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Again with the kill switch deal! #1103811
10/29/11 07:23 PM
10/29/11 07:23 PM
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Just want to double check this, so here's the setup:
'64 Plymouth, OEM alternator, battery moved to rear, 4-post kill switch from Speedway. Also have a + post on the LF apron for the MSD, fuel pump & etc and the starter can feed from that using the stock batt cable with the terminal changed.
Speedway's instructions show alt Power to one (small) kill post, alt Field to the other. No reference to regulator. FSM wiring diagram shows a few things powered by the stock alternator.
Seems incompatible, and after doing a search, I didn't see anyone in 3 pages that has the same setup as mine.
I know the drill for a 1-wire (like my racecar), but not this. No plans for relays & etc, wiring's protected from any shorts. No stereo, AC, etc to feed.
Also, what's the deal with jumping the starter terminals?
Apologies & Thanks in advance!

Re: Again with the kill switch deal! [Re: topside] #1103812
10/29/11 10:05 PM
10/29/11 10:05 PM
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Looking at it again, seems the Speedway diagram is wrong for my car. I'll just wire the alternator power to the battery with a length of 8-gauge and that should work. Otherwise it gets into all sorts of wiring harness mods.

Re: Again with the kill switch deal! [Re: topside] #1103813
10/29/11 10:36 PM
10/29/11 10:36 PM
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dvw Offline
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Quote:

Just want to double check this, so here's the setup:
'64 Plymouth, OEM alternator, battery moved to rear, 4-post kill switch from Speedway. Also have a + post on the LF apron for the MSD, fuel pump & etc and the starter can feed from that using the stock batt cable with the terminal changed.
Speedway's instructions show alt Power to one (small) kill post, alt Field to the other. No reference to regulator. FSM wiring diagram shows a few things powered by the stock alternator.
Seems incompatible, and after doing a search, I didn't see anyone in 3 pages that has the same setup as mine.
I know the drill for a 1-wire (like my racecar), but not this. No plans for relays & etc, wiring's protected from any shorts. No stereo, AC, etc to feed.
Also, what's the deal with jumping the starter terminals?
Apologies & Thanks in advance!



You can open either the field between the alt and regulator,the hot feed to the regulator,or the alternator output. The advantage of the 4 post switch is that you only need small gauge wire from the rear of the car,no need to run the alt output all the way back. That's why I would open the regulator wiring. One small post of the switch to the alt field terminal. The other small post to the regulator. This will open the field circuit.
Doug

Re: Again with the kill switch deal! [Re: dvw] #1103814
10/29/11 11:03 PM
10/29/11 11:03 PM
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So if I understand you correctly, use the switch to interrupt the Field circuit instead of the Power circuit?
As in Alt Field to Switch, Switch to Regulator Field?
For trickle-charging the battery, would the switch need to be on if the charger is connected to a Batt + post & a Ground?
As long as it kills the motor, the Tech guy will be happy.

Re: Again with the kill switch deal! [Re: topside] #1103815
10/30/11 10:44 AM
10/30/11 10:44 AM
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You understand the wiring correctly. The battery will charge with the switch in either position.
Doug

Re: Again with the kill switch deal! [Re: dvw] #1103816
10/30/11 01:29 PM
10/30/11 01:29 PM
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Thanks, makes sense; since the alternator is basically a magnetic field, killing either side of the circuit kills the output. Smaller wire for field side is a bonus.

Re: Again with the kill switch deal! [Re: topside] #1103817
10/30/11 02:12 PM
10/30/11 02:12 PM
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Sounds like the switch is set up for an internally regulated(one wire) alternator. As long as ignition voltage is killed, the switch will do it's job.


Yeah, it's got a smallblock.
Re: Again with the kill switch deal! [Re: 340B5] #1103818
10/30/11 03:06 PM
10/30/11 03:06 PM
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Judging by the wiring diagram that came with it, it's not for the 1-wire style; it showed a regulator separate from the alternator, with external wiring. Looks like a good switch with an acceptable rating, likely a knock-off of a Pollack or something.

Re: Again with the kill switch deal! [Re: topside] #1103819
10/30/11 09:35 PM
10/30/11 09:35 PM
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Why not just wire your hot wire for your MSD to the cut-off switch?

Re: Again with the kill switch deal! [Re: 70HemiGTX] #1103820
10/30/11 09:41 PM
10/30/11 09:41 PM
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Because it won't keep the car running when its power is shut off, but an alternator will. MSD on this car is wired to Batt + post underhood, which will be shut off by the kill switch.

Re: Again with the kill switch deal! [Re: 70HemiGTX] #1103821
11/01/11 09:33 AM
11/01/11 09:33 AM
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Quote:

Why not just wire your hot wire for your MSD to the cut-off switch?




I agree! I ran the pos batt cable to one side of the switch. The other side to the starter. Then ran the power lead from the MSD to the smaller post on the disconnect switch. From there to the batt. When the switch is open, it will kill power to everything and also kill 12V to the MSD killing the ignition. Why mess with the Alt? PITA
Good Luck!

Re: Again with the kill switch deal! [Re: Gearhead383] #1103822
11/02/11 12:08 AM
11/02/11 12:08 AM
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Quote:

Quote:

Why not just wire your hot wire for your MSD to the cut-off switch?




I agree! I ran the pos batt cable to one side of the switch. The other side to the starter. Then ran the power lead from the MSD to the smaller post on the disconnect switch. From there to the batt. When the switch is open, it will kill power to everything and also kill 12V to the MSD killing the ignition. Why mess with the Alt? PITA
Good Luck!




Also that is how I did my car. Keep it simple.







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