Re: 90's Ram 4x4, bad tranny
[Re: 79powerwagon]
#114461
09/03/08 08:59 AM
09/03/08 08:59 AM
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JohnRR
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Quote:
I'm well aware of the tranny problems these trucks have had. I can get a sweet, clean 4x4 (98) for under a grand, but no reverse.
I can find my way around a 727 without even trying, how different are these? Or is this one of those things that I should leave it to a shop?
Also, what is the real reason for their failure, so it won't happen again?
piece of cake , it's pretty much a 727 from the back of maincase forward , the rear drum is held in place by a retaining ring and the rear band is different , but you'd swear it was a 727.
failure , the typical , either the front clutch is not working so it would have no 3rd gear , or a rear servo/band problem . they use electronic circuit for the gov. which is a plus.
front clutch problem could be the inner piston seal, the groove in the drum is machined too deep and after many many heat cycles it gets hard and stop sealing , the way to tell is to put it in reverse and the truck will not go into gear then all of a sudden slam hard into reverse , but since you have no reverse .... they sell a seal that is modified to take care of this issue , a new seal kit from transtar includes both seals
sonnex sells a modified OD piston retainer , get one it has an o ring seal to the case and modified surface that the drum rides on to prevent galling , add a .060 hole in the case to feed the sprag assembly like you would on a 727 .
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Re: 90's Ram 4x4, bad tranny
[Re: 79powerwagon]
#114463
09/03/08 09:27 AM
09/03/08 09:27 AM
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JohnRR
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Quote:
Cool! Sounds easy enough!
Well, easy is a relative term when yanking a tranny and transfer case out of a 4x4... 
Words of advise , been there got the battle scars .
First is you MUST SPREAD the frame to get the trans crossmember out , you might be able to  the snot out of it to get it out but there is NO WAY it's going back in without MORE .
There is an access hole on the inside of the frame rail just behind the crossmember , I'll have to look at mine tonight but you put the jacking tool of your choice , a 4ton porta power works best but I have used a bottle jack and a jacking screw setup before I got the bottle jack in the past , on the bottom edge of the frame rail at I am pretty sure the rear corner of the hole , just spread the frame enough so you can lift the crossmember up and out the rear after you have jacked up the trans/transfercase and removed the trans mount , then release the pressure off the frame , do the same thing in that order to put it back in . there are 4 holes on the outside of the framerail to get to the nuts for the trans crossmember bolts . Trans hardware is SAE , crossmember stuff is METRIC 
The easiest way to handle the assembly now is to REMOVE the transfer case , lower the trans just enough so you can get a stubby ratcheting 9/16 wrench on the top bolts , drain the transfer case first , its not that hard to handle alone , use a floor jack or better a trans jack . Then pull off the trans , best way to get the trans to engine bolts is a LONG extension and a impact grade SWIVEL 9/16 socket .
Reverse disassembly procedure
I have done it a couple times on my back ALONE in about an hour or so.
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Re: 90's Ram 4x4, bad tranny
[Re: RodStRace]
#114465
09/03/08 10:06 AM
09/03/08 10:06 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,020
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
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Quote:
No personal experience, but a buddy told me the common issue is control solenoids with small screens that plug, causing low line pressures which cause the friction surfaces to smoke due to slipping.
I would try to avoid doing the R & I more than once, so I'd look into every upgrade and tip for longevity. Maybe even see if there is a local shop that has a transmission dyno. 
The solenoids with the small screens are only for control of the lockup clutch in the convertor and the fluid path to apply overdrive , no effect on the line pressure of the unit . The VB looks like a 727/904 unit with another plate bolted on the side the filter bolts to to control the lockup and the OD .
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