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Re: What suspension mods are in YOUR B body?
[Re: MrAngry]
#1151304
01/13/12 04:18 PM
01/13/12 04:18 PM
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 6,005
Reno, Nevada
NV69B7RR
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 6,005
Reno, Nevada
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Quote:
Here you go:
• Firm Feel or Magnum Force Tubular upper control arms
• Ditch the KYB's and put in a set of Edelbrock Performer IAS shocks
• Go to the 1 3/8 front sway bar from Hotchkis and a 7/8 rear bar
• ABSOLUTELY install sub-frame connectors and if you can, get the XV motorsports chassis stiffening kit. It includes inner fender well braces and under hood shock tower brace.
• You've already got the FF stage 3 steering box with Fast ratio idler and pitman arms - good move.
• Minimum of .96 on the torsion bars. This will help you out A LOT.
This is the set up I had on my 69 RR and worked great. On the road manners were great, and when pushed it was predictable. The Edelbrocks ride really well, especially on cracked/ older roads. Anything to lighten the front end up will help too, aluminum water pump housing, heads, etc. I ran the Flaming river manual box on mine.
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Re: What suspension mods are in YOUR B body?
[Re: 70 Roadrunner*]
#1151307
01/24/12 12:37 AM
01/24/12 12:37 AM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,664
IN
ahy
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,664
IN
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Quote:
I'm running a stock suspension in my 70 Roadrunner and am looking into getting into the suspension.First things first I need new shocks...Bilsteins are first on my list but I'm open to suggestions.Firm Feel sway bars front and back are second...and third the UAC and LCA from FFI plus a few other front end items.This is for a street application but I sure like to drive this car.Any further info/comments or words of advice any of you guys can add would really be appreciated.So much to learn and so many of you guys with years of experience with the cars...what a great site!
Sounds like a good plan. The benefit of the UCA (upper control arms) is they allow better alignment specs. You should be looking for .5-.75 degree negative camber and 3-5 degrees positive caster with factory toe settings. Its hard to impossible to get there with factory UCA's thus the recommendation to go with the FFI arms.
The only other comment is if you like the result and want to firm things up even more with bigger T bars, I would suggest more frame and K member stiffening. Frame connectors and a fully welded/gusseted K would be on the list. No point in having real stiff springs at the 4 corners of the car and the chassis flexing in the middle. Not necessary for your plan as is.
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Re: What suspension mods are in YOUR B body?
[Re: redmist]
#1151310
02/05/12 08:02 PM
02/05/12 08:02 PM
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 804
central CT
cudazappa
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 804
central CT
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Its been discussed before and the consensus (last I checked) was that the separate tube (not the floor contoured connectors) were the strongest option.
Can't comment on the weld the k-frame idea though. In theory it should work. But I've also changed small block pans with then engine and K in the car just by lifting the engine off the mounts a bit. Not sure if the Big Block pan has any other caveats to it...
1971 Challenger
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Re: What suspension mods are in YOUR B body?
[Re: redmist]
#1151311
02/05/12 11:44 PM
02/05/12 11:44 PM
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
Kern Dog
OP
Striving for excellence
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OP
Striving for excellence
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
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Quote:
I am also thinking about cutting my K member so the oil pan could be dropped. And then fabricating a bolt in joining section to replace what I cut out. That way I could get the pan off the engine if need be. I could then weld the K member to the rails.
My thoughts are the following: The K member is subjected to great amounts of torsional stress. The stronger the K member is, the more it resists flexing. Anything that is bolted in place is inferior to a welded member, all else being equal.
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