Re: road race big blocks
[Re: smracing]
#1106443
11/03/11 12:19 AM
11/03/11 12:19 AM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,664 IN
ahy
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,664
IN
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Quote:
tearing the motor out looking to build a rb looking at 3500 to 7000 head and cam choices going to try to stay with my 6 pak 391 gears 3500 stall speed looking for a pump gas dont mind turning rpms on the 2 lane for a few miles buying new heads looking at possible stroker kits any and all help Thanks Mike
What kind of road race... Silver State Challenge (sustained 100+ MPH), drag or something else? I'll assume Silver State Challenge. If it is something else, consider this a bump.
For a stock block RB... Good breathing heads like Edelbrock Victor with MW ports. For the stroke, don't go crazy on the stroker for sustained operation at RPM. 4.15 stroke max. Aluminum main caps and/or plate recommended. For induction, the 6 pk has amazing potential for torque and drivability, but not the best for high RPM power. Go with a single 4 900-1000 CFM on a high rise single plane manifold like a Victor. For the convertor, slip=heat. The less the better. 3500 stall may be too much. Contact a good convertor manufacturer for a recommendation. Whatever you get will need a big trans cooler. For rear, you will likley need 2.76 or max 3.23. For the cam, 255 ish degrees at .050 duration mechanical flat tappet.
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Re: road race big blocks
[Re: ahy]
#1106444
11/03/11 08:18 AM
11/03/11 08:18 AM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,862 the frozen wastes...
Pale_Roader
Swears too much
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Swears too much
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,862
the frozen wastes...
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Your FIRST point should be to rule out the RB block. If you need cubes you can build them from a 400 just as easily. A little bit smaller dimensionally, a little lower in the chassis, and (usually) a little lighter overall.
Personally, i'd want something around a stock stroke 400 with good aluminum heads, good reciprocating assy and valvetrain. Something that'll be happy turning at speed all day long.
Before i decided to go modern for my road-race Challenger i had figured for a (steel 383 crank) 406 (or an offset-grind stroked 426) lowdeck, ported Stage 6 heads, ported single plane intake, big Holley, 11ish:1 compression, tight quench, big cam and a work ov art exhaust system.
There are a couple killer 400-ish lowdeck builds in the race section right now.
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Re: road race big blocks
[Re: MoparforLife]
#1106446
11/03/11 01:50 PM
11/03/11 01:50 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,392 nielsville, minn.
quickd100
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,392
nielsville, minn.
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Quote:
fastredbrick@netzero.net Contact Joel - He knows teh game. Been in it a long time.
Joel Hannig. This car has been around. Started as a drag/street car and has been for several years a road racer. Google Joel Hannig
X2! Joel has averaged over 200mph with the Polara 500. Real fun guy to talk to.Dave
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Re: road race big blocks
[Re: smracing]
#1106448
11/03/11 10:48 PM
11/03/11 10:48 PM
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,632 SHELBY TWP,,MICHIGAN
72N96RR
I LOVE WEDGIES
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I LOVE WEDGIES
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,632
SHELBY TWP,,MICHIGAN
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I agree with the one above post..Start off with a 400 block and build a 500hp screamer with a much lighter rotating assembly..I have a 1974 400 block that has already been checked if interested..
1972 Road Runner / GTX 440 4spd Dana 3.54 Just about to turn 26K original miles..
A boat, a GMC truck, some Craftsman Tools, LOTS of Zombie Protection, and a few Goldfish..
If you love someone set them free.. If they come back it means nobody else wanted them either..!!
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Re: road race big blocks
[Re: PHJ426]
#1106452
11/04/11 10:50 PM
11/04/11 10:50 PM
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 490 IL
EchoSixMike
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 490
IL
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B block, BCR caps and girdle, 3.90 stroke, 6.70 rods for about 470". Dry sump if you can afford it. Victor heads, ported standard window are good baseline. I'd go Ferrea hollow intakes, beehive springs and Schubeck lifters on about 260@.050, .600'ish lift cam with 1.6 rockers, Hughes, T&D or HS. S/F....Ken M
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Re: road race big blocks
[Re: smracing]
#1106453
11/05/11 08:25 AM
11/05/11 08:25 AM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,696 Bitopia
jcc
If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
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If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,696
Bitopia
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How about this, just get a cheap or free good running 318, slap a alum intake on it with long tube headers, get your car dialed in with suspension and brakes, which will take a decent amount of time, quickly learn the driver is the biggest limiting factor in RR, seat time will easily surpass all mentioned engine ideas so far, ditch the slush box, and then consider how much wasted effort money and time would be spent with a huge heavy front end RB that is mainly good at lighting up the rear tires at every corner exit, and then after all the above, build a upper rpm alum head mild SB stroker when you realise allmost all competitive passing is done at the end of the straight at braking, not out torqueing the other guy.
