Hello, My name is Cody and I need some help figuring out some things about my MOPAR. I have been into the MOPAR family for about 12 years now, started when I was 15 with a 400BB charger. Then at 17 got my 440 cuda from a junkyard and mississippi, now 11 years later cuda is still running and finally restored. but some problems. 1st off I am sorry for the very long post this is my first time on a mopar forum, so I feel like finally I will be able to find an answer to the 440 problems. 72'440 Truck block bored.060 over , LY con rods, steel crank .10 over .10 under, speed pro hypertectic 10.1 pistons flat top, no valve notches straight up flat as a table flat top pistons. total power rings, I dont know the piston deck height, compression height any of that just stock block bored and all put together, just with over bore and 10.1 pistons, clevite bearings, the heads are stock 452's rebuilt, stock valvetrain, the cam is a comp magnum 230@.50, 280, .480int, .480exh, the cam was not degreed, just lined up the dots, on cloyes double roller timing chain.Timing is set to not detonate and runs and cranks good? I have stock size valves, 1-3/4 ceramic coated headers, eddy performer 440 intake, performer 750cfm carb, MP electronic ignition and dist. stock pulleys and balancer. no power steering no ac, just crank water pump and alternator. I wish I knew what the HP and TQ estimation was ballpark, it has 4.30 gears with locker, 26inch dragradials, TF, with 22oo stall, axle dump 2.5in exhaust dynomax ultra flo muffs. NOW the problem the engine just feels weak several of my friends have 383s that will walk the dog on my 440, and other 440s feel so much different. It does pull ok, but it just feels like a weak weak big block with the 4.30s it should just run like heck, it has a hard time breaking the drag radials over, the engine will shift from 1st to 2nd at 6000rpm and 2n to 3rd at 6500, the car just feels like it doesnt scream and pull like a 440 should, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. LIke i said I m sorry for the thesis length post here but I m out of options, I know the 440 is a great engine and should run much better, its all I wanted as a young kid, a 440 mopar,

Need higher stall converter for one.

And I would check that cam (degree it). How much timing (initial and advance) are you running?


Tim

I think initial timing is 10-12deg maybe, don't know what total is? Thanks for the replies.

Agree with cam and ignition timing and some tuning before spending $$ on a converter (which will probably help some). Spend some time tweaking. And welcome to the board.

Thanks for the info, thats a good start to go from, I will get the timing and carb adjustment pinned down, and go from there. thanks again. Cody

A higher stall converter should really help.
You really need to do some diagnostics before throwing parts at it. Pull the spark plugs and check their condition. With the spark plugs removed run a compression test on all the cylinders. A leak-down test might also give you more information.
With the right tools, you can check the cam installed centerline with out pulling the engine apart. With an ohm meter you can test the spark plug wires. You would want to check fuel pressure also. The Edelbrock/Carter type carbs will act like they are always running lean if the float level is too low.
With one of the on-engine valve spring compressirs you could remove a chambers springs and install checking springs to check for piston to valve clearance. I over-reved my old 383 that had flat tops without valve reliefs, and bent two intake valves. The engine still ran, but I could smell gas fumes coming out of the carb when I drove the car.

Welcome aboard. As said more info cranking compression/timing initial/total and when is it all in & what springs & need HP ex manifolds. Not sure if 750 is jetted lean or not but I am guessing it isn't

DEfinitely start with a compression test. I had a friend years ago who got a 67 Dart GT with a built 440 for cheap because there was very little compression in all cylinders. Previous owner even re-did the heads trying to fix it. The problem was in the cut-to-length pushrods. They were all too long. Sounds like it revs fine, though. In that case cam timing very well could be the problem.

IMO, you're over-revving the dogsnot out of it. No reason a 440 with that cam should be shifted at 6K+. It's way beyond the powerband. I bet it would run faster and pull better if it was shifted at 5500 max. If you want to leg it out in high gear, fine. Accelerating, no chance is 6K+ shift points doing it any good.

Degree the cam! Probably installed at 106 or lower.

I think you have a mismatch of stuff. Throw that ede carb in the trash. The intake, if not an RPM, isn't worth a snot on a performance engine, maybe a tow truck/motorhome. Get an RPM intake.

A converter would be a good idea too. Something in the 3K stall range. 2200 isn't enough with that cam.

Get a good tune up on it, starting with 15* initial and tailoring the curve to the engine.

First off you don't have 10.0 compression if you have a KB hyperuthetic piston with no valve reliefs , does KB even have a piston like that? Any 440 piston with no valve reliefs is about .090 in the hole , that's an 8.5 at best engine with 452s .

Comp Cams recommends a 2000 rpm converter in the 440 with that camshaft. You said, "stock valve train". Does that mean you are still running the stock valve springs on the stock 452 heads? If so, you are looking at a case of valve float as 6000-6500 rpm is way to high to be shifting that cam, especially, as with stock 452 heads and that intake manifold you are sucking all the air outta the intake long before 5500. As others have said, check the cam and ignition timing.

Ditch the carb and intake

Degree the cam it sounds retarded a little extra advance form suggested install is usually the way to go!