School me on Valve Lash... A couple of questions.
#1096570
10/17/11 09:34 PM
10/17/11 09:34 PM
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Damned67
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Hi All, I'm new to the solid (lifter) cam scene, always run hydraulic in the past. I just did the lash on the weekend, and have a bunch of questions. 1) What's your 'rule of thumb' on how often the lash should be set/checked? 2) Spark plugs in or out when turning the engine by hand? 3) What effect does having the lash looser or tighter than the cam card specs have? 4) If using lash caps, does the lash setting need to be altered from that on the cam card? 5) I followed the Mopar Performance Valve Lash chart (turning the engine 90 degrees each time). Now, if I'm a touch off on the 90 degrees (although my damper is marked every 90, so I can get it nice and close), it shouldn't matter too much as the lifter/pushrod/valve will be on the base circle/heel of the lobe, right? Sorry for the seemingly simple questions.
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Re: School me on Valve Lash... A couple of questions.
[Re: Damned67]
#1096571
10/17/11 09:40 PM
10/17/11 09:40 PM
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Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
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(1) No opinion (2) in if your a weight lifter, out if not (3) not sure (4) no but it MAY alter wipe pattern and or pushrod length needed but that small of a height change may be insignificant (others will chime in on that) (5) right. PS sometimes simple Q's are all we can handle
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: School me on Valve Lash... A couple of questions.
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1096575
10/18/11 06:03 PM
10/18/11 06:03 PM
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mikemee1331
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Quote:
(1) No opinion (2) in if your a weight lifter, out if not (3) not sure (4) no but it MAY alter wipe pattern and or pushrod length needed but that small of a height change may be insignificant (others will chime in on that) (5) right. PS sometimes simple Q's are all we can handle
a little more info would also help with getting things answered. street car, drag, 6-banger, what are we working on? the tolerances can be different.
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Re: School me on Valve Lash... A couple of questions.
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1096576
10/18/11 08:27 PM
10/18/11 08:27 PM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,664 IN
ahy
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I've done mine both hot and cold to confirm the "rule of thumb" that hot lash is 4-5 000's more than cold lash on an aluminum headed iron block engine. Now I usually just do them cold and set lash 5 000's tighter than spec. That way they are at spec when hot.
Ahy to clarify this for me you set the cold lash 5 thou LESS than the specified cold spec? The first sentence was confusing me "hot lash is 4-5 thou GREATER than cold lash" as I thought the hot would be less. Am I backwards here?
You got it. Set cold lash 4-5 000's less than what you want when hot.
This is a rule of thumb for iron block/aluminum head. Lash increases with heat because the aluminum head expands faster than the steel pushrods. Its a good idea to do your combo both hot and cold to check the "rule of thumb" before depending on it 100% since its hot lash that you really want to control.
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Re: School me on Valve Lash... A couple of questions.
[Re: Damned67]
#1096580
10/18/11 10:12 PM
10/18/11 10:12 PM
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5spdcuda
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How hot is hot? Well an engine dosen't really get to full operating temp until the oil is up to temp. Water heats up faster. You can get a good sense of oil temp from watching the oil pressure gauge if you don't have an oil temp gauge. When the oil pressure stabilizes at normal running pressure the engine is pretty well up to normal operating temp. When allowing for setting lash cold Crane recommends the following: iron block and heads add .002 eg. hot lash=.028, set at .030. Iron block, alum heads subtract .006 eg. hot lash = .028, set at .022. Alum block and heads subtract .012 eg. hot lash .028, set at .016. Added bit of trivia, most adjusters are 3/8 in. fine thread. This means that one full turn is equal to just under .042. 3/8 fine thread has 24 threads to the inch. By definition there are 1000 thousands to the inch. 1000 divided by 24 = 41.666. If you have roller tipped rockers getting the right feel is tricky. Try moving the blade sideways. Better yet get a go, no go feeler gauge. They don't cost all that much and are easier to use.
Last edited by 5spdcuda; 10/18/11 10:18 PM.
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Re: School me on Valve Lash... A couple of questions.
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1096582
10/18/11 10:47 PM
10/18/11 10:47 PM
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Dcuda69
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how 'snug' should the feeler gauge be between the rocker tip and the valve? Cheers!
If the spec is for example .020" you want a .021" blade to have a slight drag and a .019" blade to have no drag. Held parallel of course. this will get you to within .001"
I would prefer a .020 to have a slight drag, a .021 to not fit and a .019 to be loose.
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Re: School me on Valve Lash... A couple of questions.
[Re: Dcuda69]
#1096583
10/18/11 11:00 PM
10/18/11 11:00 PM
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BSB67
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Quote:
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how 'snug' should the feeler gauge be between the rocker tip and the valve? Cheers!
If the spec is for example .020" you want a .021" blade to have a slight drag and a .019" blade to have no drag. Held parallel of course. this will get you to within .001"
I would prefer a .020 to have a slight drag, a .021 to not fit and a .019 to be loose.
It is more like .020" will be very snug, and .021" will not fit.
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Re: School me on Valve Lash... A couple of questions.
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1096585
10/19/11 02:18 AM
10/19/11 02:18 AM
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Posts: 2,309 Tomorrow.
Damned67
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One that's going to be really tough to answer, how 'snug' should the feeler gauge be between the rocker tip and the valve? Cheers!
Any thoughts Damned67 . You were right it wasn't going to be easy
I went with 'slight drag' on the specified blade. I'm going to go back in when I next get a chance and compare my lash setting against the blades that are next size up + down.
Cheers!
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Re: School me on Valve Lash... A couple of questions.
[Re: Damned67]
#1096586
10/19/11 02:34 AM
10/19/11 02:34 AM
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RapidRobert
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I'm gonna put a dial indicator inline vertical on top of it & find out which one is the best (like the old P&G hand held valve gapper that had a dial indicator dial built in)
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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