Reality check, that half the population is smarter then 50% of the people and it's a constantly contested fact.
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Re: road race big blocks
[Re: jcc]
#1106455
11/07/11 05:16 AM
11/07/11 05:16 AM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,862 the frozen wastes...
Pale_Roader
Swears too much
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Swears too much
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,862
the frozen wastes...
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Quote:
How about this, just get a cheap or free good running 318, slap a alum intake on it with long tube headers, get your car dialed in with suspension and brakes, which will take a decent amount of time, quickly learn the driver is the biggest limiting factor in RR, seat time will easily surpass all mentioned engine ideas so far, ditch the slush box, and then consider how much wasted effort money and time would be spent with a huge heavy front end RB that is mainly good at lighting up the rear tires at every corner exit, and then after all the above, build a upper rpm alum head mild SB stroker when you realise allmost all competitive passing is done at the end of the straight at braking, not out torqueing the other guy.
Awesome, and the best plan here.
Very much like my own plan, only my tiny V8 will be backed by a 5-speed. The big block money will be spent on the suspension instead. Only need to find the coin for some good wheels and tires now....
The best road racing i've ever done was in a stock-ish 96 Mustang GT.
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Re: road race big blocks
[Re: Pale_Roader]
#1106457
11/08/11 08:09 PM
11/08/11 08:09 PM
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,456 Fly Over States
PHJ426
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,456
Fly Over States
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Quote:
Awesome, and the best plan here.
Very much like my own plan, only my tiny V8 will be backed by a 5-speed. The big block money will be spent on the suspension instead. Only need to find the coin for some good wheels and tires now....
The best road racing i've ever done was in a stock-ish 96 Mustang GT.
How is building a small block Mopar cheaper than building a big block Mopar?
Building a 5.0 Ford motor is way cheaper than both of them.
Since we are on the subject, if you really want to build a car that handles get a Mazda Miata no worries there about lighting the tires up coming out the corner with it and forget about the Mopar deal all together...
Almost forgot I was logged into Moparts for a little bit there.......
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Re: road race big blocks
[Re: PHJ426]
#1106459
11/09/11 01:36 PM
11/09/11 01:36 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,696 Bitopia
jcc
If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
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If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,696
Bitopia
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Quote:
How is building a small block Mopar cheaper than building a big block Mopar?
Building a 5.0 Ford motor is way cheaper than both of them.
Since we are on the subject, if you really want to build a car that handles get a Mazda Miata no worries there about lighting the tires up coming out the corner with it and forget about the Mopar deal all together...
Almost forgot I was logged into Moparts for a little bit there.......
1. Because I mentioned a good running 318 could very likely be found for free for the asking, not so likely with a BB 2. You are correct about the 5.0 Mustang motor being cheaper, since this is a Mopar site, I suspect the OP would have to be paid big bucks to install one 3. Anyone who wants to build any car for RR that doesn't concern himself with handling, should only run a 1/4 mile at time. 4. There are likely very few muscle mopars that have ever handled as well as Miata, its a worthy car to emulate in handling. 5. And if watching a Miatas tailights fade in the distance as one lights up the rear tires while counter steering, enjoy that nose heavy iron headed BB. 6. There can be a place for a monster big block, but IMO its not the time for the OP.
Reality check, that half the population is smarter then 50% of the people and it's a constantly contested fact.
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Re: road race big blocks
[Re: jcc]
#1106460
11/09/11 01:47 PM
11/09/11 01:47 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200 Upper Midwest
MoparforLife
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200
Upper Midwest
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Quote:
Quote:
fastredbrick@netzero.net Contact Joel - He knows teh game. Been in it a long time.
Joel Hannig. This car has been around. Started as a drag/street car and has been for several years a road racer. Google Joel Hannig
I sent him an email, waiting for a reply. The Polara has many little very nice and looks to be well thought out finesse touches. Can you attach a high quality pic that I can zoom in and get further detail? Thanks
Am I correct in that it is big block and has a 50 gal methanol fuel tank?
I haven't seen the car or Joel for a while. Last he sold his place in ND and move to Tx. I am not sure but I think that he is driving truck.
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Re: road race big blocks
[Re: MoparforLife]
#1106461
11/09/11 08:47 PM
11/09/11 08:47 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,376
dogdays
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,376
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