If this is a stock chassis car, rear end and trans in the original location and stock rear sub frames, I would use the original spring boxes(and do) to measure to the axle housing to get it square, within 1/16 of a inch
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As far as the pinion shaft and trans. output shaft it is not neccesssary for them to be in perfect alignment, as already said. The U joint need a difference in angles to make the needles bearings rotate in the cups to preveny bernelling( SP?)As far as the trans and pinion angles I have never measured the trans angle in over 40 yrs of racing and building stock type drag cars, I do measure the differences in angles between the rear of the driveshaft and the pinion shaft, I like to see the pinion straight or nose down and the drive shaft pointed up towards the trans and anywhere from 3 to 7 degrees difference between the two, depending on which type rear suspension is being used
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Last thing, I like to make the rear end go forward as far as I can(and not hit anything
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)to get as much weight behind the rear axle as I can for better traction
![](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/1343795-scratchchin.gif)
My Duster rear end is moved one inch forward from stock and he rear wheel wells where stretch five inches(three inches forwrd and two inches back from original) to make it look stock
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