73 barracuda 340 auto, pulling to left under any braking. I think I've done all the obvious. New 11.75 rotors with appropriate caliper brackets, new pads. Rebuilt passenger side caliper, bled the front brakes multiple times, no air, even remembered to pull up on that little tab on the prop valve while doing it. Checked strut rods, initially found the drivers side was out 1/4 inch - tightened it up - still pulls to drivers side. Shocks are KYB fairly unused. Magnumforce tubular UCA. When the car is jacked up both sides seem to have good braking, any ideas.
Thanks

bleed from pass side rear first, then drivers side rear then pass front, them front, bleed technique, rubber hose on bleed screw into a jar with brake fluid covering the bleed hose, , push on brake, hold to floor, open bleed screw, wait, close screw, let off pedal, repeat, a few times each wheel, until NO bubbles appear, in jar of brake fluid
sorry, if you know this already, but ive seen a few guys that dont follow the correct way
if your car still pulls, to one side , I would say you have a a caliper that is binding, not out of the realm even for a rebuilt caliper
hope this might help

You might try, with the front wheels off the ground & a helper in the drivers seat applying varied amounts of force to the pedal & you bear hug both front wheels & see if at diff amt of pedal pressure each side is getting the same amt of braking force.

Try looking at the rear brakes...

No, the car definately needs a good alignment, so I realize this could be part of the problem, but the force that it pulls to the left is really impressive. I'm wondering if the proportioning valve is the problem. How do you check this?

Ok, I bled the rear brakes, no air. Went to the front, jacked up the car, I found out first that the drivers side wheel took alot more force to spin, and it took alot less force on the brakes to get the drivers side to stop, so I took off the caliper, took out the caliper piston, cleaned it, put new seals in the caliper put it back on. Ok the drivers side wheel spun easier, but still stopped easier than the passenger side. Went to bleed the front passenger side, air, bled some more - more air. Again and again air, it took acouple of minutes for the air to reaccumulate. The drivers side had no air on bleeding. Went back to the passenger side, replaced the bleeder screw, still air. Started up the car - still pulled to the left. Could the air leak be from the prop valve or is it the caliper? Enough for one day.