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They really are 99% bolt in now.

I'm using off the shelf headers, oilpan and mounts. The rest of the hardware is pretty straight forward. Just using an old lakewood SB bell housing for the trans with a Mopar 10.5" flywheel for the Hemi.

My swap is easier than most because I built the car to take EFI and big power years ago. I've already got a 1/2 Feed and return fuel system in stainless hardline and a Painless wiring harness for easy hook up.

My motorbuild will be as follows:





6.1 Based motor (I've already got a .030 6.1 block and several 6.1 cranks)

Either a forged 6.1 or a forged 7.0. If I go 6.1 I'll run it with my 64cc eagles for 10:1 and then swap to a stock big chamber apache for 9:1 later and throw a 3.6LC Kenne Bell on. Instant 800+rwhp on pump fuel.

5.7 Eagle heads ported by GTP here in Houston (360 cfm at .500)

Ported 6.1 intake by GTP.

Cam By Steve Frank

FAST XFI with 92mm TB a walboro pump/surge tank

Mopar SRT4 stage 1 or 2 injectors

TTI 1 7/8 headers back to a 2.5" H-pipe Exhaust (Small, I know)

23 spline 833 with a Centerforce DF and a 3.54 Dana 60. No plans for an OD unit or anything special.

I'd be shooting for at least 500rwhp from an N/A 6.1 (374) or about 600rwhp from a 426 on pump fuel.

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As said, it's not particularly difficult anymore.

Nearly stock 5.7 installed in '69 Charger originally equipped with broken 440/727. For cruisin' not racin', fairly low buck.

It's not mine, it's my buddys. I rebuilt the lower end of the used 5.7, he put the heads and intake on. It's just a stock rebuild other than it has a used steel 6.1 crank that I just threw in there without thinking about potential balance issues (haven't had any issues with it).

-a small block 727 with manual valve body and converter
-Mopar Performance flexplate
-TTI headers and conversion mounts, homemade exhaust
-Mopar Performance oil pan (now ns1, use Milodon instead)
-The same radiator as before with custom radiator hoses (went into the back room at the parts store, bought about 30 radiator hoses, used two that worked, returned the rest)
-A/C delete with a belt re-route
-a low buck power steering cooler consisting of a really long pressure line with lots of bends in it
-A generic aftermarket electric fan
-Alternator B+ wire re-routed directly to B+
-Mopar Performance crate computer, intake manifold and throttle body (FI) (he found a killer deal on ebay)
-stock rails and injectors from a 2004 pickup truck
-electric fuel pump and filter

He could have saved money with hooker headers instead of tti (I don't know why hooker does not promote them better), or might have found exhaust manifolds that would work.
He could have carb'd it for less and used an msd for ignition also.

But that's a low buck deal.
Really the sky's the limit if you want to throw more cash at it.

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Some real nice builds going!

Curious to know little things like what rads, hoses, front timing cover and pulley assembly's, etc.

For example, just to use myself, I currently have an SB with no power accessories whatsoever, and a rad with driver side hose inlet....what changes with the hemi, or specifically, what changed with your setup (if the hemi wasn't the first motor you built for the car)

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As said, it's not particularly difficult anymore.

Nearly stock 5.7 installed in '69 Charger originally equipped with broken 440/727. For cruisin' not racin', fairly low buck.

It's not mine, it's my buddys. I rebuilt the lower end of the used 5.7, he put the heads and intake on. It's just a stock rebuild other than it has a used steel 6.1 crank that I just threw in there without thinking about potential balance issues (haven't had any issues with it).

-a small block 727 with manual valve body and converter
-Mopar Performance flexplate
-TTI headers and conversion mounts, homemade exhaust
-Mopar Performance oil pan (now ns1, use Milodon instead)
-The same radiator as before with custom radiator hoses (went into the back room at the parts store, bought about 30 radiator hoses, used two that worked, returned the rest)
-A/C delete with a belt re-route
-a low buck power steering cooler consisting of a really long pressure line with lots of bends in it
-A generic aftermarket electric fan
-Alternator B+ wire re-routed directly to B+
-Mopar Performance crate computer, intake manifold and throttle body (FI) (he found a killer deal on ebay)
-stock rails and injectors from a 2004 pickup truck
-electric fuel pump and filter

He could have saved money with hooker headers instead of tti (I don't know why hooker does not promote them better), or might have found exhaust manifolds that would work.
He could have carb'd it for less and used an msd for ignition also.

But that's a low buck deal.
Really the sky's the limit if you want to throw more cash at it.

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How much power would you guess he ended up with?

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Some real nice builds going!

Curious to know little things like what rads, hoses, front timing cover and pulley assembly's, etc.

