I changed out my valve covers,air cleaner and the carb to the holley 850hp,i had to pop the distributor cap off to make room and after i tightened everything up, i cranked it over and remembered the cap was loose.I then cranked the motor til the rotor pointed at #1 wire and #1 piston tdc,(i noticed the timing mark on crank was near 0 aswell)it kinda coughed through the carb but started and was obviously wrong so i turned the crank mark past the 0 on crank until the rotor was lined up with #1 wire again.......nothing now?

i hooked the hose from distributor to the timed spark advance....hope that's right?
the pcv to the back of the carb since it was the only port big enough...hope that"s right because in the book it says "POWER BRAKE VAC but there isn't any other hook up

this car has manual brakes

Are you saying the car is dead? You might have boogered up the cap rotor when you turned it over w/o having the cap tight. When #1 is all the way up on the compression stroke the rotor should be close to the #1 on the cap. Also some caps have #1 stamped in 2 places and some are for SB.
When you set your advanced timing the vac advance SHOULD NOT be hooked up. Depending on the build you are probably going to want 36* total at 2500rpm and 18* initial. Did you adjust the mixture screws for best vaccum at idle?

This makes no sense.
All you did was pop the distributor cap off.
Makes absolutely no difference where the rotor was, is, will be...
So you reinstall the cap and it won't run, now.

Did you pull any plug wires out? The coil wire?

Possible 180 out If you pulled dist.

ok,from the beggining...i managed to get the car running but now have a dead spot when i stomp on peddle in park and hesitation when kicking in 4 barrels.

I measured 2.25"s from timing mark to get my 36 over all timing,intial is about 17 now,set fuel level in bowls to slow trickle,adjusted the 4 corner idle mix for best vac with guage,changed front and back squirters from 29 to 32's,new plugs,new rotor/cap......still hesitating

the 850 holley street hp comes with 80jets 45 power valve,80 jet back no primary

the cam is the pink on pump and set clearance on set screw to 15 thou like it requests on line

thanks in advance for any pointers!

tell us about the cam and Torque converter it may need a 6.5 or even higher power valve!

274 comp cam
2800 tci stall
4:10 gears

just got off the phone with the guy who sold me the carb and now he's saying the power valve might have to be the 6.5. Nice i gave him all my info and now i have to screw around with it!

Yea try a 6.5 as it gets you going and if your vacuum is higher that delays opening so a flat spot! may need other tweeks but this is where I would start.

See if you can get an in gear idle vacuum and RPM should be 800 to 850! :-)

Lately people seem to be erroring on the low side for PV's mostly to stop problems with low idle speed and vacuum associated with it then you need to go up! Holley used to put 6.5's in as a rule new and for most performance cars that worked well????

82 jets in front 84 back and a adjusting the accelerating pump screws has gotten it closer but still a bit of hesitation. A 6.5 and 5.5 power valve are on the way.Talking with a local performance guy ,he suggested changing the squirters up to 35's.....i just upped them from 29 to 32.He explained that the bogg is from when the throttle plates open there's too much air and not enough fuel to cover the vac drop, a larger squirter and pump adjust will cure this .He also explained that the jet size has nothing to do with hesitation right off the line.He runs 35 front& 37 rear jets in his 640hp challenger.

so much for being tuned out of the box!

I just bought a 750 Quick fuel and it has a 6.5 power valve. 72 primay and 82 secondary jets idle air bleed 70/39 high speed bleed 31/31 primary nozzle 33 needle and seat 110. Thats how it came out of the box. Will be installing when i make an intake desicion.

the power valve also lets fuel in to help transition before the boosters start to provide fuel! too low a number and they don't open and provide that fuel like they should!

prostock in Edmonton recommended this carb for it's supposed street use characteristics but i'm starting to think i should've went for the regular 4150.Even Holley themselves figured it should be very closely tuned right out of the box.It seems this 440 is thirsty and wants more and more fuel!!

Have you used a good advance timing lite on this ? Ron

i used measurements from other mopar members from the timing mark on damper but do have a friend who is bringing his good light with degree dial on it. i rolled the damper on timing mark adding up and marking pulley as i went to add up 35 degrees.Now my initial timing is around 17.

I would not condem anything until you get the good timing lite on it with the advance meter. I mean you can get it close the way you did it but it can still be off a bit. Ron

thanks i'll keep an update on this after i use the proper light on it.It sure seems there's alot of adjusting to do on a holley....hope it's worth it!