Re: RPM users, care to share tips/ experiences?
[Re: burdar]
#1142095
12/23/11 11:31 PM
12/23/11 11:31 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Quote:
I really like the look of the new packaging. I'm not a fan of the plastic container. It looks kind of cheap and the inner section spins inside the outer shell when I screw the lid back on. I have no complaints with the product itself.
Hi Darren, Thanks for the feedback on the container, we were seeing the same thing on some containers. I think you will find the new container more robust. It's made of a different,stronger material and is a single wall construction vs the old two piece. Combine it with the new metal lid and you won't see any dimensional change in the container. The new container rolls into production next week.
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Re: RPM users, care to share tips/ experiences?
[Re: kielbasa]
#1142101
12/24/11 02:13 PM
12/24/11 02:13 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,756 London, England
Gavin
top fuel
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I have been spending a lot more time in the kitchen lately (using wifey's oven and cookie sheets) - preheat my parts to 180~200 degF and have fun brushing parts with the kids.
I have to ask - doesn't this stink the kitchen out? If not then I will do this myself - I had a problem doing my steering box, couldn't get the whole thing warm enough and ended up applying to a small area at a time and using the heat gun - but I don't think this has really achieved the job, I think I need to heat it all up and it will melt properly and leave the finish I've achieved on smaller parts.
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Re: RPM users, care to share tips/ experiences?
[Re: mikemee1331]
#1142104
12/24/11 02:45 PM
12/24/11 02:45 PM
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Quote:
this might sound silly but i gotta ask. how do you know when the to-be-treated object is hot enough. the instructions say 120 but is that just a 'close enough' number? can you tell by how it flows?
Hi Everyone,
I'm seeing a lot of great questions about RPM. I'll try and give the short version on a couple I have seen.
1. How hot does the part need to be? We recommend above 120 degrees. After you practice on a test piece you'll find the ratio of heat to product flowing.When the part is warmed you will notice that RPM flows when applied. I use a heat gun but we have people who have used hair dryers, ovens, radiant heat, even putting the part out in the sun during the summer. I don't recomment torches or flame type heat since we don't need the part glowing red and most flames will leave residue and soot. On large pieces you can work in sections. We treated the driveshaft by heating about a 12-18 inch section and working from one end to the other. Remember always wear appropiate protection when handling warmed parts. Don't forget adequate ventilation.
2. Painting over RPM. Most paint manufacturers recommend natural clean surfaces for adhesion. If you oiled a part then tried to paint over it you wouldn't get great results. Even painting some paints over other paints isn't satisfactory ( laquer vs enamel).
3. RPM over paint. RPM will provide an additional layer of protection. As pointed out above sometimes you see corrosion on painted parts. I recently treated a K-Frame on a late model builder project for additional protection. Most paints will withstand the normal heat range that you use to apply RPM
All great questions. Thanks for everyone passing on their own personal techniques.
Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays.
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Re: RPM users, care to share tips/ experiences?
[Re: mikemee1331]
#1142105
12/24/11 02:55 PM
12/24/11 02:55 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 354
kielbasa
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Posts: 354
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Quote:
this might sound silly but i gotta ask. how do you know when the to-be-treated object is hot enough. the instructions say 120 but is that just a 'close enough' number? can you tell by how it flows?
i found that the temp is warm enough when the RPM looks "wet" once you brush it on - it brushes on granular if not warm enough.
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Re: RPM users, care to share tips/ experiences?
[Re: kielbasa]
#1142106
12/26/11 03:49 PM
12/26/11 03:49 PM
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Anonymous
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i found that the temp is warm enough when the RPM looks "wet" once you brush it on - it brushes on granular if not warm enough.
Great tip !
I find it works good to have the heat gun in one hand and the RPM brush in the other. Use the heat as needed to keep the surface temp up so the product flows when applied. RPM goes on glossy which helps you verify you get complete coverage then dries to a satin finish. RPM can also be reheated once applied to blend in or remove excess product.
Using the heat gun for a quick blast( 2-3 seconds) into the RPM container will soften the product if you feel you need to apply a larger amount. We have found that heating the part works best for application so it flows when applied. Different metals retain heat differently ( a cast part with more mass vs a sheet metal part cool at differnt rates)
Does anyone have any non automotive uses for RPM?
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Re: RPM users, care to share tips/ experiences?
[Re: DartGTS]
#1142108
12/27/11 03:55 AM
12/27/11 03:55 AM
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Hi Maynard,
Heating the part allows RPM to flow out when applied with the brush( which we supply with the product). A heat gun or hair dryer will provide enough heat to warm the part. We have used RPM on the head pipe of Project Valiant for corrosion protection. Exhaust manifolds are a completely different heat profile approaching 1000 degrees and while we haven't tested this area I would have reservations.
We have several people reporting they have used RPM on aluminum carbs ( AVS-AFB) to prevent that white corrosion on aluminum. RPM works great on suspension, cast and stamped parts plus sheet metal in the bare areas under the dash and shelf panel. Got a set of non coated aluminum wheels? It works great to retain that polished look that goes away so quick with out protection.
Thanks for the question PS - always great to have a shout out to a fellow GTS owner( LS27P9B)
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Re: RPM users, care to share tips/ experiences?
[Re: DartGTS]
#1142110
12/29/11 12:49 PM
12/29/11 12:49 PM
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,556 Sweden
71redcuda
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,556
Sweden
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Im thinking i maby could use RPM on the clamps/heads of the battery cables.. Have anyone tried? What color/shade should the heads have from factory? Are the heads made of bare metal or did they have some kind of coating or other material? If i clean them off with steel wool and then put on the RPM i afraid to get a wrong shade/color on the heads.. I want it to look original. Nicklas
Last edited by 71redcuda; 12/29/11 12:54 PM.
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Re: RPM users, care to share tips/ experiences?
[Re: NV69B7RR]
#1142112
01/06/12 10:23 PM
01/06/12 10:23 PM
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,165 Florida
cataclysm80
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Posts: 4,165
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Quote:
How do you remove RPM from metal?
possibly paint stripper or lacquer thinner, but since you can't see RPM after proper application, it would be difficult to tell if you got it all off. Maybe try one of those hot caustic tanks that machine shops use? Any other ideas?
Tav
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Re: RPM users, care to share tips/ experiences?
#1142113
01/06/12 10:28 PM
01/06/12 10:28 PM
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,165 Florida
cataclysm80
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Quote:
Hi We have several people reporting they have used RPM on aluminum carbs ( AVS-AFB) to prevent that white corrosion on aluminum.
My great uncle bought a V8 Ford in 1938. We don't drive it very often, and the inside of the fuel pump filled up with that white corrosion stuff. It's an aluminum pump that comes apart into two halves with a rubber diaphram in between. Could I use RPM inside the fuel pump?
Is RPM fuel resistant? (I'm guessing so if they're using it on carbs, but maybe they're only using it on the outside?)
Tav
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Re: RPM users, care to share tips/ experiences?
[Re: cataclysm80]
#1142114
01/07/12 05:52 AM
01/07/12 05:52 AM
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,992 midwest
68427vette
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do MOPARTS members get a discount??? i sandblast for several hot rod/resto shops , i cant wait to get some!! do you have a distributor in columbus ohio? home of mopars.. jc
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