Has anyone had any kind of failure? if so what were the symptoms? My brake system has work perfectly for 8 years but suddenly my brakes need to be pumped up once to have a decent pedal, then the pedal goes to pooh and needs to be pumped the next call to stop. I have Wilwood disc all around. I bled the brakes just to see if there was air= nope. Replaced the master with a new one from Dr Diff = no improvement after LOTS of bleeding. Im starting to think the linelock may be at fault. I have my linelock installed to prevent fluid from going to the back brakes instead of holding the pressure to the fronts.
Any input is appreciated.

The only line lock we use is the Hurst Roll Control--it can take tons of line pressure and will never give any trouble--all of the other brands I have used share one fault--if you really push the pedal very hard and put an extra amount of pressure on them they can't release right-I think the spring is not strong enough in them-I have also had issues bleeding all brands except the Hurst. It is the best and seen on many winning NHRA and IHRA cars. oh..and it is rebuildable

Mine is the Hurst too.

I run the Hurst too. The only problem I have had, is the fluid returns into the master cylinder under so much pressure upon release, that some fluid will come out the vents in the caps. I have to keep a rag zip tied over the caps to keep fluid from dripping. Is it possible that yours has done this and the level gotten so low that you could have gotten air in the system?? I did have quite a hassle getting ALL the air out of my system in the past.

sounds like master cylinder to me??

Never seen one “fail” like that. I seen them stick on and not release also never engage, but never seen one that required more fluid to operate.
Sounds like air or a internal leak at the master cylinder.

Joe

you said wilwood brakes? as in 4-piston calipers?

maybe a bent rotor? as it rotates it wobbles and pushes the pads/pistons away from the rotor, so your first pump is used up pushing them back out?

I just had this issue on my viper brakes, pedal felt fine, no wobble, probably because the wobble was absorbed by fluid moving back and forth from side to side on the caliper, and no real feedback was coming back up the lines to the master cylinder, but once pressure was released, the pads and pistons were free to be pushed back into the caliper.

I put a dial indicator on mine and had .030 of rotor wobble! that's .030" time 4 pistons!

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sounds like master cylinder to me??

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I had one go bad last year, it would slowly loose pressure if you held it on like on the staring line and the other racers diddles around a lot after prestaging trying to make me stage first

I will check that! Ive had repeat bad masters, but its possible theres some more going on, I vacuum bled the brakes with a homemade nipple at the master today and the pedal feels alot better but while it was bleeding there was a ton of air bubbling IN the master for a long time, maybe pulling thru the MC piston seals? dont know, we'll try some more and post the results. This has to be fixed one way or another.

Check all your line connections. I had one loosen up for me. Aparently it was never tightened properly to start, but held enough to not notice it at first. Got that one tight and my brakes have been fine ever since.

I had one stick closed once. It ws a hurst unit. Replaced it w/Biondo, no problems since...

Found a cold solder joint on my button last week. Line lock only worked in drive. When I pulled the shifter back in to 2 or 1, the wire seperated and - no line lock. DUUUU.