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I prefer engine dyno's which is the reason I bought one. A chassis dyno is fine if you have a good operator,and use it for tuning and not to try for bragging rights numbers.
If you use either one as a tool like it is intended and don't get caught up in the numbers game,it can be useful.
Keith

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if the motor is already in your car then go for the chassis dyno. an upside too is they are usually a bit cheaper.

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I prefer engine dyno's which is the reason I bought one. A chassis dyno is fine if you have a good operator,and use it for tuning and not to try for bragging rights numbers.
If you use either one as a tool like it is intended and don't get caught up in the numbers game,it can be useful.
Keith

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One other thing to keep in mind is what works on the dyno may not be the best change(tuneup) to use at the track I have a freind(races a record holding SB NHRA Stocker) who found that out the hard way, he had engine dyno tuned his new motor extensievily on a DTS engine dyno, the motor had made the best power and torque on the dyno at 40 degree of timing Most of the stock headed SB Mopars I've tune at the track like between 30 and 33 timing at the most He went to a race and ran 1.31 under so he retarded the timing to 36 to slow it down and the car pick up to 1.37 under He got a HP factor off of those two runs Test,test and test some more if you want to go the fastest your car will go

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Could I get a decent idea of how much the converter is slipping? My car runs a crappy 60', and I think my plugs look a little lean but im not real great at reading plugs. A normal weekend at the track I only get 5 runs in 3 days so I hate to mess with it to much or I never know what to dial! Might give it a shot for $125 for a hour. I would like to get it running lower into the tens so I can stop thinking about making it faster.

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Sure if you know the exact RPM you cross the line
at, tire size and gear then you can figure the slippage