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Inexpensive Magnaflux Kit for Checking Blocks at Home? #1210932
04/06/12 02:22 PM
04/06/12 02:22 PM
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San Antonio, Tx
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bulletpruf Offline OP
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Fellas -

Getting tired of paying $50 per block for magnafluxing. I have 4 blocks, two pairs of heads, and three cranks at the machine shop now getting cleaned and magged (maybe $300 worth of magnafluxing?). Thinking about telling them not to worry about magging the blocks and just picking up a setup to do it at home.

I have zero experience here; anyone have any recommendations on what to use? Dye? Magnetic particles? All the stuff I have at the shop now is iron, but I do have a few engines that run aluminum heads, so I'd like to have that capability, too, but understand that it might be two different methods.

Thanks

Scott


Please Check Out My YouTube Channel for Vintage Musclecar and Truck Rescues and Builds -- https://www.youtube.com/@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE/videos
Re: Inexpensive Magnaflux Kit for Checking Blocks at Home? [Re: bulletpruf] #1210933
04/06/12 04:01 PM
04/06/12 04:01 PM
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Delray beach, Florida
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ferrous and no ferrous metals need different methods to check for cracks.
my guess is when you find out how much it costs just for the proper equipment to mag a block properly, you'll be happy to pay your machinist to do it. the other side of that, is that without the expertise to actually detect a crack, (aside from the gaping type) you may unknowingly miss the hard to detect cracks.
i wouldn't want to add up the money i've spent to be able to detect cracks in crankshafts, blocks, heads, (both aluminum and cast iron) etc. but i know it's several thousand dollars.


machine shop owner and engine builder
Re: Inexpensive Magnaflux Kit for Checking Blocks at Home? [Re: Performance Only] #1210934
04/06/12 06:02 PM
04/06/12 06:02 PM
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 773
San Antonio, Tx
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bulletpruf Offline OP
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Quote:

ferrous and no ferrous metals need different methods to check for cracks.
my guess is when you find out how much it costs just for the proper equipment to mag a block properly, you'll be happy to pay your machinist to do it. the other side of that, is that without the expertise to actually detect a crack, (aside from the gaping type) you may unknowingly miss the hard to detect cracks.
i wouldn't want to add up the money i've spent to be able to detect cracks in crankshafts, blocks, heads, (both aluminum and cast iron) etc. but i know it's several thousand dollars.




I've probably spent over $1,000 on various blocks, heads, and cranks myself. That's exactly why I'd like to start doing it myself. It can't be too darn expensive to get outfitted.

Thanks

Scott


Please Check Out My YouTube Channel for Vintage Musclecar and Truck Rescues and Builds -- https://www.youtube.com/@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE/videos
Re: Inexpensive Magnaflux Kit for Checking Blocks at Home? [Re: bulletpruf] #1210935
04/06/12 06:19 PM
04/06/12 06:19 PM
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Quote:



I've probably spent over $1,000 on various blocks, heads, and cranks myself. That's exactly why I'd like to start doing it myself. It can't be too darn expensive to get outfitted.

Thanks

Scott





only if you buy the right equipment.


machine shop owner and engine builder
Re: Inexpensive Magnaflux Kit for Checking Blocks at Home? [Re: Performance Only] #1210936
04/06/12 07:03 PM
04/06/12 07:03 PM
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 382
Roseville MN
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72swgnr Offline
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My line of work is Non Destructive Testing. I deal with penetrant, ultrasonics,mag, xray everyday, I've seen how a couple shops do mag and I was shocked. They used dry mag on a iron head and just threw the powder on . Also the fact that they used dry powder If you want to start doing your own stuff you will need the following:

A name brand black light $1000-$1500 bucks
14am magnaglow around $250-$300 per case (9 cans I believe)
a good yoke AC is all you need they come in both AC and DC (havent priced one in awhile) but figure +500 bucks+

Now for your aluminum needs

you will need a Visible dye penetrant kit for the easy stuff
Penetrant, Cleaner and Developer Not sure on the price of this if you go by the case you're looking at $500-$600 I'm guessing

to find any hairline cracks you will want to use zyglo which is a flourescent penetrant, The easiest way to do this is have a dedicated wash tank (water with a water hose attached. Limit your pressure to 20-30psi and have a sprayer thats set more as a mist not a stream.

zyglow is expensive I know we get it by the barrel and its 5-6 grand

and there are different types such as water washable, post emulsified etc. Make sure that you get the water washable stuff ZL67 works real well.

