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Challenger Back Window #125375
09/24/08 12:46 AM
09/24/08 12:46 AM
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 294
Colorado Springs,Colorado
Roadrunner440-6 Offline OP
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Roadrunner440-6  Offline OP
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Posts: 294
Colorado Springs,Colorado
Was there a rubber seal that goes around the back window of a challenger? And if so, where do you buy it? If not, how does the window seal to keep the rain out?

Re: Challenger Back Window [Re: Roadrunner440-6] #125376
09/24/08 01:23 AM
09/24/08 01:23 AM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 27,347
Today? Who Knows?
1_WILD_RT Offline
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Go to your local bodyshop supply house & ask for a window kit...It is basically a roll of sticky black sealer...

Re: Challenger Back Window [Re: 1_WILD_RT] #125377
09/24/08 10:39 AM
09/24/08 10:39 AM
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 294
Colorado Springs,Colorado
Roadrunner440-6 Offline OP
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Colorado Springs,Colorado
Thanks!

Re: Challenger Back Window [Re: Roadrunner440-6] #125378
09/24/08 11:32 AM
09/24/08 11:32 AM
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,675
Mi.
G-Money1320 Offline
top fuel
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Mi.
Its called butyl and you put it on the glass then set the window in and your done.


416 stroker from Nick at Compu-flow. 11.14 in full street trim. Seems like a new best every time out.
11.06 open headers----so far!!
Re: Challenger Back Window [Re: G-Money1320] #125379
09/25/08 01:04 AM
09/25/08 01:04 AM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 463
IN
polaraholic Offline
mopar
polaraholic  Offline
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Posts: 463
IN
I'm going to have to do the same process soon. I've heard on here that the front and back take different thickness seals.

Re: Challenger Back Window [Re: polaraholic] #125380
09/25/08 12:12 PM
09/25/08 12:12 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,165
Mass
DAYCLONA Offline
I Live Here
DAYCLONA  Offline
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Mass
There's several different size "cords".....I generally find the 5/16 diameter works.....the 3/8 inch sits the window to high, and makes the moulding a PITA to install,....the 1/4 inch sets the window to low.....but sometimes you run across an install that requires a larger or smaller size......best to buy all three, and return what you don't need, rather than making another trip back for another size?....

Re: Challenger Back Window [Re: Roadrunner440-6] #125381
09/25/08 12:16 PM
09/25/08 12:16 PM
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 62
Detroit, MI
F
FC7AARcuda Offline
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Detroit, MI

When I did mine, the guy at the autostore said to also run a bead of urethane caulk around the glass after its installed with the butyl tape. Is the caulk really needed or is that overkill?

Re: Challenger Back Window [Re: FC7AARcuda] #125382
09/25/08 12:34 PM
09/25/08 12:34 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1 Offline
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Cincinnati, Ohio
I had mine installed by a pro with urathane that came out of a battery powered calking gun. The installer told me the most important step was for him to apply this clear primer to the window frames before laying down a big ole bead of urathane(I think that's what it was?) Anyway he told me primer was only available to the people in the trade. I buy alot of glass from this company for my work trucks, so they know me. I asked if I could do it myself next time? But after seeing him dispense the urathane out of the gun about 2 feet above the window channel and get it exactly right, I think I'm gonna call them next time. He made a big deal that he would supply me with the primer if I ever wanted to do it myself. Not properly glued in he said the car would not hold up in a accident!

There was only one bead and you could see it sealed to the glass, he also installed my trim.

Re: Challenger Back Window [Re: Challenger 1] #125383
09/25/08 12:46 PM
09/25/08 12:46 PM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 27,347
Today? Who Knows?
1_WILD_RT Offline
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US automakers didn't start using the glass as a stressed part of the body till the eighties...Your Challenger glass wasn't originally urethaned in but theres no real problem doing it that way....Other then when the installer gets sloppy & the trim winds up glued to the body...


As far as the other poster who was told to backfill the channel after installing the glass, I like doing that as it can prevent rust in the channel & assures a good seal on the glass...Again be careful you don't glue the trim to the body..

Re: Challenger Back Window [Re: 1_WILD_RT] #125384
09/25/08 12:52 PM
09/25/08 12:52 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1 Offline
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Cincinnati, Ohio
Quote:

US automakers didn't start using the glass as a stressed part of the body till the eighties




Makes sence, he did a good sales job on me. But he was a big GTO restorer so we connected pretty good. He thought I was only a diesel truck mechanic and could'nt beleive it when he saw my home garage.

Re: Challenger Back Window [Re: Challenger 1] #125385
09/25/08 01:47 PM
09/25/08 01:47 PM
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,307
Looking for a way out of Middl...
IMGTX Offline
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I have been doing my own windows since I was 13. they are pretty easy to do. Best in the summer, cold glass cracks easier. Take your tme and if it doesn't set right the frist time cut it out and do it again. Don't try to push it out and reset it. DAMHIK

Like he said the older cars do not need the urethane sealer to bond the glass to the cars since they are not structural components.

It is my understanding that while Urethane is strong it is not UV resistant. since it isn't new cars have black edges to protect the selaer from degrading in sunlight. If that is true then Butyl tape is better on old cars since they do not have the black edges.

Gary you do great work you do on your cars. so if your window guy did a good job he must have done a real good job but he was a salesman. You can install the older windshields without the primer and they will be fine but may leak faster if the windshieild doesn't fully adhear to the body. Also the primer is not a "Tradesman only" item, several companies make it including 3M. Most glass shops have big bottles they will loan you if you ask. It used to be there was a different primer for the glass and the metal of the body now most companies sell one for both.

Re: Challenger Back Window [Re: IMGTX] #125386
09/25/08 02:03 PM
09/25/08 02:03 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1 Offline
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Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
Quote:

I have been doing my own windows since I was 13. they are pretty easy to do. Best in the summer, cold glass cracks easier. Take your tme and if it doesn't set right the frist time cut it out and do it again. Don't try to push it out and reset it. DAMHIK

Like he said the older cars do not need the urethane sealer to bond the glass to the cars since they are not structural components.

It is my understanding that while Urethane is strong it is not UV resistant. since it isn't new cars have black edges to protect the selaer from degrading in sunlight. If that is true then Butyl tape is better on old cars since they do not have the black edges.

Gary you do great work you do on your cars. so if your window guy did a good job he must have done a real good job but he was a salesman. You can install the older windshields without the primer and they will be fine but may leak faster if the windshieild doesn't fully adhear to the body. Also the primer is not a "Tradesman only" item, several companies make it including 3M. Most glass shops have big bottles they will loan you if you ask. It used to be there was a different primer for the glass and the metal of the body now most companies sell one for both.




Very good info, Thanks for sharing.







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