Re: Voltage Regulator question
[Re: Andrewh]
#123791
09/20/08 11:51 PM
09/20/08 11:51 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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I'd clean all connections, ch to solid state version of the mechanical regulator(when you said 46A I assumed you have the early(pre 70), run a wire directly from starter relay to ammeter(add a fusible link in series) & another wire from alt battt stud to other ammeter terminal, To bypass the bulkhead problem area(Nacho are you awake). Many different additions & opinions on what to beef up the electrical problem.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Voltage Regulator question
[Re: oleman]
#123794
09/21/08 08:37 PM
09/21/08 08:37 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,314
Carstairs, Alberta, Canada
dave571
master
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master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,314
Carstairs, Alberta, Canada
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Quote:
This is in error!
"The regulator doesn't experience any of the amp output. It only see's system voltage."
The voltage regulator is the source of current that controls the output current for the alternator. It takes a stronger magnetic field on the rotor to produce the 100A therefor reguiring more rotor current. and more regulator current to produce 100A than 65A of output therefor the regulator has to be capable of passing more current.
BUT the standard regulator is probably capable of regulating the 65A and the 100A alternator. Use it, if it burns up get another!!
As the previous person said, bypass the original ampmeter and wiring.
Thing is marginal at 65A anyway
It's not an error. I was getting at the fact that the output of the alt does not go through the regulator.
Most alternator upgrades won't cause a dramatic change in the alternator field current because they are wound more efficiently than the old alternators were.
As you mentioned, there may be more current draw required, but the difference will be minimal if any.
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Re: Voltage Regulator question
[Re: oleman]
#123795
09/21/08 09:06 PM
09/21/08 09:06 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Quote:
This is in error!
"The regulator doesn't experience any of the amp output. It only see's system voltage."
The voltage regulator is the source of current that controls the output current for the alternator. It takes a stronger magnetic field on the rotor to produce the 100A therefor reguiring more rotor current. and more regulator current to produce 100A than 65A of output therefor the regulator has to be capable of passing more current.
BUT the standard regulator is probably capable of regulating the 65A and the 100A alternator. Use it, if it burns up get another!!
As the previous person said, bypass the original ampmeter and wiring.
Thing is marginal at 65A anyway
Actually what you posted is in error. I used to run the huge 100+ amp Chrysler big frame unit on my old Land Cruiser --for the 'wench' on the front. Those units use the very same '70 and up electronic regulator as any other '70's--80's Mopar Only difference is that they used to run a "field loads relay" to diminish voltage drop problems in the circuit.
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Re: Voltage Regulator question
#123796
09/22/08 08:38 AM
09/22/08 08:38 AM
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,822
Colorado
denfireguy
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,822
Colorado
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Quote:
Actually what you posted is in error. I used to run the huge 100+ amp Chrysler big frame unit on my old Land Cruiser --for the 'wench' on the front. Those units use the very same '70 and up electronic regulator as any other '70's--80's Mopar Only difference is that they used to run a "field loads relay" to diminish voltage drop problems in the circuit.
The additional amount of current draw is not in a straight line ratio with the current output. There is an amplification in the system where a 1 amp increase in output results in a .1 amp increase in field current (not sure of the exact numbers, never measured them). It WILL sap more horsepower from the engine at peak charge.
I had a 70 amp alternator stator and diodes in my 62 Valiant with mechanical regulator. I was using a two way radio that drew 30 Amps continuous on transmit. (Motorola FMTRU80D 100Watt FM dynamotor supplied if someone wants to look that up.) I never had an issue with the alternator/battery system after rebuilding. If you do put in the new stator in the old press fit diode back, use silver solder to attach the diodes or the joints will fail. Best bet is move up to the new flat back design and add a solid state regulator.
Craig
2014 Ram 1500 Laramie, 73 Cuda
Previous mopars: 62 Valiant, 65 Fury III, 68 Fury III, 72 Satellite, 74 Satellite, 89 Acclaim, 98 Caravan, 2003 Durango
Only previous Non-Mopar: Schwinn Tornado
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Re: Voltage Regulator question
[Re: denfireguy]
#123797
09/22/08 11:54 AM
09/22/08 11:54 AM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Gawd, an 80D. When I first got "on" UHF in the 70's at Miramar, I had a horrid GE TPL on 2 (80W) with a "preProg" GE on UHF
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Re: Voltage Regulator question
#123798
09/22/08 01:55 PM
09/22/08 01:55 PM
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,822
Colorado
denfireguy
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,822
Colorado
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Quote:
Gawd, an 80D. When I first got "on" UHF in the 70's at Miramar, I had a horrid GE TPL on 2 (80W) with a "preProg" GE on UHF
A T-power Prog replaced the 80D but in a 65 Fury III. Still drew a lot of current. Now using a FT857. My antenna on my Cuda will not pass muster with the jugdes as it is a disguised 5/8 wavelength 2 meter antenna made by Antenna specialists. It is several inches longer than the stock Mopar antenna but has the same base. I still have the old original antenna mount if I do decide to do shows seriously.
Craig
Last edited by denfireguy; 09/22/08 01:56 PM.
2014 Ram 1500 Laramie, 73 Cuda
Previous mopars: 62 Valiant, 65 Fury III, 68 Fury III, 72 Satellite, 74 Satellite, 89 Acclaim, 98 Caravan, 2003 Durango
Only previous Non-Mopar: Schwinn Tornado
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