You run smodern stereos setups and amps from batt post ( or starter relay stud ) simply because there is not another BUSS source to take the power. That was what built the myth of the need for the batt source to amps.

Then, you have the capacitors to keep the Turbobass speakers working without damage the rest of system and don't damage the amp and speaker because alternator is not quick enough to replace the power that Bass amps and speakers sucks on that moment... Those BUMPS BUMPS ARE TOO QUICK TO alt/regulator sense and feed. Those capacitors are like a Power Buss storage

You can notice in fact when you hit brakes pedal, ammeter shows a slight discharge reading for a second or less untill alternator is able to take back that power and beging to feed the brake lights. Of course that is if alt is charging at iddle. If not, then you won't have recovered that power untill get increased RPMs.



whatever... I already posted my experience. everybody is free to take any advice.

I'm not saying madelectrical option doesn't work, I'm just saying that they are stating some stuff is not 100% true like the location of main splice.

I already posted the meaning of the ammeter reading.

You can run your car without batt, so thats a prove where is the power coming from... what of course is not safe because being a spining device, the ALTERNATOR, regulator loose a fixed voltage reference to keep safe the system, but is posible to make it

If you unplugg the batt, ammeter will stay on death center unless you have stuff plugged on batt side of ammeter. That is a prove what's the device status reading on ammeter. Once again If not batt, no reading on ammeter.

You can notice on burnt bulkheads cavities ALLWAYS the worst damaged you get of both wires is the alt wire location. Is the first to beging to be melt on bulkhead.

well... there are the options, everybody takes the best setup for each one.

I need the BRICKWALL icon here from other boards LOL...

nothing of what I said here or said on thread I made and posted here too has been read or paid 100% attention

Well, I'm not trying to win LOL... just that I'm trying to kill some myths and missinformation what I already kill doing it on my car... not just me, also John Mac ( 71_deputy ) and some other members along some boards with a GREAT SUCCESS, and even better in a "mopar way" LOL without modify anything or drill anything beside the firewall.

what I made Is already on Mopar diagrams for high optioned cars.

bottom line is this. its not good to have the battery feed to the fuse block coming thru the bulkhead connector because the connector WILL GET HOT and will melt under high load or high resistance (like when there is corrosion)

Same it true about the alternator feed. it is not good to run that wire through the bulkhead connector for the same reason.

Finally, it is debatable whether the ammeter should go or stay but it is safer if it is bypassed as it removes a known potential problem. Mine still works and I still use it. my nuts on the back are still tight and doesnt appear to look like its going to fail. someday, i may regret that decision.

I have worked with electronics all my life. I am fully aware of the workings of the mopar electrical system and where things go wrong and why. typically, it is due to corrosion on those bulkhead terminals or excessive current draw that heats up the terminals, melts the connectors, causes the terminals to oxidize which causes more resitance on the terminals which exasperate the problem (more resistance which means more heat)to the point of a complete failure

I'm agree on part of what you said cucu and thats why I say go throught firewall with parallel wires, to "bypass" the original ones on bulkhead. You don't need to get rid off the original ones if they are not damaged. By OHMS LAW the power will go first for the parallel ones and barelly will go throught the originals.

But to get the original ones also working good, keep them clean. In that way if you run 10 or 8 wires on the parallel wiring, with the stock ones is like you have maybe one 6 gauge wire in total.

will never heat because the extra load not able to pass by the stock ones, will run throught the parallel ones without problem.

On this diagram:
Power throught parallel and stock wires

what is not more than an expanded view of:
THIS ORIGINAL DIAGRAM

the MAIN SPLICE located on alt side of ammeter ( YES THE MAIN SPLICE, NOT THE STARTER RELAY WHAT IS NOT THE MAIN SPLICE ) is being feeded from both sides of stock wire, so you are technically duplicating the wire gauge to feed the splice.

IF BY CASUALITY you are feeding everything on main splice and also batt is getting charged, the parallel wire on black side being thicker is able to send power to the main splice AND the battery without heat. If you try to be logical and analize the diagram, the amm stud does have at that moment 3 times more wire than just the stock wire. not chance to heat there.

The starter relay stud IS NOT A SPLICE by itself, is simply a JUNCTION. If you try to remove the starter relay from there you will get A SINGLE WIRE FROM BATT TO AMMETER with same result, so that's why is not a splice. You can not make that on the splice ilustrated on alt side. a Splice is a source able to feed LOT of devices at the same time with diff wires from one point... is a multiple intersection to deliver the power to different devices demanding power. On starter relay the only demand is the batt JUST if is discharged.

The power to the starter motor is NOT going trhought the starter relay stud and even less TROUGHT THE AMMETER, so not a chance to get the starter motor demand throught the ammeter, just the relay turn on function, that is being activated by ignition switch, what is on THE ALT SIDE of wiring, and that's why you get a discharge reading when cranking.. maybe just 10-15 amps on that moment depending if dome light is on, cortesy lights etc...

