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Could this be a bad ballast resistor? What do ya think??

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Could this be a bad ballast resistor? What do ya think??

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Not the ballast. This is a tough one. This is at speed & not while idling? Cruising or WOT?

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First determine if it's spark or fuel problem. Use a timing light on one of the spark plug wires when it stalls and crank with a remote starter or get someone to crank the motor and watch for flash from the timing light.(thanks 1 Wild RT) If you have no flash then start swapping parts if it's electric which I kinda doubt, I'm betting it's fuel especially this time of year .

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First determine if it's spark or fuel problem. Use a timing light on one of the spark plug wires when it stalls and crank with a remote starter or get someone to crank the motor and watch for flash from the timing light.(thanks 1 Wild RT) If you have no flash then start swapping parts if it's electric which I kinda doubt, I'm betting it's fuel especially this time of year .

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When I try to restart its within a few seconds. So by the time I put a light on it, it most likely would have shown spark anyway. On the way to get it inspected today it cut in and out 3 or 4 times. No spitting or sputtering. Just like I shut the key on and off. I think its electrical.

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Got to be sure one way or the other before you can fix it.

Got a fuel filter in front of the fuel pump?

Mine did it earlier this summer and I swore it was electrical because mine did it just like yours, like someone flipped a switch.

I replaced the ballast the first time it happened because I had one with me along with a ECU and voltage reg.(because it was easiest without any tools in a parking lot) It fired right up and I thought cool it fixed it, oh well I guess 20 years isn't bad for one to last?
Then it did it again the next day when it was real hot out.
After more dicking with it, it was fuel related and not electric, if only I would have looked closer the first time.
My problem was the short piece of hose between the sending unit and fuel line, it was kinked and over half way collasped restricking my mechanical pump of fuel. My problems happened on a 95 degree day which we have had quite a few. If it didn't get hot I bet I would not notice until it started to leak and then the pump won't pump at all.
I also think the inside of my rubber fuel line was coming apart, it was about 12 years old and needed to be replaced.

I was so sure I fixed it I loaded it on a trailer and drove the thing in North Dakota, Sacamento and Wendover NV in real high temps and it ran flawless. Even at real hi speeds on the bonneville salt.

But I got to be honest, the wife didn't want to go on the first few drives with me for fear of it quiting on me someplace strange out of town, her loss. lol That's my story.

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have you checked the fusible link on the starter relay?

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My car did the same thing last year, and it was the ECU (MP orange box, installed in about '94 or '95). Also on the "suspect" list is the pickup coil.

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My car would run flawless for like 10-15 minutes in these 90+ degree days, I let it idle in the driveway with a timing light and remote starter switch attached. As soon as it stalled after a good 15 or more minutes I spun the motor over with the remote and squezzed the timing light triger, oh sh!t flash but no fire! It's fuel!! you might try it like that to help figure it out.
Again that was advise from 1 Wild RT and it sure helped me.

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have you checked the fusible link on the starter relay?

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No, but now that you mention it, I will.

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Wouldn't the fusable link kill the whole car if it went bad?

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Wouldn't the fusable link kill the whole car if it went bad?

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Not saying it's the FL but at speed the alt would still feed everything in thru its side of the bulkhead EDIT I would tighten the screw in the coil tower & with it cutting out clean I'm thinking electrical. I'd seperate the bulkhead halves & clean the male terminals with a small metal bristle brush & clean the female halves with a spare male brass terminal (NAPA 725147). You've replaced the pickup you've replaced the ECU & though orange boxes are problematic it did not fix the problem at the time. That leaves the coil & though I hate shotgunning parts at a problem it'd be nice if you could swap a coil off of another car for a quick test. You have more than 1 Mopar right

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Wouldn't the fusable link kill the whole car if it went bad?

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Not saying it's the FL but at speed the alt would still feed everything in thru its side of the bulkhead

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Ohm the pickup coil, should be between 300-550 ohms. Easy to do with no tools except the multimeter. You should check it hot and cold, it's easy to trouble shoot imo.

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