You may beable to look around and find some of the stuff cheaper but If you were to jump in and get into doing it yourself you will probably be looking at a $3000 dollar startup cost.

Re: Inexpensive Magnaflux Kit for Checking Blocks at Home? [Re: 72swgnr] #1210937
04/06/12 07:10 PM
04/06/12 07:10 PM
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 12,013
Finally a HUSKER again
Moparnut426 Offline
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When I went to College, part of the welding and metallurgy classes was hou to properly LDP test for cracks, and to MAG them if magnetic, ferrous, The LDP, or liquid dye pennetrant type is just as dificult to do properly as the MAG type. but I can tell you after taking the test to become a certified weld inspector its a real pain in the ass to master. If the cleaner is put on too heavy, it wont evaporate properly, and when the dye is sprayed on the cleaner will thinn out the dye, then when the developer is sprayed over the dye it bleeds out making a HUGE mess. but I got good enough to inspect cranks, bell housings, blocks, heads, intake manifolds, and even did an Oliver tractor belly pan thats cast iron. I personally like useing the LDP on all metals just because Im more familiar with it. The red dust used in the MAG type seemed to make me cough, and sneeze when used, so I stay away from that stuff.

Non destructive testing is an art in its self, and if you have the chance to take a class at a local tech school I highly recomend it. The radiographing was a whole other ball game!!!


Re: Inexpensive Magnaflux Kit for Checking Blocks at Home? [Re: Moparnut426] #1210938
04/06/12 07:34 PM
04/06/12 07:34 PM
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 382
Roseville MN
7
72swgnr Offline
enthusiast
72swgnr  Offline
enthusiast
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 382
Roseville MN
Quote:

When I went to College, part of the welding and metallurgy classes was hou to properly LDP test for cracks, and to MAG them if magnetic, ferrous, The LDP, or liquid dye pennetrant type is just as dificult to do properly as the MAG type. but I can tell you after taking the test to become a certified weld inspector its a real pain in the ass to master. If the cleaner is put on too heavy, it wont evaporate properly, and when the dye is sprayed on the cleaner will thinn out the dye, then when the developer is sprayed over the dye it bleeds out making a HUGE mess. but I got good enough to inspect cranks, bell housings, blocks, heads, intake manifolds, and even did an Oliver tractor belly pan thats cast iron. I personally like useing the LDP on all metals just because Im more familiar with it. The red dust used in the MAG type seemed to make me cough, and sneeze when used, so I stay away from that stuff.

Non destructive testing is an art in its self, and if you have the chance to take a class at a local tech school I highly recomend it. The radiographing was a whole other ball game!!!







Little off topic but It's always fun when you get a young cocky welder or even an older guy who hasnt had to deal with NDT much tell you that all their welds are perfect and theres no point in inspecting them. There's been MANY times that we have radiographed or UT'd the weld and found it to be bad according to what code they were welding to. I've seen guys throw stuff, argue or get up and quit because we had found their welds bad.


Back on topic I forgot to mention that the 14AM is a flourescent spray that has iron particles in it used for magnafluxing. It is MUCH more sensitive than dry particles and easier to use IMO.

