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I'd go with tubular uppers,big gain there,and some 1.1 T bars and if you have enough get the Bilstien shocks .You need the sway bars too thou. and you will transform to the next level.

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Here is what I'm starting with:
68 charger, 440/auto
-11.75 front disc conversion with A body spindles, stock drums in rear.
-rebuilt the front suspension with a poly kit a 10 years ago, but it has limited miles on it.
-.920 T bars, set to -2" from stock ride height
-factory front sway bar stock with new bushings
-KYB's all around
-Stock untouched (non r/t spec) rear leafs with 1" lowering blocks
- NO rear bar at this time
-US cartool welded in subframe connectors
-Firm Feel Stage 2 power steering box
-18x9.5 rear,295/45 tires
-17x8 front,245/45 tires
-I forget the current alignment specs, but I do remember the guy saying he was able to get 1 degree positive caster out of it. I remember after the alignment the car was light years better , prob due to caster. Before that it was all over the road.

I just bought a set of hotchkis rear leafs because I saw them on amazon for 385 with free shipping.
I'd have loved to have been able to trot out into the yard, shake the money tree, and order up an alterKtion or a full TVS kit, but I can't. I've been working like madman for the last few weeks doing lots of side work and managed to squirrel away a decent amount.

The car drives ok for what it is, but I want to take it to the next level. I won't be competing in autocross anytime soon, but i'd like to be able to drive it aggressively, have more highway stability, take off ramps faster... and an overall more modern ride.

After buying the rear springs, I now have a budget of $1000.00 and I feel that I already have a sound foundation and I have some ideas what I want to put the money towards, but I was looking for other input. I was thinking bilstien shocks and bigger T bars, tubular upper control arms, adj torsion bars, upgraded tie rod sleeves, larger front swaybar. I know I can't do all that for a grand, but I can knock out 2 or 3 of the big ones.

I don't expect corvette handling, but i'd be happy if it handled as well as my '09 Pontiac G8

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Here is what I'm starting with:
68 charger, 440/auto
-11.75 front disc conversion with A body spindles, stock drums in rear.
-rebuilt the front suspension with a poly kit a 10 years ago, but it has limited miles on it.
-.920 T bars, set to -2" from stock ride height
-factory front sway bar stock with new bushings
-KYB's all around
-Stock untouched (non r/t spec) rear leafs with 1" lowering blocks
- NO rear bar at this time
-US cartool welded in subframe connectors
-Firm Feel Stage 2 power steering box
-18x9.5 rear,295/45 tires
-17x8 front,245/45 tires
-I forget the current alignment specs, but I do remember the guy saying he was able to get 1 degree positive caster out of it. I remember after the alignment the car was light years better , prob due to caster. Before that it was all over the road.

I just bought a set of hotchkis rear leafs because I saw them on amazon for 385 with free shipping.
I'd have loved to have been able to trot out into the yard, shake the money tree, and order up an alterKtion or a full TVS kit, but I can't. I've been working like madman for the last few weeks doing lots of side work and managed to squirrel away a decent amount.

The car drives ok for what it is, but I want to take it to the next level. I won't be competing in autocross anytime soon, but i'd like to be able to drive it aggressively, have more highway stability, take off ramps faster... and an overall more modern ride.

After buying the rear springs, I now have a budget of $1000.00 and I feel that I already have a sound foundation and I have some ideas what I want to put the money towards, but I was looking for other input. I was thinking bilstien shocks and bigger T bars, tubular upper control arms, adj torsion bars, upgraded tie rod sleeves, larger front swaybar. I know I can't do all that for a grand, but I can knock out 2 or 3 of the big ones.

I don't expect corvette handling, but i'd be happy if it handled as well as my '09 Pontiac G8

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*Hellwig hollow ($226) or Hotchkis hollow ($262) or Firm Feel solid ($275) front sway bar

*Bilstein shocks ($359)

*Moog offset upper control arm bushings. (~$50) but could be ($50+) to have someone press them in for you. Then align to 3-4 degrees positive caster. And maybe 1 deg neg camber. This is not a daily driver, correct? And you are looking for max handling and willing to sacrifice some cushy ride?

*Maybe Hellwig ($228) or Hotchkis ($307) adjustable rear sway bar. But that's if you feel the car understeering. Problem is you don't really know that until you add a rear bar to try and feel the difference.

If you want to go $200 over budget or wait on the rear sway bar...If you shop hard I think you'd find some 1.03" front Torsion Bars for around $200.

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seems like the general consensus is bilstiens, larger swaybar, 1.0 or larger Tbars, and tubular uppers... The $1500.00 question would have been a better thread title. I can make that happen. and about my toothpick Tbars.... I know, I know, so small...I had the stock 318 bars and when I did the suspension the first time I ordered a set that were the same size as would have come on a real R/T...I think. To tell the truth, now I'm not sure what size they are.

I looked through my stash and I already have a set of the reinforcing plates for the stock lower control arms. I want to retain my front mounted calipers so should I get the firm feel front bar that's for cars that never had a swaybar? I'm not sure how FF wants you to mount the swaybar tabs for that bar. Picture looks like they bolt to something. since I'll have the lower arms out so my friend can weld the plates on, is it worth it to use the FF nylon bushings?

