I understand that a electric pump can work fine on the street. The problem I see with performance pumps is that the suction line usually is not big enough expecially with a stock tank. Lot's of guys struggle with electric fuel pumps because of the suction side is not big enough for all conditions.imo

Yes the key is circulation to keep the fuel cooler.

Yup spacers can and do help alot, but my point is. Properly setup and tuned they are not needed, imo.

I guess this thread isn't about a fuel delivery issue as much as it as about a fuel temp issue - although they can be some what related. Funny how this topic often pops up around this time of the year when stations are switching over from winter ( 14-16 RVP ) to sommer ( 8 - 10 RVP ) - expressed in PSI - blend. BTW, race gas is usually in the 5-7 RVP range, so not a problem. Cold climate areas also are the most effected as the change over has the biggest RVP swing. There aint no real good solutions for your high powered street machine, but here are some that may help. As said, a fuel return line system will help a little ( not for pre-soak issues though ). Dump your existing winter gas ( if your car has sat for a while ) and put it in the grocery getter ). Fill up from a station that is always busy - best chance to get summer fuel. Run a carb insulator type spacer. Lose those pretty stainless jacketed fuel lines and replace them with ANYTHING not covered with a steel braided jacket. Run the lines / regulator as far away from the engine as possible. Get the heat out of the engine bay. Run electric fans for a few minutes after shutdown - like at the gas pump while you are filling up or - raise the hood. Remove the inner fenderwell splash guards. Raise up the back of the hood an inch or two ( ala old school ). Run a 160 stat - if your system can stay on it - or no stat. Insulate your headers - and fuel lines. BTW, the fuel in the old Thermoquad ran about 10-15 degrees cooler with their plastic fuel bowls ( guess this problem has been around for a while ). Looks like the new Demon street carbs are trying to address it also. IMO, the biggest problem is heat trapped in the engine bay. What ever you can do to reduce it will be the biggest help in solving this problem.

I run a 1" plastic spacer and even put a heat shield under the carb to see if it helps. It only seems to do it after its hot and shut down for a few minutes you know a hot soak. Thats when it seems to happen. Never had any problems last year or ever before. Ron

Under extended WOT high speed conditions there is usually plenty of airflow in the engine bay and lots of fuel consumption keeping everything reasonably cool.

In other words, the exact opposite of what causes the issue