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Thanks Mike! Of Course you have an answer. LOL. I should have just PM'd ya! What size of diameter should I be looking at? 7/8" or 1-1/8"??

-Kenny

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I ordered the 1 1/8 to put on a customers chassis
but if yours doesnt twist or roll over alot, the
smaller bar is fine(thats what I put on my race car)

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Yes, leaf spring cars run them to. Do a google search. The fastest cars in the country are running them with good results. I have one on my 70' Challenger. Not the best picture but it is all I have right now for a picture of the set up.

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Yes, leaf spring cars run them to. Do a google search. The fastest cars in the country are running them with good results. I have one on my 70' Challenger. Not the best picture but it is all I have right now for a picture of the set up.

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Don't get me wrong, I am sure it will have the same effect as it does on our four link car, but is it needed? We needed it because we had nothing to control roll the higher up we chipped it.

It also doesn't look like your fully tubbed. I would never be able to fit it on my E-body with mono's and Caltrac's. Heck, the wheelie bars barely clear. And on our A-body, there isn't any room for wheelie bars. Thankfully we don't need them, but the anti-roll bar works very well.

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Thanks for the picture! I mounted my shocks almost exactly the same way, so I could probably do something similar to your anti-roll bar.



-Kenny

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I like to use brackets for multi purpose use so I
would weld the axle anti roll brackets to the back
of the link brackets(forward of the shocks)...JMO

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Yes, leaf spring cars run them to. Do a google search. The fastest cars in the country are running them with good results. I have one on my 70' Challenger. Not the best picture but it is all I have right now for a picture of the set up.

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Don't get me wrong, I am sure it will have the same effect as it does on our four link car, but is it needed? We needed it because we had nothing to control roll the higher up we chipped it.

It also doesn't look like your fully tubbed. I would never be able to fit it on my E-body with mono's and Caltrac's. Heck, the wheelie bars barely clear. And on our A-body, there isn't any room for wheelie bars. Thankfully we don't need them, but the anti-roll bar works very well.

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I make it mandatory to put one on a 4 link if I'm
building the chassis

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Yeah, and with the leaf link set up under the car, the only thing that is holding it somewhat straight, is the back segment of the 6 cylinder leaf springs.

Another thing I noticed watching my videos from each side of the car, The passenger side squats as soon as the trans brake is let go. The body immediately drops. From the drivers side the diff seems to fall out of the car, until the shock tops out, and yanks the back end down. My link bars are set the same side. My instant center SHOULD be the same on both sides of the car. I guess as the power hits, it is twisting the car, thus moving the instant center on the driver side above the anti squat line, and putting the passenger side further under the anti squat line. Am I on the right track? I would assume an anti-roll bar is going to keep the instant center more constant side to side when the power is applied no?

I have the front segment of my stock leafs clamped with an extra 3/8" thick leaf added to the front segment. If I unclamp this added leaf, It will drop the back of the car down another 3/4-1" lower, thus putting my instant center lower than it currently is under the anti-squat line. The leaf spring does not need to be clamped anymore for strength, I did the extra leaf years ago when none of the leaf link stuff was on the car. Unlike the original leaf link design, I have added a bar that runs along the top of the leaf from my diff mount plate, to the front spring eye. If you look close in the pictures i have posted, The leaf is not twisted at all because the bottom bar is taking all of the hit.








-Kenny

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I make it mandatory to put one on a 4 link if I'm
building the chassis

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Yeah, and with the leaf link set up under the car, the only thing that is holding it somewhat straight, is the back segment of the 6 cylinder leaf springs.

Another thing I noticed watching my videos from each side of the car, The passenger side squats as soon as the trans brake is let go. The body immediately drops. From the drivers side the diff seems to fall out of the car, until the shock tops out, and yanks the back end down. My link bars are set the same side. My instant center SHOULD be the same on both sides of the car. I guess as the power hits, it is twisting the car, thus moving the instant center on the driver side above the anti squat line, and putting the passenger side further under the anti squat line. Am I on the right track? I would assume an anti-roll bar is going to keep the instant center more constant side to side when the power is applied no?

I have the front segment of my stock leafs clamped with an extra 3/8" thick leaf added to the front segment. If I unclamp this added leaf, It will drop the back of the car down another 3/4-1" lower, thus putting my instant center lower than it currently is under the anti-squat line. The leaf spring does not need to be clamped anymore for strength, I did the extra leaf years ago when none of the leaf link stuff was on the car. Unlike the original leaf link design, I have added a bar that runs along the top of the leaf from my diff mount plate, to the front spring eye. If you look close in the pictures i have posted, The leaf is not twisted at all because the bottom bar is taking all of the hit.

-Kenny

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The axle is trying to roll around the drive shaft...
the right side is trying to lift up and the drivers
side is dropping out... I'm sure thats what your seeing
plus some twisting in the body