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Question on electrolysis #1216843
04/16/12 09:54 AM
04/16/12 09:54 AM
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Athens, Greece
Pyper70 Offline OP
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I have the sacrificial anodes but I am trying to figure out where to install them. I can probably pull a plug from the engine block and install an anode there but if I ever have to replace it or check it, it will be a PITA to get to. I can put it at the bottom of the radiator but again, I won't be able to see if its time to replace it. I see that they make a radiator cap which acts as a sacrificial anode. Any ideas where I could put the anodes or should I get this radiator cap?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sacrificial-Anod...#ht_3427wt_1163


Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
Re: Question on electrolysis [Re: Pyper70] #1216844
04/16/12 10:10 AM
04/16/12 10:10 AM
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JohnRR Offline
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There are 2 water drains on the side of the block .. 1/4 NPT , put one in each and get the cap .

Re: Question on electrolysis [Re: JohnRR] #1216845
04/16/12 10:21 AM
04/16/12 10:21 AM
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Pyper70 Offline OP
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Thanks John....How long you think the anode's will last? Will I get 10 years out of them?


Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
Re: Question on electrolysis [Re: Pyper70] #1216846
04/16/12 10:36 AM
04/16/12 10:36 AM
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JohnRR Offline
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Quote:

Thanks John....How long you think the anode's will last? Will I get 10 years out of them?




That I can't answer but I doubt 10. I replaced them every year in my boat , probably could have gone 2 ...

Re: Question on electrolysis [Re: JohnRR] #1216847
04/16/12 10:39 AM
04/16/12 10:39 AM
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Athens, Greece
Pyper70 Offline OP
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Ouch....I only get 500-1000 miles per year...Hopefully I can something better.


Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
Re: Question on electrolysis [Re: Pyper70] #1216848
04/16/12 11:20 AM
04/16/12 11:20 AM
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Pyper70 Offline OP
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I looked at my spare block and the two spots you mentioned barely have any room behind them. I can probably fit one finger between the block and the cylinder wall.

I did find another spot if it would work right...The rear of the block where the cam bearing is has enough room for a 2" anode and has 1/8 NPT, usually the sensor for the water temp goes here. I have mine in there but I depend on my Autometer gauge from the water pump. Being that this position is between the two cylinder heads...would it work better?

I plan on buying the radiator cap anode as well.


Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
Re: Question on electrolysis [Re: Pyper70] #1216849
04/16/12 12:00 PM
04/16/12 12:00 PM
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JohnRR Offline
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Quote:

I looked at my spare block and the two spots you mentioned barely have any room behind them. I can probably fit one finger between the block and the cylinder wall.

I did find another spot if it would work right...The rear of the block where the cam bearing is has enough room for a 2" anode and has 1/8 NPT, usually the sensor for the water temp goes here. I have mine in there but I depend on my Autometer gauge from the water pump. Being that this position is between the two cylinder heads...would it work better?

I plan on buying the radiator cap anode as well.




Didn't realize it was that tight at those points ?

The REAR of the block next to the came bearings ? The only NPT ports back there are the main oil galleys , you can't use those .

I guess you could use the spare ports in the water pump housing .

Why are you installing these ?

Re: Question on electrolysis [Re: JohnRR] #1216850
04/16/12 01:38 PM
04/16/12 01:38 PM
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Pyper70 Offline OP
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Quote:


The REAR of the block next to the came bearings ? The only NPT ports back there are the main oil galleys , you can't use those .

I guess you could use the spare ports in the water pump housing .

Why are you installing these ?




Not exactly at the rear inside the bell housing...Above where the water temp sending unit is. It looks like a bell.

As to why...Installing Eddy Heads and an aluminum water pump & housing....Something has to be eaten over time and I prefer to have a sacrificial lamb in the system

7167211-Rear505.jpg (16 downloads)

Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
Re: Question on electrolysis [Re: Pyper70] #1216851
04/16/12 02:41 PM
04/16/12 02:41 PM
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JohnRR Offline
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Good thinking I guess , use the cap , I have never seen a sacrifical anode stuck in anything other than boats by an OEM ...

That's not water , that's were the OIL pressure sensor screws in , the other plug is oil also .

Re: Question on electrolysis [Re: JohnRR] #1216852
04/16/12 02:53 PM
04/16/12 02:53 PM
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Marysville, O-H-I-O
70Cuda383 Offline
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Quote:

Good thinking I guess , use the cap , I have never seen a sacrifical anode stuck in anything other than boats by an OEM ...

