Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: Commando1]
#1147250
12/31/11 11:04 AM
12/31/11 11:04 AM
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,177 ill
dennismopar73
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,177
ill
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Quote:
I don't know if it's my imagination, paranoia, or what, but I swear as time goes on that the Moog quality that we used to know and trust has gone downhill as their production moves more and more over to China and they have to compete with price on all the crap that's out there. Or is it just me?
You are correct! Almost everything is now being made either China or Mexico, do you remember NAFTA? Ross Paroe? said it best, that giant sucking sound is the jobs leaving the US! What we have is the we shoot ourselfs in the foot, because now we no longer make those parts here, but we do not even posses the building to make them as well! Now we have to wait as those countrys pull their wages and economy up to where we are, then those jobs, or most will come back here. It is stated, that Mexico will take 10-15 years to get their citizens up to our standards, that was 5-6 years ago. Now the issue is if there is issue with a part here, it takes months to get the part changed over there, thus you see issues with quaility in the same part over and over! Thanks that the parts are still 'lifetime' replacements!!
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Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: Commando1]
#1147252
12/31/11 01:52 PM
12/31/11 01:52 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,480 So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
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So Cal
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Quote:
I don't know if it's my imagination, paranoia, or what, but I swear as time goes on that the Moog quality that we used to know and trust has gone downhill as their production moves more and more over to China and they have to compete with price on all the crap that's out there. Or is it just me?
I bought a brand new Moog 73-76 idler arm from Rock Auto eariler this year. I have 2500 miles on it. The ball joint on the end has up and down movement in it.
The one I had before that last 20K+ miles.
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Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: cjskotni]
#1147254
12/31/11 07:42 PM
12/31/11 07:42 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,784 Corpus Christi, TX
shanker
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,784
Corpus Christi, TX
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Ive given up on all parts store brands and only run XRF chassis stuff now...and its actually lower priced than Moog.. http://www.xrfchassis.com/
The Federal Government has not yet learned that you cannot legislate morality
1970 Coronet R/T FF4/FF8/V85/V1G 440/Auto/3.23
1970 Coronet R/T FK5/FK5/V8W/V1W 440/Auto/3.55
1970 Super Bee TX9/TX9/V8W/N96 383/Auto/3.91
1975 Duster 360 VS29L5 Daily Driver
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Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: MoparDonny]
#1147258
01/05/12 07:15 AM
01/05/12 07:15 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,575 The Netherlands
BigBlockMopar
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,575
The Netherlands
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Quote:
About 8 years ago I changed the idler arm on my 71 Challenger and it was the poops when i got it but it was better than the original. now that I have a greater appreciation in handling i want to put a good (tight) idler arm on it. I dont remember where I got this last one but Im hoping that all the idlers arent loose like this. It really is the poops. Any experiences with this type of junk? I hope some of the locals might have parts for comparison.
You haven't said what part of the idler arm has worn? If it's the balljoint, I can't be of much help.
But if it's the bushing-part then you might want to consider changing it out for a solid nylon or ballbearing-version. IMO a great deal of steering linkage play comes from wimpy rubber bushings which also lets the arm go up and down, instead of only left and right. Up/down-movement of the idler arm lets the pass.side tire be able to vary into a different direction then the driver-side tire. This can give a mushy/sloppy feel in the steeringwheel.
I always change out the rubber bushing for a 2-part nylon version, which I happen to be able to make on my lathe myself.
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Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: Commando1]
#1147259
01/05/12 11:33 AM
01/05/12 11:33 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,092 A Banana Republic near you.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,092
A Banana Republic near you.
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Quote:
I don't know if it's my imagination, paranoia, or what, but I swear as time goes on that the Moog quality that we used to know and trust has gone downhill as their production moves more and more over to China and they have to compete with price on all the crap that's out there. Or is it just me?
No it's not just you.
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Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: BigBlockMopar]
#1147261
01/15/12 05:51 PM
01/15/12 05:51 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,760 Port Alberni, British Columbia
MoparDonny
OP
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OP
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,760
Port Alberni, British Columbia
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Quote:
You haven't said what part of the idler arm has worn? If it's the balljoint, I can't be of much help.
But if it's the bushing-part then you might want to consider changing it out for a solid nylon or ballbearing-version. IMO a great deal of steering linkage play comes from wimpy rubber bushings which also lets the arm go up and down, instead of only left and right. Up/down-movement of the idler arm lets the pass.side tire be able to vary into a different direction then the driver-side tire. This can give a mushy/sloppy feel in the steeringwheel.
I always change out the rubber bushing for a 2-part nylon version, which I happen to be able to make on my lathe myself.
It's the bushing part. And IIRC it was sloppy from the get-go but i needed it quick and it was cheap and in stock. I ordered a MOOG to have a look. Im done with settling for iffy parts. If it has any slop its going back right away this time.
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Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: Rick_Ehrenberg]
#1147265
01/21/12 01:10 AM
01/21/12 01:10 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,480 So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,480
So Cal
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Rick I bought a Moog idler for my 73-76 A-body K-member and the darn ball joint is loose after about 2500 miles. Is Moog quality going to pot? Or did have a fluke bum part (it happens)?
Last edited by autoxcuda; 01/21/12 01:19 AM.
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Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: Rick_Ehrenberg]
#1147266
01/21/12 01:16 AM
01/21/12 01:16 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,480 So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
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Posts: 27,480
So Cal
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Quote:
Bit of trivia:
Despite many people who think otherwise, OEM suspension / steering parts were not mfg by Moog (now Federal-Mogul). They were made in-house by Chrysler at New Castle Forge!
The ones I scored (see B and E-body parts for sale sections) are made to OEM Mopar blueprints and are very, very nice clones. I bought a pallet of 'em to get us the super deal.
Rick
On yours, are the inner thru bolt bushing a plain metal bushing or OE rubber or like some aftermarket stuff nylon?
Does the ball joint on the outer have a zerk fitting?
Thats looks one heck of a lot more stock looking compared to the square aftermarket stuff that's on the market now.
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