Re: Inexpensive Magnaflux Kit for Checking Blocks at Home? [Re: 72swgnr] #1210939
04/06/12 09:14 PM
04/06/12 09:14 PM
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 773
San Antonio, Tx
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bulletpruf Offline OP
super stock
bulletpruf  Offline OP
super stock
B

Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 773
San Antonio, Tx
Quote:

My line of work is Non Destructive Testing. I deal with penetrant, ultrasonics,mag, xray everyday, I've seen how a couple shops do mag and I was shocked. They used dry mag on a iron head and just threw the powder on . Also the fact that they used dry powder If you want to start doing your own stuff you will need the following:

A name brand black light $1000-$1500 bucks
14am magnaglow around $250-$300 per case (9 cans I believe)
a good yoke AC is all you need they come in both AC and DC (havent priced one in awhile) but figure +500 bucks+

Now for your aluminum needs

you will need a Visible dye penetrant kit for the easy stuff
Penetrant, Cleaner and Developer Not sure on the price of this if you go by the case you're looking at $500-$600 I'm guessing

to find any hairline cracks you will want to use zyglo which is a flourescent penetrant, The easiest way to do this is have a dedicated wash tank (water with a water hose attached. Limit your pressure to 20-30psi and have a sprayer thats set more as a mist not a stream.

zyglow is expensive I know we get it by the barrel and its 5-6 grand

and there are different types such as water washable, post emulsified etc. Make sure that you get the water washable stuff ZL67 works real well.

You may beable to look around and find some of the stuff cheaper but If you were to jump in and get into doing it yourself you will probably be looking at a $3000 dollar startup cost.




Great info! Just what I was looking for! A bit more than I had hoped, so I'll go with the machine shop for now.

Thanks again,

Scott


Please Check Out My YouTube Channel for Vintage Musclecar and Truck Rescues and Builds -- https://www.youtube.com/@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE/videos
Re: Inexpensive Magnaflux Kit for Checking Blocks at Home? [Re: 72swgnr] #1210940
04/09/12 09:36 AM
04/09/12 09:36 AM
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 12,013
Finally a HUSKER again
Moparnut426 Offline
I Live Here
Moparnut426  Offline
I Live Here

Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 12,013
Finally a HUSKER again
Quote:

Quote:

When I went to College, part of the welding and metallurgy classes was hou to properly LDP test for cracks, and to MAG them if magnetic, ferrous, The LDP, or liquid dye pennetrant type is just as dificult to do properly as the MAG type. but I can tell you after taking the test to become a certified weld inspector its a real pain in the ass to master. If the cleaner is put on too heavy, it wont evaporate properly, and when the dye is sprayed on the cleaner will thinn out the dye, then when the developer is sprayed over the dye it bleeds out making a HUGE mess. but I got good enough to inspect cranks, bell housings, blocks, heads, intake manifolds, and even did an Oliver tractor belly pan thats cast iron. I personally like useing the LDP on all metals just because Im more familiar with it. The red dust used in the MAG type seemed to make me cough, and sneeze when used, so I stay away from that stuff.

Non destructive testing is an art in its self, and if you have the chance to take a class at a local tech school I highly recomend it. The radiographing was a whole other ball game!!!







Little off topic but It's always fun when you get a young cocky welder or even an older guy who hasnt had to deal with NDT much tell you that all their welds are perfect and theres no point in inspecting them. There's been MANY times that we have radiographed or UT'd the weld and found it to be bad according to what code they were welding to. I've seen guys throw stuff, argue or get up and quit because we had found their welds bad.


Back on topic I forgot to mention that the 14AM is a flourescent spray that has iron particles in it used for magnafluxing. It is MUCH more sensitive than dry particles and easier to use IMO.




I took my class 12 years ago, so I am sure things changed, But I kow when I was testing my own welds there was a few times when a VERY good looking weld looked awsome, but failed the AWS tests big time. Most was a radiograph because I was a young guy and didnt know to clean ALL the flux out before a second , 3rd, 4th 5th pass and would have slag inclusions big time.

I have a few crack issues when using the TIG, or once in a while with the sub arc machine. We only tested our welds for about a week and a half, and thats all it took for me to figure out proper cleaning techniques.

Kasey







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