That's not water , that's were the OIL pressure sensor screws in , the other plug is oil also .




yup.

if you think that's a water jacket, then leave a plug out of it, remove your distributor, and spin the oil pump shaft with a drill.

let me know how long it takes you to change your mind about that being a water jacket


and yea, that port (either one really) is where the oil pressure sending unit goes. I've only seen factory water temp sensors in the water pump housing on big blocks, and in the intake manifold cross over by the thermostat on small blocks


**Photobucket sucks**
Re: Question on electrolysis [Re: 70Cuda383] #1216853
04/16/12 03:18 PM
04/16/12 03:18 PM
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Athens, Greece
Pyper70 Offline OP
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Uhh....Brain fart?

OOPS!

I honestly thought that was the water temp sending unit...Geez I am gettin old...I haven't touched my engine in like...a year...

Guess its going to be just a Rad Cap then and I'll keep replacing that when it goes south.


Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
Re: Question on electrolysis [Re: Pyper70] #1216854
04/16/12 05:14 PM
04/16/12 05:14 PM
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Ontario.Canada
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can.al Offline
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..i read that a voltage test between your neg bat terminal
and coolant(carefully insert your meter pos lead in coolant only)
less than .1 volt and your o.k.(vehicle running w/some elec load)
.should not use the ground on the rad if alum.

Re: Question on electrolysis [Re: can.al] #1216855
04/16/12 05:43 PM
04/16/12 05:43 PM
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Pyper70 Offline OP
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Quote:

..i read that a voltage test between your neg bat terminal
and coolant(carefully insert your meter pos lead in coolant only)
less than .1 volt and your o.k.(vehicle running w/some elec load)
.should not use the ground on the rad if alum.




Never heard of that...be interesting to try....My radiator isn't aluminum. Just the stock 4-row radiator


Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
Re: Question on electrolysis [Re: Pyper70] #1216856
04/16/12 05:56 PM
04/16/12 05:56 PM
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Andrewh Offline
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that tests shows you if you have conductivity in your coolant.

dissimilar metals in a current carrying conductor cause corrosion.

if your coolant is new/clean and you used di water to fill it, then it won't carry a current, and it minimizes the corrosion or prevents it.

as soon as you get build up in the coolant and it will carry a charge, you start eating something.

I put mine in the block, but in a sm, so not sure how much room you have compared to me.
I had to cut the zinc so it would fit, so about half the size of what I bought.

have not checked it yet. been about 2 maybe 3 years since I put it in.

need to drain and refil this year and will check it then.

Re: Question on electrolysis [Re: Andrewh] #1216857
04/16/12 06:14 PM
04/16/12 06:14 PM
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Not2farfromNashville, TN
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360 in my van has an aluminum water pump, and intake. No problems in over 150K.


"The only thing to do for triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing"

"NUNQUAM NON PARATUS!"
Re: Question on electrolysis [Re: Rug_Trucker] #1216858
04/16/12 06:17 PM
04/16/12 06:17 PM
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Andrewh Offline
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Quote:

360 in my van has an aluminum water pump, and intake. No problems in over 150K.




how do you know?
how often do you change the coolant?

neither of those is thin material, like a radiator, but still have you looked inside either one?

Re: Question on electrolysis [Re: Andrewh] #1216859
04/16/12 06:33 PM
04/16/12 06:33 PM
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135sohc Offline
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Just about everything today and for the past 20 yrs now has aluminum/plastic radiators. They usually rot from the outside in due to salt/atmospheric conditions. Cut open lots when scrapping them and they might be clogged but not eaten away.

Chrysler started using aluminum extensively w/2.2 and we dont have corrosion issues (block is cast iron, everything else is aluminum)unless the coolant is totally rancid.

Re: Question on electrolysis [Re: Andrewh] #1216860
04/16/12 06:43 PM
04/16/12 06:43 PM
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Not2farfromNashville, TN
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Quote:

Quote:

360 in my van has an aluminum water pump, and intake. No problems in over 150K.




how do you know?
how often do you change the coolant?

neither of those is thin material, like a radiator, but still have you looked inside either one?




Swapped the heads at 125K. Intake was fine. I do know when installing my water pumps I use Neversieze on the bolts.


"The only thing to do for triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing"

"NUNQUAM NON PARATUS!"






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