on the top of the fuel bowl I have two numbers
0120
4352

on the side of the fuel bowl I have
12R-4328B

I went to napa but he had a hard time matching up the kit. he eventually found the 4352 but preceded by an r something and ending in a b something. he didn't evoke a lot of confidence and the picture of the parts it looked similar but one of the parts looked a little off from what little I knew of the carb. I never had it off but i did take off the bowl cover and the plate in front of the needle jet valve thing looked different. but maybe the part in the pic wasn't meant to replace that. I've never rebuilt a carb so don't know.

if it's still for a 1920 should I go ahead and order it? the carb was recently rebuilt but I'm having a problem and want to try at least replacing the needle. I'm thinking the kit can't be too far off. but having never done it I don't know.

thoughts.

Check out this link. It's a rebuild kit and instructions for the model 1920 Holley 1-bbl carb. It is on the right, about the third row of kits down and the "Instructions" are a PDF File.

http://www.surplussales.com/Automobile/Carburetors/holley.html

I believe there were variations in that design through the years, and the kit must be generic enough to include parts for all of them. That means you will end up not using all the parts in the kit.

thanks for the link. after reading the instructions how do I know if my engine has crankcase ventilation or not?

never mind after further reading found this:
"All slant-6s after 1962 have closed crankcase vent (and many '62s, and some '61s). "


at http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27750&highlight=holley+1920+manual

Take some notes as you are dissasembling the carb,what length of screws go where how the links go etc. several minutes of writing will save alot of heartache later. Save all old gaskets as the kits always have extra's for different variations of the carb & I measure all the old specs on the carb as I tear it down such as the float level etc to match up against the listed settings and a new float will not be a part of the kit but ALWAYS get a new one(if phenolic) they are cheap & can & do absorb gas over time.