So I have been working on this 68 GTX that I picked up in the fall. Had the interior out of it, rebuilt the dash, etc.. Got it all back together this past week and crossed my fingers and fired it up. Everything worked! All the gages, switches, everything! This almost never happens!

The car has power windows. In my enthusiasm with how things were going, I cycled the windows. Big mistake, on the second time through the right rear window went down and now won't come back up. When the switch is toggled, there isn't even a drain on the ammeter. The other windows still work.

Damm...now I will have to rip out the back seat, etc. to get to the guts! Any tips or thoughts as I get started? I actually have a new NOS motor and new NOS single switch in my stash of parts. I did not rebuild anything associated with the windows prior to this

pop the switch off and take a jumper wire to try and get that motor to spin the window up.

I've got a car with power windows and I never roll my rear windows down completely because the motor's are weak..this lets me grab the windows and help them up when necessary

A lot of times, the gears that are driven by the window motor get caked up with a grease/dirt mix that makes it hard for the motor to work properly. If this is the case with your windows, cleaning and replacing with new grease will get them working like new again. However, you have to remove the motors to do it. Probably not what you really wanted to do.

If the motors were dragging due to stiff grease or binding or whatever you would register a load when cycling the switch..

No power it getting to the motor, it's a switch problem... The master & the single switch both can cause the window not to work from either switch... If you haven't touched the single chances are it's the master... If you have spare switches try swapping them out...

And when your done messing around & just want the windows to work every time..

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...e=0#Post4775992

Ok, latest...

I switched the single switch with a known good one...no change...no movement and no load on the ammeter. The other three windows work well.

I ran a volt meter across the switch. I am getting power to the single switch that shows when I toggle the switch with the meter on either the down or up wires and ground.

Now here I where I get confused. I tried to put a battery charger across the green up wire and ground. The charger tripped its safety circuit each time. On the gray down wire, nothing happened ( the window is down).

So I guess next is out comes the seat? In order to either jumper the motor or swap it? Remember this is the right rear. What a pain, nice new interior too!

I believe the motor uses just the two wires that change polarity with each direction you want motor to operate.

Actually by design both leads going to the motor are sent to ground through the master switch.... Either switch can break the ground to one wire & apply power to that lead... Adding relays means the ground path is shortened to inside the door... As well as making the power path more direct.....

I though he was referencing the two wires coming out of the motor, not the wires at the switch?

Is anyone reproducing the power window wiring harnesses? I don't think there are any reproduction wiring or switches for the power windows?

He hasn't pulled the seat so he's working at the switch connector, I can't seem to find a schematic but going off memory on the cars I've done power window work green & gray don't go to the motor...

No reproduction parts... And if the harness were reproduced it's likely it wouldn't get improved upon with relays..

Using this, not a 68 but the colors still match

according to that the color to the motor & the color to the switch are the same so position is the only way to id the wires... just be sure your using the wires that are diagonal to each other & don't power up with the master switch... And when testing the connector for power remember both leads that will power up when the master switch is toggled need to receive ground when ever they don'e receive power.. I suspect thats where you'll find your problem & ground for all windows is always a function of the master switch..

I know from experience working with 80s Dodge trucks that even a bad motor will register some kind of load on the ammeter. Those truck ammeters almost never move so it is a pretty good load.

Sounds like something in the switch or the wiring. If the drivers master switch is messing up then you wont get any power to the switch in the back. learned that from experience as well.

Did he say he had a spare motor?
Couldn't he hook up the new motor to the existing switch w/o pulling out everything?
That way he could test to see if the existing electrical set up works?

Actually you will have power on the center location... What you won't have is a ground....

Got the window back up! Used a battery charger and jumpered the window at the rear switch and it came right up, nice and strong. Guess that it's not the motor, which is good news. New switch on the back window and it still doesn't go up on its own. So next will be to try a new front four gang switch I guess. The other windows all still work.

When the new switch fixes it realize it's only a matter of time till another one fails..... Relays....