The Challenge: looking for the most bang for my buck for $1500 I will soon have to spend.

Car: 1967 Satellite, 440, 727, 9.5" Dynamic 4200 stall converter, deep trans pan, driveshaft safety loop, 3.91 clutch-type Suregrip, 9X28 Slicks on 15X7 cop rims, all steel, full interior, manual steering and brakes, no heater, Weld Draglites and 165/80-15s, 3600 pounds.

Motor: .040 over '71 440, stock stroke, steel crank, 9.75:1 static compression, close to zero deck, unported 452 iron heads, 238 at.050 Engle Hydraulic, Performer RPM, 850 DP, Hooker 1 and 7/8", 2.5" mandrel-bent with X pipe, FBO ignition kit, 3/8" line from tank to carb.

Suspension: original 318 with AC torsion bars, Monroematic shocks (longer ones for a Dodge Pickup on back), original 45 year-old 318 leaf springs, no subframe connectors.

Goal: at least high 12s in the quarter.

Things I'm considering: 90/10 shocks, subframe connectors, Calracs, Superstock Springs, pinion snubber, Stealth cylinder heads, 'glass hood with scoop, glass front bumper (front bumper is all tweaked anyway).

New build that I just got it running and sorted out driving around on the street for about 500 miles. Happy with the way it runs. Now I want to make it ready for some passes down the quarter-mile.

Ideas for me? I know $1500 isn't much but it's something. Thanks!

P.S. Brakes, master cylinder, front end, tires, and steering linkage are all new and it has been aligned so I think it is about as safe as a 45 year-old car with 45 year-old technology can get.

That should be running 12's now ... if not a little more cam and you are there , use a solid ...

Weiand Tunnel Ram, 2 x 750 Holleys, Solid lifter cam (MP590 ), sell the RPM and 850, buy a higher stall convertor, my guess would be DEEP 11's

You haven't said what it is running now. But I think you would need more compression to run the 590 cam. I went 12.6's with a stock 440 and a 509 cam in a 67 Satelite @ 3300 lbs. Wieand SP intake 850DP 4.56 rear.

Budget means Loose Weight, Rear wheels & any other unsprung Weight.
every 100 lbs good for a tenth!

It should run 12's now. I would get it running right with what you have, proper jetting, ignition curve, tire pressure etc.
Head flow is what stands out for me. However, what are you doing for a fuel pump?
And toss the front bumper, you don't need one anyway.

Sheldon

.020 steel shim head gaskets and a 509 cam and a 986g key, put around 36 to 38deg total timing in it go for an M1 or even a street dominator with that converter. go for some caltrac 90/10s up front. It sure wont cost $1500 but it sure will wake up


I wouldnt be suprised if you started lookin closly at 11s

Heads, heads, heads, heads

subframe connectors wont help you to go faster but is a good and cheap idea...And spend the 1500 on a 6pack lol

look around for a good set of aluminum heads that are ported and a cam to match...and of course an intake and carb to match...

sometimes there are guys that will sell quality stuff cheap when they are moving up...so look around..

Jeff is correct...My 64 started out like your car. My iron head 446" was in the mid 12.xxs. I had a 3.91 rear and was at the same weight. My intake was an m-1 with a Bigs 950. I also had a solid lifter cam in it. The converter was a PTC 4200. Got some weight off the car and put aluminum heads on and it eventually came down to 11.50s. If you shop around there are some good deals on here as some guys are stepping it up a bit. Good luck and keep us posted!! Ted

Run it and the track like it is and see how it performs.

New leaf springs are a good idea but may not be necessary if it hooks.Subframe connectors should be mandatory(especially if you plan on it going faster).

Get it to hook and stop safely(front discs a big plus)safely and then go faster.

ALl the motor needs is a good set of heads.Everything else seems tork well together.

Make one change at a time.Hard to tell if you are going forward if you do multiple changes.

New Super Stock Springs with appropriate shackles
3 way adjustable shocks all the way around, front loose, back tight
Recurve distributor to have advance all in by 2800 or so
Tinker with cams and squirters in carb
Consider borrowing an original Torker or Torker II intake

Will be lots of naysayers on the intake recommendation but I messed with a 65 Coronet for 3 or 4 years and tried several different combos. The main goal is to get it to sixty foot as quick as possible, all the recommendations above will do so. The car I ran was 3750 race ready, 440 0.060 over, 528 crane hydraulic cam, KB 236 or 238 pistons (no more than 10:1), unported 906 heads, single 850 holley race carb. Went 11.80s, low 1.60 60 foot times on a consistent basis and on a real good track went 1.58. Took several years and messing with things one at a time as previously suggested, but these are real numbers not just a keyboard jockey throwing stuff out there.

I really can not see any reason put money in traction parts without knowing if it spins

Aluminum Heads

1) Heads

2) Better camshaft

3) HD springs, NOT Super Stock springs.

Stealth heads and a bigger cam would probably get you in the 11s for $1500.

Weight ,weight ,weight .Look for anything to throw overboard especially on the front first off.A scoop and glass hood would be nice ,but dont waist your time if your not gunna make a pan and seal it to the carb.You may not need S/S springs or Caltracs.Im cutting mid to low 1.5 60 foots on 8.5 slicks and 47 yearold 6 cylinder springs .I would spend the $$ on the cam ,heads ,and intake as others have said.You wont really know if you have traction issues till you take it to the track.Subframe connectors are a must .I shaved a tenth off my 60 foot by adding them to my Dart and they only cost me $25.00 to make and a day to weld in .If it will hook now i think you should be in the 12's with what you got now ...