For example, just to use myself, I currently have an SB with no power accessories whatsoever, and a rad with driver side hose inlet....what changes with the hemi, or specifically, what changed with your setup (if the hemi wasn't the first motor you built for the car)

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The A Body guys have it tough- less fits for us. There are two front timing covers, one for the Trucks and one for the LX's. The Jeep timing cover is the same as the LX with a different style alternator. The alternator for the Jeep *might* offer more clearance. Most A Body guys have to notch their frame rail for the alternator.

A Body guys generally have to run manual steering to get everything to fit. TTI makes headers that fit with the stock K member, and a different set that fits with an AlterKtion. TTI makes mounts as well, and requires them for their headers, I believe. It seems the SRT8 jeep manifolds can be made to fit in an A body with AlterKtion, but there is no way to make them work with a stock K member. However, Jeep 5.7 manifolds do fit with a stock k member and manual steering. Some guys have made LX 5.7 manifolds fit with notching to the passenger side frame, but no A body guy has gotten the LX 6.1 manifolds to fit (to my knowledge).

B Body guys get to run power steering, but I'm not sure what does and does not fit as far as exhaust goes. But, they do have more room. I believe LX 5.7 manifolds fit, but I'm not sure about LX 6.1 manifolds. I'd bet the Jeep 6.1 manifolds will have a shot a fitting, but someone else will have to look into that.

A lot of guys switch the radiator, but you should be fine with what you have. Finding the right hose will be the only hard part. I bought a radiator with inlet and outlet both on the passenger side, since that is where both are on the LX timing cover.

The difficult item is the fuel system- either keep your fuel level over 1/2 a tank, pay up for a dedicated EFI tank, or do what I'm doing and go with a surge tank. I'll have a low pressure carter feeding a surge tank, and a walbro GSL392 pumping from the bottom of the surge tank. That way, if the pickup ever runs dry in the tank, I'll have 30-60 seconds of fuel in the surge tank. My carter outflows the Walbro, so it will catch up quickly. If you don't know much about a surge tank, I'll post something up later.

Some companies suggest the truck front cover for A body guys. I don't like the alternator and AC right up front and center, so I decided to make the LX one work. However, there have been some guys modify the Truck front cover to move those two items out and run a LX intake with spacers between the intake and heads.

I'll let Steve and Alex update ya'll on the strength of the internal components in the engine, options for computers, etc.

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This is some great info! thank you for sharing!

It looks like either timing cover will work in the a-bodies without power steering, just depends what you want to work with. That is good to know. I wouldn't want to add power steering so that is no issue for me, but again good info for others who may be reading this.

If I ever ran one it would definitely be a carb just because I prefer it over any sort of EFI setup, not to mention it would save costs. Im assuming the carb setup would eliminate the need for the surge tank? Again though that would be great info to post up for others looking at this since I figured having a thread with some info for those thinking about it or wanting to tackle the swap would be good

Thanks for sharing what you know so far, definitely appreciated Yours sounds like a fun ride!

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As said, it's not particularly difficult anymore.

Nearly stock 5.7 installed in '69 Charger originally equipped with broken 440/727. For cruisin' not racin', fairly low buck.

It's not mine, it's my buddys. I rebuilt the lower end of the used 5.7, he put the heads and intake on. It's just a stock rebuild other than it has a used steel 6.1 crank that I just threw in there without thinking about potential balance issues (haven't had any issues with it).

-a small block 727 with manual valve body and converter
-Mopar Performance flexplate
-TTI headers and conversion mounts, homemade exhaust
-Mopar Performance oil pan (now ns1, use Milodon instead)
-The same radiator as before with custom radiator hoses (went into the back room at the parts store, bought about 30 radiator hoses, used two that worked, returned the rest)
-A/C delete with a belt re-route
-a low buck power steering cooler consisting of a really long pressure line with lots of bends in it
-A generic aftermarket electric fan
-Alternator B+ wire re-routed directly to B+
-Mopar Performance crate computer, intake manifold and throttle body (FI) (he found a killer deal on ebay)
-stock rails and injectors from a 2004 pickup truck
-electric fuel pump and filter

He could have saved money with hooker headers instead of tti (I don't know why hooker does not promote them better), or might have found exhaust manifolds that would work.
He could have carb'd it for less and used an msd for ignition also.

But that's a low buck deal.
Really the sky's the limit if you want to throw more cash at it.

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How much power would you guess he ended up with?

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We did a 68 Charger with the following:

5.7 stock block
.030 Milled 5.7 heads with PAC 1218 springs
FRI 215/219 Camshaft .573 lift.
Mopar Carbed Intake / AED 750 carb
TTI headers
Keisler 5 speed
MSD 6 Hemi

It put out 290rwhp with 10 degrees timing and no tuning on the carb.

My personal heads are full ported with a stock eagle 2 piece valve and PAC 1220 springs. Should be good for about 1.7HP/CI on the right motor. These are a closed chamber head.

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Does anybody have an idea what a low milage, complete 6.1 might cost?
Thanks

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