Re: '69 GTX Temperature Gauge
[Re: Bayou_Bird]
#1065842
08/30/11 02:07 PM
08/30/11 02:07 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,079
Niles , Ohio
therocks
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
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oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,079
Niles , Ohio
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Ground the temp wire and the gauge should peg.That tests the complete circuit.As said if the other gauges work the limiter is good.Did you use teflon on the sender?That could keep it from grounding.That or the sender could be bad.Dont say its new.Ive had so many new parts that were bad I cant count them.Rocky
Chrysler Firepower
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Re: '69 GTX Temperature Gauge
[Re: therocks]
#1065845
08/30/11 09:10 PM
08/30/11 09:10 PM
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1
Louisiana
Bertocchi
member
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member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1
Louisiana
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Quote:
Ground the temp wire and the gauge should peg.That tests the complete circuit.As said if the other gauges work the limiter is good.Did you use teflon on the sender?That could keep it from grounding.That or the sender could be bad.Dont say its new.Ive had so many new parts that were bad I cant count them.Rocky
When we grounded the sensor wire the gauge went up then back down and stayed there. When a volt meter was attached to the limiter output the reading fluctuated so frequently that we really could not get a reading? I understand the principal behind the limiter but one would imagine that some sort of reading would be possible.
The repair manual refers to a special tester used to diagnose the limiter and the printed circuit board behind the instrument panel?
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Re: '69 GTX Temperature Gauge
[Re: Bertocchi]
#1065849
09/05/11 11:02 PM
09/05/11 11:02 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,001
Coram, NY
Pool Fixer
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,001
Coram, NY
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Quote:
.......
The repair manual refers to a special tester used to diagnose the limiter and the printed circuit board behind the instrument panel?
There is a special tool for the limiter and one for the gauge itself, here's how to "home brew" testers for both.
Testing limiter:
Voltage limiters can be tested out of the car with a few jumper wires and a test light.
Hold the limiter with the terminals facing you.
The horizontal terminal should be on the top. The vertical terminal in the middle and the angled one on the bottom
Ground the horizontal terminal. Supply 12v to the vertical terminal.
Touch a 12v test light to the angled terminal. You should get a pulsating light on the test light.
If the light doesn't flash or stays on all the time the limiter is bad.
The limiter does not provide 5v. It provides a pulsating 12v that averages out to 5v.
Testing Gauges
A voltage limiter needs to be plugged into the circuit board. Attach a 12v power source to the circuit board pin that supplies power to the board. Ground the cluster housing.
Go to Radio Shack and buy these resistors.
271-1101 10 ohm
271-1103 23 ohm
271-1109 150 ohm
Just attach a short piece of wire with a small alligator clip on each end to a single 10 ohm and 23 ohm resistor
Take two 150 ohm resistors and put them side by side and then attach the wires with clips.
The jumper wires are so cheap you could make three of each and have all your gauges testing at the same time.
The LOW position is 73 ohms
The MIDDLE position is 23 ohms
The HIGH position is 10 ohms
Temperature gauge
The L position should read 120* on the dial
The M position should read 170*~180* on the dial.
The H position should read 250* on the dial.
Oil gauge
The L position should read 0 psi on the dial.
The M position should read about 30 psi on the dial
The H position should read 80 psi on the dial
Fuel gauge
The L position should read empty on the dial
The M position should read just under 1/2 on the dial
The H position should read full on the dial
All the above are plus or minus about 1/16ths of an inch.
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Re: '69 GTX Temperature Gauge
[Re: Bayou_Bird]
#1065850
09/05/11 11:06 PM
09/05/11 11:06 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,001
Coram, NY
Pool Fixer
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,001
Coram, NY
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Quote:
I have replaced the Engine Temp Sensor (three times replaced to make sure the part was good), replaced the OEM Temperature Gauge, I have also replaced the BWD Voltage limiter (twice replaced to make sure it was good). Is the replacement of the Circuit Board next? What else could it be? 
You can replace the board but they are real expensive. That board is ultra simple and literally could be replaced with a bunch of wires if you got creative. I'm not saying to do that, but you could use jumpers to bypass any parts of that board that are suspect so at least you would know what's gotta be done.
If it were me, i'd yank the cluster from the car and when it's on your bench, apply 12V to the limiter. once you determine that it's good, then test each gauge... you can adjust the gauges using the radioshack resistors so that they are accurate. There are holes on the back of each one and you can see wheels with teeth on them. turning them alters the gauge reading.
Oh, and when you put that cluster back in, make sure it's tight...good grounds are good.
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Re: '69 GTX Temperature Gauge
[Re: stumpy]
#1065852
09/06/11 08:35 AM
09/06/11 08:35 AM
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 277
Palmyra, NY
63stabamatic
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 277
Palmyra, NY
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Stumpy is right, the pins on the main connector get loose and or dirty and will break the connection. Also the copper traces on the board get hairline cracks that become intermittent. There are techniques to soldering and gluing the pins back in, bridging the cracks with small pieces of solid wire etc. I would suggest replacing the stock pulsed regulator with one of the new solid state replacements that provide 5V continuous. RTE engineering makes one, a lot of instrument outfits sell one,like Tachman. http://rt-eng.com/mediawiki/index.php/RTE_limiter
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