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You must be connected with the builder to take such offense to the concenus of those that replied ...

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You must be connected with the builder to take such offense to the concenus of those that replied ...

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Nope, no offense taken. In fact I just got done minitubbing and relocating the springs on my Dart and I did it the tried and true way, into the frame.

But my point is there is more than one way to do things, and there are a lot of assumptions going on about how dangerous and wrong it was to do it how this guy did it.

Yeah, maybe it only ran one 11.50, maybe it will fall off one day, maybe it will rip the frame, etc. but unless those theories have evidence, then why accept those over the theory that it is sufficient, properly welded, tried and true over several seasons, etc. Or the theory that there are other people who have chosen to do it this way (to avoid cutting the frame for whatever reason) who are not having rearends and frames ripping out left and right.

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There are definitely more than one way to do things ... I say to people I work with there are 3 ways to do things , the right way , the wrong way and my ... or if someone else did it THAT ... way , 2 of those ways are usually the same.

The usual, and correct way would have the plate the both spring hangars are bolted to should be supported on both sides at a minimum, it doesn't take a rocket scientist to see that the way in the above picture is an accident waiting to happen once the right amount of traction and torque are applied.

I've seen better supported setups many would think was done properly almost ripped out, that one ..

The op asked for an opinion and he got exactly what he asked for as someone else pointed out.

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You must be connected with the builder to take such offense to the concenus of those that replied ...

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Nope, no offense taken. In fact I just got done minitubbing and relocating the springs on my Dart and I did it the tried and true way, into the frame.

But my point is there is more than one way to do things, and there are a lot of assumptions going on about how dangerous and wrong it was to do it how this guy did it.

Yeah, maybe it only ran one 11.50, maybe it will fall off one day, maybe it will rip the frame, etc. but unless those theories have evidence, then why accept those over the theory that it is sufficient, properly welded, tried and true over several seasons, etc. Or the theory that there are other people who have chosen to do it this way (to avoid cutting the frame for whatever reason) who are not having rearends and frames ripping out left and right.

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Extra credit for putting the fuel line right there to. That way when it breaks loose and grinds on the pavement in a shower of sparks, he'll be able to keep a good fire going.

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I'd like to see those people explain why this design is actually unsafe-- knowing how much weight/force is on each of the 4 involved weight-bearing areas of the rearend (the front and rear hangers on each side), and that a properly welded bracket of sufficiently sized steel would fail under those forces.


This design is going to have flex... being that the
load is applied to 1 side... flex ends up causing
cracks and failure... if its boxed with a gusset
applied to the edge and running to the frame it will
spread the load and keep it from flexing.... also
flex adds in binding which can change all the time
and makes it(the car) less consistent.... there is
a magic word in chassis building... triangulation

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Will prob use this as a negotiating place.

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Putting the leaf springs inboard of the frame rails makes the roll center too close. Maybe, just maybe you could install a anti-roll bar set-up like tube chassis cars use to help keep the load even. Actually, they make a nice addition to a leaf spring car anyway, as they even out the torque loading and make the car react quicker.

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I've had three cars with the springs moved into the sub frames, I've not seen any noticeable changes in the handling at the track or on the street

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Putting the leaf springs inboard of the frame rails makes the roll center too close. Maybe, just maybe you could install a anti-roll bar set-up like tube chassis cars use to help keep the load even. Actually, they make a nice addition to a leaf spring car anyway, as they even out the torque loading and make the car react quicker.

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I've had three cars with the springs moved into the sub frames, I've not seen any noticeable changes in the handling at the track or on the street

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The closer you move them inboard it will increase
roll rate(easier for the body to roll)... weather
you seen it or not