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hey mryuck have you seen that stock 440 cast piston motor the supercharger store built, : wait bolted on. i think it made like 800 horsepower see you do not have to be a rocket scientist to build a big block just a socket set

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Would love to see those cast piston after a few races oh wait I would only have to look at the track to see them laying there. And how much was the blower set up fromthem. I priced a f1 from them complete with out intercooler was 5500.00 not cheap!

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Blowers are way

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your right ,but smallblock guy brought it up we just went with it so since he did we figure 830 hp for 5750$. the article was in mopar muscle i believe. thats right small block guy just factory parts from ma mopar [/quote

I believe it was you that said you could build that pump gas big block to drag that 9.50 car done the track. Still waiting!

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darn, I bought these engines and 1 more for 2k with all the parts to put them back together. A race shop in New Orleans was shutting down. Bargain deals are out there. But blowers don't count. The 392 is .030 over with jahns pistons, big cam and 6 carbs. It was a rather cheap build

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If you got all that in the picture for $2k,you either
{1} Had a very large handgin,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,or
{2} Bought it 20 years ago


Nice score!!!

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Nope, but there was a member that had a 61-62 dart w/ a junk yard cast crank/piston 440 w/ a 671 that ran high 10's with nothing fancy...

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WOW 440 with a 671 blower that ran high 10's!
Now I understand why some of you like big blocks only

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darn, I bought these engines and 1 more for 2k with all the parts to put them back together. A race shop in New Orleans was shutting down. Bargain deals are out there. But blowers don't count. The 392 is .030 over with jahns pistons, big cam and 6 carbs. It was a rather cheap build

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If you got all that in the picture for $2k,you either
{1} Had a very large handgin,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,or
{2} Bought it 20 years ago


Nice score!!!

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Yeah it's been a while, you aught to see the rest of the storage for parts. I go broke buying deals up. I bought a b body 8 3/4 rearend with 391's in it day before yesterday for 70 bucks. There's gold out in these hills Found an R5 p7 roller cam, dry sump, gear drive, intake, to pan for 5k yesterday. Short block was assembled to

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Nope, but there was a member that had a 61-62 dart w/ a junk yard cast crank/piston 440 w/ a 671 that ran high 10's with nothing fancy...

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WOW 440 with a 671 blower that ran high 10's!
Now I understand why some of you like big blocks only

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ummm why don't you go do the same to a low compression 360 and stick it in a HUGE car (those darts were big) and get back with me on that. I'll even let you use your king kong 340 if ya like. My guess is you be in the 12's .

You guys with your s/b's are missing the point. What ever you do to a S/B I can do to a BB and it will be faster PERIOD. I will get my 500HP much easier and cheaper than you will. I can get my 500 using iron heads stock crank, rods, hydro cam, stock shafts and rockers and you can't.

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I can get my 500 using iron heads stock crank, rods, hydro cam, stock shafts and rockers and you can't.

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I can get my 500 using iron heads stock crank, rods, hydro cam, stock shafts and rockers and you can't.

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I'd like to see this - 500 at the crank with all stock parts

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stock 440 steel crank ,stock ly rods ,liter pistons could handle 600hp no problem not even working the block.i think if i built a small block that level it would be aftermarket stroker crank possibly steel crank scat rods. that is the price difference.but my 440 build i used scat rods i got off ebay brand new 180.00 dollars.my machinist really had to cut on the crank

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If you want to go the "stroker route" (increase displacement, torque and lower peak rpms) great!!
Good streetable hp/torque for street and strip. You can, rev up to 7k (reliably) and rely on the induction system/cam/cylinder head combo to make power. A "proven" method by the now-defunct
Modified Production/Modified Eliminator NHRA class in the early to late 70's. Was a great class for
smallblock cars!!

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I can get my 500 using iron heads stock crank, rods, hydro cam, stock shafts and rockers and you can't.

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I'd like to see this - 500 at the crank with all stock parts

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why's that? You can get it with old school TRW 10.5:1 pistons, LY rods, stock crank, home ported 915 or 906 heads, 1 7/8" headers, RPM intake and a 509 cam.
Think not? Here's a freinds old set up in a full steel 67 GTX. As mention above stock carnk 440 w/ TRW's ported 915 heads, 1 7/8 headers, 509 cam, Stock shafts/rockers and a six-pack. Not sure what stall but he had 4.10's and ran 11.80 @ 116. That's about 465 at the rear wheels. I'll bet that's over 500 at the crank. Could be equaled w/ a single 4. I have another friend that ran the same thing except a 557 solid in a 70 4 speed RR, he had about the same #'s w/ more mph but I'm guessing the RR is a little heavier. Nothing fancy about either set-up.

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The average et/mph for the B-Body 440 combo is around the 11.80-11.30 range. Anything else, stroked 440 or not, is a bonus. Smallblocks, built
right can reach the 11.40-11'teens range, stock stroke, (it's been proven) so I would be wary of the races picked. The "true" costs of build where it consists of money spent where it's needed, will determine the cheapest build. And
for the sake of advancing technology, it isn't always the Big Block.

