I am looking at a used engine that has an R3 block. The casting number on it is P4552910. I don't find that block listed anywhere! Is this just a casting number then the block are machined to the different specs for the different R3 block part numbers? How do i tell what this assmebled engine really is for a block? Thanks in advance for the help.

get ahould ryan @ shady dell speed shop & he can tell, about the only thing i can tell is look at the front of block if the water holes are round its a tall deck,half moon shape its short deck, check cam brg. holes if all are the same its roller brg. if steped(different sizes)its regular cam brg., ryans # is 8143088058

Difference in timing cover?

This stuff aint Rocket Science. It took me a while to realize a simple tape measure is the best way to check out a block. If you are looking at pictures then resort to things that are common to specific blocks. But, half moon holes vs full round is a bad way to code blocks.

Meaure the crank centerline to the deck surface. Very easy the only trick is finding crank centerline. That's half the crank diameter a small calculation on most any cell phone calculator and you are done.

9 9/16" is very close to a tall deck. Since that is 9.5625" and tall decks are advertised at 9.580" and some slip in just over 9.600". Most people will not notice that with a tape measure. Bore is also easy to measure. A flashlight can easily tell you if it is siamese bore or not. The head bolt arrangement is also easy. The cam tunnel requires knowing the cam tunnel bore for diffenent arrangements. Sometimes that requires a phone call if you do not have some known blocks around to measure from. The lifter angle is also fairly easy. 59 degree is easy to determine. 48 is the most common is the optional angle. Some 9.200" and shorter blocks were done 47. This is no biggy as all it changes is the cam ordering information.

HAPPY BLOCK HUNTING

Leon

Ther should be a three digit P/N on the front drivers side of the block. That is the identifying part number.

The babbitt bearing blocks are different from your garden variety LA...........they are not stepped.
A peek at the main bearing caps will tell you if it is machined for an internal oil pump , or if you need external or dry sump.
340 or 360.........or small ford journals will require more than a glance to determine , and the same for oil pan........most were 340 , some were 360.

The Ford main blocks are narrowed in the caps and web to accomodate the narrow bearing.

The 340 -360 deal is a little more difficult because most all of them use a rear cap for 360 pans. A few have thought they had a 360 block by looking at the rear cap and later found they were wrong.

Leon