I need to get it inspected but the check engine light is on because of an O2 sensor issue. Can I use those spark plug extensions, heard they work to fix the problem. Does anyone know where to get them? Also, does someone knoww how to use a Predator to turn off the light?

-Daty

Do you know if they do an OBD2 scan during the inspection process? In NC they do and if there are more than 1 readiness monitors in "not ready" status that is a fail. When you clear the check engine light all the monitors go to "not ready" until the drive cycle has been completed for each monitor which should re-trip the CE lamp. Why are the long tubes tripping the light? are there no O2 sensors mounted in the headers? Did you remove the cats and/or the after cat O2 sensors?
Curt

Pretty much all Texas does is hook up to a scanner on new cars. I replaced the cats with new ones that came with the headers, there is a place for the O2 sensors and they were reinstalled. When I've cleared the code it comes back on after a few miles. My problem is Kirby can tell if I turned the light off.

-Daty

Do you happen to know what the code is?
Curt

It's for the rear O2 sensors, don't remember the number of it though.

-Daty

Very Very common and good luck. Seriously, there are so many folks on the Challenger websites that have the issue. Sometimes those antifoulers work in front of the o2 sensor, but still a crap shoot from what I seen. Some guys get a custom tune written for the car that keeps that light from triggering. It used to be an option in the predator programmer, but it had to come out for obvious reasons.

If it is a catalyst efficiency code... from my perspective...you are done. I myself have no experience with O2 simulators but I have seen them on other cars. If you still have the old converters perhaps they can have a flange welded on and then attached to the headers. That MAY work. I have seen a lot of problems on jeeps and chryslers when using Bosch or aftermarket O2 sensors. I think it is the heater circuit, but I can not remember for sure. Maybe post for help on the LX forums. Sorry.
Curt

Also stay clear of any of the universal fit o2 sensors. They will give you trouble for sure.

NTK replacement oxygen sensors work well if you do need to replace your rear O2's. You will definitely have to try the anti-foulers, most decent auto parts stores should have them. You may have to modify and/or drill them out and possibly stack more than one or stuff some steel wool in them to get them to work right. I ended up putting my stock SRT8 manifolds and cats back on my car to get through emissions, but it was that both my rear O2's were bad also... *shrugs* So that being said, Try the non-foulers/anti-foulers trick, or get rear O2 simulators possibly? If you have an older rev crom on your predator v9r18 or earlier, you can still turn off the rear O2's but it will not set a readyness code for them so you still won't pass an OBDII scanner. I went away from the headers all together and just made some cat-less mids I plan to use when not doing emissions and swap back when I need to get through emissions again. I know my car will pass with the supercharger and the cats and canned tune from Vortech. Custom tune and cat-less mids is for the rest of the time! It is 3 drive cycles to set the readyness codes, give or take, from my own experience. Good luck!

Just want to say that I have a Mazdaspeed3 that I've changed the catalytic converter on twice and couldn't get the CEL to stop coming on randomly. Installed an antifouler between the bung and O2 sensor and the light hasn't come on in 2000 miles. Car runs just as good as before but some say it can cause lean issues.

You can get the antifoulers at the local auto parts store for $7. Not sure which one you need but there are a few sizes to choose from. You'll have to drill the anitfouler out with a 1/2 drill, basically acting as a spacer to pull the sensor out of the exhaust path a little.