Re: Bonding Hood Skin to Inner Frame
[Re: sixpaktoogo]
#1233135
05/15/12 12:45 AM
05/15/12 12:45 AM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,908
Franklinville,NJ
JeffsCustomPaint
master
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master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,908
Franklinville,NJ
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this is what you should use as it's made for that 3M Duramix NVH Dampening Material - 04274 http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-duramix-nvh-dampening-material-04274-p-16562.aspxIdeal 2-part urethane product for replacing factory NVH (Noise, Vibration & Harshness) sealants and foams. Can be applied between roof skins and roof bows, door skins and door intrusion beams or other areas using non-structural type foam materials, providing up to 1" thick layer of flexible material on vertical and overhead applications Can be applied to a thickness of 1 inch on vertical and overhead surfaces. Also may be applied over existing damping material as long as the original material is still integrally bonded. Remains very soft, yet sturdy and will not degrade. Work time: 60 Minutes @ 77° F Cure time: 24 Hours @ 77° F
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Re: Bonding Hood Skin to Inner Frame
[Re: chromedome426]
#1233136
05/15/12 04:40 PM
05/15/12 04:40 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,572
Jacksonville Florida
elitecustombody
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,572
Jacksonville Florida
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Quote:
I used windshield urethane on mine.
Bad idea 
Hoods,deck lids ,roofs and doors need something that stays soft yet still being able to stay bonded and be able to expand and contract in varying temperatures without causing ripples,waves and dimples in outer skin.
Do not use seam sealer or windshield urethane if you want your body panels to stay straight especially after months of sweat and blood in body & paint.
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Re: Bonding Hood Skin to Inner Frame
[Re: elitecustombody]
#1233137
05/15/12 07:09 PM
05/15/12 07:09 PM
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 636
California
sixpaktoogo
OP
mopar
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OP
mopar
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 636
California
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Quote:
Quote:
I used windshield urethane on mine.
Bad idea
Hoods,deck lids ,roofs and doors need something that stays soft yet still being able to stay bonded and be able to expand and contract in varying temperatures without causing ripples,waves and dimples in outer skin.
Do not use seam sealer or windshield urethane if you want your body panels to stay straight especially after months of sweat and blood in body & paint.
Do you have a suggestion? Must look stock. I know the bond material they use on the AMD hoods is soft and spongey - nothing like the original.
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Re: Bonding Hood Skin to Inner Frame
[Re: sixpaktoogo]
#1233138
05/15/12 07:22 PM
05/15/12 07:22 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,572
Jacksonville Florida
elitecustombody
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,572
Jacksonville Florida
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
I used windshield urethane on mine.
Bad idea
Hoods,deck lids ,roofs and doors need something that stays soft yet still being able to stay bonded and be able to expand and contract in varying temperatures without causing ripples,waves and dimples in outer skin.
Do not use seam sealer or windshield urethane if you want your body panels to stay straight especially after months of sweat and blood in body & paint.
Do you have a suggestion? Must look stock. I know the bond material they use on the AMD hoods is soft and spongey - nothing like the original.
I would use anti-flutter two-part foam ,but I'm not a numbers matching,correct overspray,factory markings type,so there is not much I can suggest. The factory stuff gets rock hard and falls out most of the time,that is why I would never use anything similar.
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Re: Bonding Hood Skin to Inner Frame
[Re: elitecustombody]
#1233139
05/15/12 07:26 PM
05/15/12 07:26 PM
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 636
California
sixpaktoogo
OP
mopar
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OP
mopar
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 636
California
|
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
I used windshield urethane on mine.
Bad idea
Hoods,deck lids ,roofs and doors need something that stays soft yet still being able to stay bonded and be able to expand and contract in varying temperatures without causing ripples,waves and dimples in outer skin.
Do not use seam sealer or windshield urethane if you want your body panels to stay straight especially after months of sweat and blood in body & paint.
Do you have a suggestion? Must look stock. I know the bond material they use on the AMD hoods is soft and spongey - nothing like the original.
I would use anti-flutter two-part foam ,but I'm mot a numbers matching,correct overspray,factory markings type,so there is not much I can suggest. The factory stuff gets rock hard and falls out most of the time,that is why I would never use anything similar.
I believe the original bonding material is the same that was used as seam sealer in the trunk, and on the quarter to roof seams, on cars with a vinyl top.
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Re: Bonding Hood Skin to Inner Frame
[Re: elitecustombody]
#1233140
05/16/12 06:40 PM
05/16/12 06:40 PM
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 936
OLD318
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 936
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
I used windshield urethane on mine.
Bad idea
Hoods,deck lids ,roofs and doors need something that stays soft yet still being able to stay bonded and be able to expand and contract in varying temperatures without causing ripples,waves and dimples in outer skin.
Do not use seam sealer or windshield urethane if you want your body panels to stay straight especially after months of sweat and blood in body & paint.
Do you have a suggestion? Must look stock. I know the bond material they use on the AMD hoods is soft and spongey - nothing like the original.
I would use anti-flutter two-part foam ,but I'm not a numbers matching,correct overspray,factory markings type,so there is not much I can suggest. The factory stuff gets rock hard and falls out most of the time,that is why I would never use anything similar.
Guys, Just so you know (this is from the LORD website directly),
the anti flutter foam is used for:
"LORD FusorŪ 121/124 flexible foam can be used for sound deadening,
sealing and filling of door skins to crash bar, hood panel to
supports, trunk panel to supports and gas tank filler area."