The starter motor consumption on cranking is not INSTANTLY recharged by alternator once engine is started up so you don't have to worry about 80 or 100 amperes throught ammeter, it takes about 2 to 5 minutes to get it back depending on alternator output capacity, and on that moment you will get reading on ammeter untill get back needle to center. Of course that is if you have a balanced charging system able to feed/charge at iddle. You will never get when warming engine at 1800 Rpms or so 100 amps even if alternator is 120 amps. Output rate is stated by MAX ouput able to give, that doesn't mean you will get 100 or 120 amps constant, just at HIG RPMs and just if car demands that.

Then talking about the amm studs like a splice. A tighten nut and clean terminals there will never overheat that splice. Trust me. The rust and burning points you find on burt ammeters is not because the heats begans on those studs ( unless tehy are loosen of course ), is because the electrons running throught the ammeter itself INSIDE the ammeter. The heats begans inside, not on studs.

If you get an alt able to feed the car, batt will never ( or barelly ) feed the MAIN splice, so power will never go THROUGHT ammeter, so no heat there. Same backwards, If you keep batt as much as posible out of the game feeding the MAIN splice ( yeah the REAL main splice ), then alternator will never need to recharge batt, because batt will never demand power back, so power will never go throught the ammeter in batt direction.

once again, read this thread I made:
WILL YOU GUYS BE ABLE TO READ HERE ? paying attention HUH

I think I'll make a video too of my car start up and loads being turned on and off to show the ammeter readings at every moment

just making a bump, since this is a very good read/discussion

( and I know after couple of years, they are gone )

I learned a lot from this board and other websites, researched the options for replacing the alternator in my 1970 'Cuda and re-configuring the wiring to handle increased electrical loads; and found an alternator that bolts right in and out performs any Mopar or Denso alternator equipt system, ESPECIALLY at idle output.

It's the late model Delco-Remy CS144. Mildly worked over, it puts out over 115 amps (if needed) at idle, and near 200 just above idle(again, if needed). Nothing else comes close, bolts right in with a simple adapter or is as reasonably priced. Period.

Picture?
Simple adapter would look like what?
"Mildly worked over" doing what to it?
http://www.alternatorparts.com/CS-144_Special_offer.htm
"The CS-144 alternator comes in many different mounting styles and pulley types. The alternator shown is the 6/12 mount with a 6 groove serpentine pulley. This is why we ask for your vehicle details so we can look up what mounting style and pulley type fits your vehicle. We then ship the alternator that fits your vehicle. Special requests for pulley types and mounting styles should be called in."

Hi Trent, I've had good luck going the Denso route too. I considered the Delco alt and it appears to be a solid setup as well. I ended up going with the Denso because I prefered the compact size and it was compatible with the existing factory bracket that I had. I was able to eliminated the external votage regulator which helps to clean up the engine compartment if that's a consideration.

I've done a couple different cars (both small and big blocks) using the Denso. I've sourced the parts locally if you decide to go this direction and can provide you with addional details if you would like to PM me.

....a closer shot of the adapter bracket. You can see how I routed the belts for the Sanden A/C pump to crank and the pump to alternator to give the belts greater wrap around the pulleys. By doing this, I increased that belt wrap by over 30 percent on each component. I moved the entire alternator forward using spacers to line it up this way, but in the stock belt-path configuration, the alternator would be back towards the moter more.

With a single v-belt, I needed all the belt to pulley contact I could get on these two potentially high drag items. (Under high current draw the alternator essencially acts like an electric/dynamic brake while producing current, causing high load on the little v-belt)

could always go with the big dinnerplate police alternator

What did you have to do for wiring for this? Just B+ to the regulator and another pin with a resistor in it?

I'm just running whatever they put on a late 80's 5th Ave on my New Yorker.

I bypassed the ammeter which was showing signs of trying to burn the car down (crispy) and ran some #8 wire from the Alt to the starter relay so any serious output takes what should be the path of least resistance to the battery.

If the battery is discharged it gets charged directly from the alternator not thru the bulkhead. My car doesn't have any big accessory draws on it so the only thing that should max out the alternator would be a discharged battery.

As for the original question when it comes to charging systems cool is usually better than hot . If I ever need more power I would likely lean toward the Denso product. I saw some reference to Delco and I have to say that in 35 yrs trucking over the road and 3 million plus miles I have NEVER had any luck with a Delco alternator. Leece-Neville has been my preference. Even the new throw away 160 amp ones they sell for under $200 are good for over a 1/2 million miles in my experience. They are a little on the huge side tho.

Kevin

One wire to key switched positive. You can also ad an idiot light(with resistor) and remote sensing if you want.