My current stock manual box is worn out. I see you can get 16:1 and stock 24:1 boxes. How do the 16:1 boxes work on a street car with low speed turning/parking etc.

There is also a 20:1 box. Tim

You could rebuild your current box. It's not a black art. Parts used to be available from the dealer, but I can't guarentee that's still true. If you do, but still want a faster ratio, then just buy the worm gear. The 20:1 was a P-part, the 16:1 was a standard part but may have also been sold as a p-part. You also could have a place like Firm feel rebuild it. Should be cheaper than buying another one outright.

Parallel parking is definately a bit of work. This is with the original steering wheel (15" dia? bigger?). If you have to turn the steering wheel with the car motionless, its not easy. More work than the standard 24:1 I can't honestly say. I'd have to swap on stock wheels and tires to make an honest comparison. I think so though.

Once the car is moving I don't find the 16:1 any real work at all. Before installing the 16:1, I had 20:1 in my rebult /6 box. Biggest advantage to the 16:1 is during slaloms. If you're not doing slaloms then 20:1 might be a compromise.

I got lucky and found a 16:1 Flaming River used for cheap. I think all that FF offers is a 20:1 rebuild. I thought about putting a quickener on a stocker until I found the Flamer box. A 2:1 quickerner would make like a 12:1 box.

You can get too fast of a ratio, it makes things twitchy at high speed. The 20:1 box was a quicker ratio without the high speed jitters. I drove my wife's gocart and that thing at 25 mph is really twitchy but she likes it that way. I upped the ratio to fast steering. I dont like it that way myself. Tim

Last i checked there were NO 20:1 or 16:1 kits left anywhere, and Firm Feel has no, and cannot build/rebuild you 16 or 20:1 boxes. ONLY Flaming River offers a fast ratio box, with 16:1. They are pricey, and they are made ov iron, not aluminum... so they'll be heavier. I dont know why the hell FR would choose iron.

If i am wrong, i wish someone would offer some options. I need a 16:1 manual in my E-body, and have resigned myself to spending $500 i dont have on the FR unit, to replace a perfectly good manual box, that is probably half the weight (in a VERY weight-conscious project).

Mancini has the 20:1 gears last time I checked, that's where I got mine. Good Luck.

20:1 sounds like a good compromise. Checked around for prices $325 for the worm gear assy only. Thats more then a rebuilt box from FF.

Looks like they ran out, you may want to call and see if they can source one for you, or have one on the shelf still. If not, I'd pull the trigger on the Flaming River box. A 16:1 manual box is the same ratio as the P/S box. I've driven my Barracuda with the pump disconnected (leaky pump had a hard time finding one)and it's not that bad unless I've had to crank the wheel from a dead stop. BTW that's with 255/50-17s on 17X8" wheels and a 13.5" steering wheel.

Not to high jack this thread but how does a manual box work in a autocross car? Just wondering how tough it is to steer through a hair pin at speed while braking. And if I understand correctly everyone agrees on a 20/1 box for such a set up?

For autocross the 20:1 is too slow. When I mentioned 'slaloms' above I was refering to the part of autocrossing where a 16:1 is most valuable. Once the car is moving, physically turning the wheel is not excessively hard, but does require some upper body and arm strength in an autocross. You definately want to be in decent shape, and if you are driving through the Alps (or similar) for hours on end, a power unit is probably the better choice for most people.

For a tight turn (autocross), I generally reach across the wheel with the inside hand as early and as far as possible. Jr Johnson driving my car kept his hands in position and turned the wheel that way for most of the turns. A few drivers like Jr can get away with this on all but the tightest turns. There are some other more current steering techniques, and you may decide they work for you.

Also if you prefer to be well strapped with a harness, you'll be using different muscles and techniques than if you can lean forward a little and use your back muscles.

Oh yes, if you've added a lot of caster, the steering wheel will snap back to center if you let go of it. Best to keep it under control even though its more work to unwind it.

yes,paid over 300 ballubas for my 20.1 worm gear from a dealer on e-bag,took 2 months until i got it after i paid.a nos sector gear shaft i found for 20 ball$bas ,also on e-bag.finally firm-feel has rebuild kits with all bearing and seals for around 100$. its not cheap,you better put on your golden pants

Mancini is sold out and Firm Feel doesn't have any either.