Just reading the description leads me to believe that this is
not intended to bond a skin(hood,door,trunk,roof etc) to a frame/brace.
The term "bonding" is not used anywhere in this description.
It's a filling, sound deadening, anti-flutter foam material that
expands inside of a void(brace etc) up to 10 times it's
original size. It is not suppose to warp/distort the outer (skin)panel in the process...
True, it is an anti-flutter, which means it should grab the
fluttering area (of the skin) that has come apart from its bond...
But... I don't think the intent for this is to be used as a
bonding agent...
I agree that windshield urethane is not the answer...
Bonding is one thing, anti-flutter is another...
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Re: Bonding Hood Skin to Inner Frame
[Re: OLD318]
#1233141
05/16/12 10:00 PM
05/16/12 10:00 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,572
Jacksonville Florida
elitecustombody
pro stock
|
pro stock
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,572
Jacksonville Florida
|
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
I used windshield urethane on mine.
Bad idea
Hoods,deck lids ,roofs and doors need something that stays soft yet still being able to stay bonded and be able to expand and contract in varying temperatures without causing ripples,waves and dimples in outer skin.
Do not use seam sealer or windshield urethane if you want your body panels to stay straight especially after months of sweat and blood in body & paint.
Do you have a suggestion? Must look stock. I know the bond material they use on the AMD hoods is soft and spongey - nothing like the original.
I would use anti-flutter two-part foam ,but I'm not a numbers matching,correct overspray,factory markings type,so there is not much I can suggest. The factory stuff gets rock hard and falls out most of the time,that is why I would never use anything similar.
Guys, Just so you know (this is from the LORD website directly),
the anti flutter foam is used for:
"LORD FusorŪ 121/124 flexible foam can be used for sound deadening,
sealing and filling of door skins to crash bar, hood panel to
supports, trunk panel to supports and gas tank filler area."
Just reading the description leads me to believe that this is
not intended to bond a skin(hood,door,trunk,roof etc) to a frame/brace.
The term "bonding" is not used anywhere in this description.
It's a filling, sound deadening, anti-flutter foam material that
expands inside of a void(brace etc) up to 10 times it's
original size. It is not suppose to warp/distort the outer (skin)panel in the process...
True, it is an anti-flutter, which means it should grab the
fluttering area (of the skin) that has come apart from its bond...
But... I don't think the intent for this is to be used as a
bonding agent...
I agree that windshield urethane is not the answer...
Bonding is one thing, anti-flutter is another...
Ughh.. You don't want it bonded. The outer skin has to be able to flex .This is why anti-flutter foam must be used.It has plenty of adhering properties when applied to clean substrate ,so it won't fall out. There are other names for it,and just about every brand has their version of this product.
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Re: Bonding Hood Skin to Inner Frame
[Re: elitecustombody]
#1233142
05/17/12 02:13 PM
05/17/12 02:13 PM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 409
PEI Canada
chromedome426
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 409
PEI Canada
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Quote:
Quote:
I used windshield urethane on mine.
Bad idea
Hoods,deck lids ,roofs and doors need something that stays soft yet still being able to stay bonded and be able to expand and contract in varying temperatures without causing ripples,waves and dimples in outer skin.
Do not use seam sealer or windshield urethane if you want your body panels to stay straight especially after months of sweat and blood in body & paint.
Just curious......did you actually try using windshield urethane and have problems or is it just something that you think might give me trouble?
From what I understand, windshield urethane has excellent bonding strength and is flexible enough to allow for thermal expansion which prevents windshields from exploding during temperature changes.
I also have a friend that used it to bond his hood about 4 years ago with no problems at all. Of course....his white car up in Canada isn't going to see the same heat that perhaps a black car in Florida would see. 
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Re: Bonding Hood Skin to Inner Frame
[Re: chromedome426]
#1233144
05/18/12 11:42 AM
05/18/12 11:42 AM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,572
Jacksonville Florida
elitecustombody
pro stock
|
pro stock
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,572
Jacksonville Florida
|
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
I used windshield urethane on mine.
Bad idea
Hoods,deck lids ,roofs and doors need something that stays soft yet still being able to stay bonded and be able to expand and contract in varying temperatures without causing ripples,waves and dimples in outer skin.
Do not use seam sealer or windshield urethane if you want your body panels to stay straight especially after months of sweat and blood in body & paint.
Just curious......did you actually try using windshield urethane and have problems or is it just something that you think might give me trouble?
From what I understand, windshield urethane has excellent bonding strength and is flexible enough to allow for thermal expansion which prevents windshields from exploding during temperature changes.
I also have a friend that used it to bond his hood about 4 years ago with no problems at all. Of course....his white car up in Canada isn't going to see the same heat that perhaps a black car in Florida would see.
To answer your question,no. I never tried using windshield urethane that is made for installing windshields to bond/glue hood,roof,door skin simply because it is not made for that type of application. Surely there are people who used Liquid Nails,silicone,bath tub caulk,Great Stuff,e.t.c. and they might even claim that it all worked. But truly,if all of those cars were done to a high quality standards,I guarantee that under certain lighting conditions and varying temperatures as well as age those bonded areas will show.
Bottom line is ,if you want piece of mind ,always use appropriate material that is developed for specific application and you won't have a problem.
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