the passenger side on my 2000 2500 ? I had pulled the axle on it before when the bearing went and I don't remember it being a pain to get it back in? I'll be pulling it apart again to do the ball joints and the u joint this time ,

Re: 99 ram 1500 u joint passenger side front axle [Re: JohnRR] #1283397
08/11/12 11:41 PM
08/11/12 11:41 PM
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Chicago Burbs
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There is a special stepped cup that is needed to install the seals along with a long handle to beat on..
I had my 01 Ram done at a local shop, they did not put it in 4WD and they had a heck of time to replace the axle, they had to pull the CAD off and line it up...

I had to do it myself again becase they used non greasable joints.. I put it in 4WD and had no problems..

Excpect I have one seal leaking and have to take it apart again..

Re: 99 ram 1500 u joint passenger side front axle [Re: JohnRR] #1283398
08/12/12 12:43 AM
08/12/12 12:43 AM
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Salem
Grizzly Offline
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JohnRR:

If your 2500 is the same as the 1/2's, it's a special puller with a die on the end of it that fits the seal perfectly and pulls it in. I tried making my own tool with the old seal but I pooched it and pulled it in sideways. Might have worked if I had a helper hold the tool end still while I tightened it up, but I tried to do it myself.

So, off to the dealer for new seal and this time I asked to borrow their tool and they gladly said "yes". Best piece of advice: get the tool from the dealership.

The entire gory adventure is still fresh in my mind from just a short while ago:

Link.

*Edit* John, they aren't a pain to put the axles back in, but there is dirt and what not in the axle tube and if you touch it with the splines, it gets stuffed into the seal and ruins the rubber.

StHemi: Not sure what the shop was trying to tell you: all you do is rotate the axle stub a bit and clunk, in it goes. The CAD is just a sliding, splined washer connected to the shift fork. Very simple, and is better left un-engaged.







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