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I can get my 500 using iron heads stock crank, rods, hydro cam, stock shafts and rockers and you can't.

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I'd like to see this - 500 at the crank with all stock parts

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why's that? You can get it with old school TRW 10.5:1 pistons, LY rods, stock crank, home ported 915 or 906 heads, 1 7/8" headers, RPM intake and a 509 cam.
Think not? Here's a freinds old set up in a full steel 67 GTX. As mention above stock carnk 440 w/ TRW's ported 915 heads, 1 7/8 headers, 509 cam, Stock shafts/rockers and a six-pack. Not sure what stall but he had 4.10's and ran 11.80 @ 116. That's about 465 at the rear wheels. I'll bet that's over 500 at the crank. Could be equaled w/ a single 4. I have another friend that ran the same thing except a 557 solid in a 70 4 speed RR, he had about the same #'s w/ more mph but I'm guessing the RR is a little heavier. Nothing fancy about either set-up.

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The average et/mph for the B-Body 440 combo is around the 11.80-11.30 range. Anything else, stroked 440 or not, is a bonus. Smallblocks, built
right can reach the 11.40-11'teens range, stock stroke, (it's been proven) so I would be wary of the races picked. The "true" costs of build where it consists of money spent where it's needed, will determine the cheapest build. And
for the sake of advancing technology, it isn't always the Big Block.

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I can get my 500 using iron heads stock crank, rods, hydro cam, stock shafts and rockers and you can't.

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I'd like to see this - 500 at the crank with all stock parts

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why's that? You can get it with old school TRW 10.5:1 pistons, LY rods, stock crank, home ported 915 or 906 heads, 1 7/8" headers, RPM intake and a 509 cam.
Think not? Here's a freinds old set up in a full steel 67 GTX. As mention above stock carnk 440 w/ TRW's ported 915 heads, 1 7/8 headers, 509 cam, Stock shafts/rockers and a six-pack. Not sure what stall but he had 4.10's and ran 11.80 @ 116. That's about 465 at the rear wheels. I'll bet that's over 500 at the crank. Could be equaled w/ a single 4. I have another friend that ran the same thing except a 557 solid in a 70 4 speed RR, he had about the same #'s w/ more mph but I'm guessing the RR is a little heavier. Nothing fancy about either set-up.

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The average et/mph for the B-Body 440 combo is around the 11.80-11.30 range. Anything else, stroked 440 or not, is a bonus. Smallblocks, built
right can reach the 11.40-11'teens range, stock stroke, (it's been proven) so I would be wary of the races picked. The "true" costs of build where it consists of money spent where it's needed, will determine the cheapest build. And
for the sake of advancing technology, it isn't always the Big Block.

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not a chance you can take a stock stroke 340 and use an old school 509, home port job, stock valve train, headers and all drop it in a b-body and run close to 11's. I'd bet it would run in the 13's (if that) They same combo I wrote about above would run 10's easy in an A-body w/o a huge amount of stall or steap gears. Nobody is saying you can make a sb run...

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No..You are just against the idea of one (smallblock) in a B-Body, RUNNING HARD!!
Let me ask one question... Is everything that you COMPARE have to be in a B-Body chassis? I do understand and respect your combo - a classic example of what to do in a HEAVY chassis. The et's listed above were for their RESPECTIVE chassis (ie: 440 B-Body, 340/360 A-body). Most racers who run street/strip or all out track
DO lighten up B-Bodies. It's been an ongoing Mopar
tradition since the time of the Max-Wedge and Race HEMI era. Saves parts, less breakage and reduces the hp absorbed (in chassis) to move the vehicle. Granted the sky is the limit for displacement and with that in saying, you COULD put a two-door C body
into the high to mid 11's with a correctly built
540+ (stroker) wedge and some weight lost in the RIGHT places. But thats just ONE of a few odd examples. Smallblocks CAN power a 3500 lb B-body (stripper model/w driver) to the 12-12.5 sec zone, with nary a problem. It's the SAME weight as an average A-body, but a WIDER chassis (mass) to move! But, it's not as efficient compared to the Big Block. As CompSync put it, it's all about
careful choice of parts and CORRECT assembly. There are LOTS of people who are talented at extracting power from a stock stroke 340, since it's rise from the street scene in 68'-69' to the battle zones of the Modified Production classes till late 70's. There's still ONGOING performance development on the 340 motor, so just as you respect your 440's, 340's command THEIR OWN respect BIG TIME!!

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not a chance you can take a stock stroke 340 and use an old school 509, home port job, stock valve train, headers and all drop it in a b-body and run close to 11's. I'd bet it would run in the 13's (if that) They same combo I wrote about above would run 10's easy in an A-body w/o a huge amount of stall or steap gears. Nobody is saying you can make a sb run...

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Not that I want to get into your peeing match but I
have to say... IF you take your B-body and he takes
his A-body and BOTH weigh the same 3500# the A-body
will be quicker because it has a shorter wheel base
and is more apt to transfer weight easier and better...
carry on

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what is the wheelbase on a b body? my driveshaft from the challenger slid right into my cuda but the rear was moved back some in the cuda