Can anyone please tell me which LC Arm Bushings I should get? I buy almost all my suspension and Chassis parts from Dick Ross,(Firm Feel) or Cass Eslick,(Dr. Diff). I noticed Firm Feel has Nylon Bushings as well as Poly-Urethane. Which ones should I get? I want the most durable material. The Car is a true street, high HP car, with manual 5-Speed, B-Engine with a lot of alloy parts. Thanks,,Eddie

Leave the rubber for the resto crowd, I'd recommend the Poly's, that's all I have run the last 25+ years for a well rounded street/strip/track car, if your ride is track/course dedicated, go nylon

I run and like the poly. Depending on tolerence and stackup, however, the strut rod may not hold the LCA in snug with poly. An adjustable strut rod is the fix.

If you don't have adjustable strut rods and don't want to (maybe) find out by trial and error that you need them, go with the rubber.

How would someone know they need the adjustable strut rod to fix any problems the poly LCA bushing might cause?

What are the symptoms can they be found while doing a front end alignment or is it the LCA moves around when the car is going through different ranges of motion while driving on the street or a track course?

In my case, I couldn't bring the alignment in and it wandered a bit when cornering on an uneven road.

I found the problem by visual inspection. With the front wheels on ramps, I could see a gap of almost 1/8" between the shoulder of the bushing and LCA on the left side. The inboard side of the LCA was out of position and free to slide around. Adjustable rods fixed it. I adjusted the rods to bring the bushings in snug then added just a very little pre load with a final check for binding before re-installing the T bars.

Alignment cam in perfectly and she is steady in the twisties.

Adjustable strut rods are a nice addition, but if all you need to do is prevent fore and aft movement of the bushings on the LCA pivot bolt simply drive the torsion bars ALL THE WAY into the LCA when you install them, not just simply enough to clear the "C" clips in the crossmember. Once you put preload on the "T" bars they wont allow the LCA to move fore or aft.

One lone vote here for keeping the OE-style rubber LCA bushings. There is very little rubber [and therefore flex] in them.

Although usually solvable, the non-rubber style often bring challenges not found when sticking with OE style rubber. Earlier in this thread, you will read as others mention these problems, and the suggested solutions for those problems. If you stick with rubber in the LCA application, you can avoid all of that in the first place.

The problem in this other thread might perhaps be from non-standard LCA bushings.

In my own opinion this is one of the most important bushings to consider.I feel there are extreme loads placed on this bushing which translate in LCA deflection and camber/ possible toe changes during hard cornering.This translates into positive camber and loss of tire contact patch on the loaded outside tire.I have been using the nylon greasable bushings offered by Firm Feel for quite some time now with great results and no problems.These in combination with an adjustable heim mounted strut rod to help control caster changes should work great for you.Good luck.

I am well aware that alternate LCA bushings have many proponents.

Despite the PM from another member that this argument is always an exercise in futility, I will respectfully suggest that the O.P. take a quality oe-style LCA bushing in hand, and note the amount of rubber between the two shells and the density of that rubber. Consider for yourself the likelihood of compression of that rubber, the probable degree of that compression, and the movement that might result.

Consider then the frequency of posts asking about the source of the mysterious front-end noise on cars with alternate material in the LCA bushing.

Also consider the frequency of posts asking how to correct the movement seen in applications using an alternate LCA bushing.

And then consider the frequency of posts defending alternate LCA bushings, with [often unsolicited] explanations of the additional steps one should take to avoid issues with them.

Alternate materials are great for most other suspension applications.

So ends the lone vote, lost in the wilderness.

And I'll waste my time posting a couple pictures the first being a Mopar LCA which as noted by Steve hasn't got allot of rubber in it to deflect... But does have the ability to properly locate the inboard end of the LCA..

And next a set of GM LCA bushings which are worth replacing with something other than rubber.....

The non stock bushing people who claim that the stock bushings are junk and that the stock lca bushings should not be used should go collect 20 years of chasing turns at Watkins Glen and then come back and tell us what they learned.

I have plenty of experience putting the stock lca bushings under real duress with no problems. If the alignment angles were not being held properly by the stock bushings it would show up in the car's handling and the tire wear. It's not happening. When the vehicles are checked on the alignment machine after being tracked there are no changes in the original settings. I must be lucky...

I've noticed a dfference since swapping to poly -

when I did my car 15 years ago i did it all poly, except for the LCA -
after 12 years I replaced the front end and guess what the only worn piece was? yup the rubber lca bushings.

I have the just suspension lca pivot shafts and they fit great without any slop anyone is referring to.

What I've noticed is that rubber bushings are all made to OEM specs, so they ALWAYS fit and work.

Poly bushings are made to fit in different ways and of different types of poly. There is no consistency in how they need to be made to fit among the different manufacturers and you really need to be observent of the particulars of how the lower arm bushings go together and how your poly needs to interface with the bushing shells and arms to successfully make poly work. But if you pay attention to the install, they can be made to work quite well.

Different strokes for different folks.

BTW, I do agree that in GM applications it is a much bigger necessity than in a mopar.

Wow, thanks to ALL for the very informative posts! I will show what I bought and pics of the finished assembly when done.

Surprised "Delrin" bushings have not been mentioned, which I run, but don't have enough miles to comment on durability. It is likely all a arraigning the deck chairs on the titanic issue anyway

i put all poly in one car and all moog rubber in the other, i honestly dont notice a difference. i have not had the problems with the poly lower but i decided to try the moog rubber tghe second time around since i was using the offset upper bushings. not only is there not a lot of rubber in them, its pretty hard for rubber.