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seems like the general consensus is bilstiens, larger swaybar, 1.0 or larger Tbars, and tubular uppers... The $1500.00 question would have been a better thread title. I can make that happen. and about my toothpick Tbars.... I know, I know, so small...I had the stock 318 bars and when I did the suspension the first time I ordered a set that were the same size as would have come on a real R/T...I think. To tell the truth, now I'm not sure what size they are.

I looked through my stash and I already have a set of the reinforcing plates for the stock lower control arms. I want to retain my front mounted calipers so should I get the firm feel front bar that's for cars that never had a swaybar? I'm not sure how FF wants you to mount the swaybar tabs for that bar. Picture looks like they bolt to something. since I'll have the lower arms out so my friend can weld the plates on, is it worth it to use the FF nylon bushings?

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Bilstiens, larger swaybar, 1.0 or larger T-bars are more bang for you buck than the tubular uppers.

Wait on the tubular UCA's until you get more budget $$$.

Do you have a factory sway bar on there now with factory sway bar tabbed LCA's? The Firm Feel front bar that attaches to the factory sway bar tabbed LCA's can't be used with front mounted calipers. But Firm Feel offers another front bar that has the end link attach to the shock bolt area that allows room for front mounted calipers.

I'd mount the calipers in the rear. But you'll have to get different brake lines. But then you'd be able to get a hollow (Hotchkis/Hellwig) lighter sway bar.

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I was doing some more digging and when I bought my lower control arm reinforcing plates, I also bought a set of moog offset bushings. It's like christmas in may over here. I bought this stuff so long ago that I forgot I had it lol..

I have the dumbest question ever.... The bushings are in a box and there's two of them in there... not 2 sets totaling 4 bushings, but 1 set totaling 2 bushings. I found the receipt from mancini and went to their site and it doesn't say if 1 or 2 sets per car is needed. So, do you use one bushing per side or do I have to get another set and use 2 per side?

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seems like the general consensus is bilstiens, larger swaybar, 1.0 or larger Tbars, and tubular uppers... The $1500.00 question would have been a better thread title. I can make that happen. and about my toothpick Tbars.... I know, I know, so small...I had the stock 318 bars and when I did the suspension the first time I ordered a set that were the same size as would have come on a real R/T...I think. To tell the truth, now I'm not sure what size they are.

I looked through my stash and I already have a set of the reinforcing plates for the stock lower control arms. I want to retain my front mounted calipers so should I get the firm feel front bar that's for cars that never had a swaybar? I'm not sure how FF wants you to mount the swaybar tabs for that bar. Picture looks like they bolt to something. since I'll have the lower arms out so my friend can weld the plates on, is it worth it to use the FF nylon bushings?

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Bilstiens, larger swaybar, 1.0 or larger T-bars are more bang for you buck than the tubular uppers.

Wait on the tubular UCA's until you get more budget $$$.

Do you have a factory sway bar on there now with factory sway bar tabbed LCA's? The Firm Feel front bar that attaches to the factory sway bar tabbed LCA's can't be used with front mounted calipers. But Firm Feel offers another front bar that has the end link attach to the shock bolt area that allows room for front mounted calipers.

I'd mount the calipers in the rear. But you'll have to get different brake lines. But then you'd be able to get a hollow (Hotchkis/Hellwig) lighter sway bar.

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Yes, original sway bar car with tabbed LCA's. I was planning to get the firm feel bar that's for cars without factory bar.

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Hotchkiss rear springs installed! Car feels much better and i havent even started on the front yet. Work has been good to me since i started this thread soill be getying firm feel uppers, front swaybr, tbars, and bilsteins..

My old springs were untouched from 68 and they wwere beat, bushing shot. Since i run lowering block and 18's in the rear with 45 series tires, i was getting some rubbing....its way less now and im going to trim that hump in the outer wheelhouse near the fender lip. Thats the only spot that rubs.. im still running the 1" block i ran with the old springs and the car is llloooooowwwwww....

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It's definitely lower than before, but not by much. I don't know how familiar you are with the B body wheel well, but there's a squared off area near the top on the outside that doesn't follow the natural contour of the rest of the wheel well. Thats the only point of contact.


Right now, I'm feeling that as much as I love the way it looks, I'll probably end up having to take the blocks out, reshape the patch, and do the drivers side too.

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It's definitely lower than before, but not by much. I don't know how familiar you are with the B body wheel well, but there's a squared off area near the top on the outside that doesn't follow the natural contour of the rest of the wheel well. Thats the only point of contact.


Right now, I'm feeling that as much as I love the way it looks, I'll probably end up having to take the blocks out, reshape the patch, and do the drivers side too.

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I have had the same problem. I think that the only Charger owners that know about this are the guys with lowered cars with wide tires!
I have thought about cutting and modifying that area on my car.

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What tire size/rear springs/bushings are you runnning? If I'm not mistaken, it's similar to mine, 295/45/18. Right now, I have @2" of sidewall showing below the wheel lip. Looks like you have just a bit more.

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