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well thats what i mean,we can buy cheap for both,like cast cranks etc etc.. its all relative to make 500 isnt really that tuff anymore for either bb or sb.. im giving up its to hot.

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The "econo" route isn't bad at all, but... there's a term called RELIABILITY when selecting parts for the assembly of a 550-600 hp motor (whether BB or SB). You must insure that the motor
will make the 550-600hp, reliabily. A member previously posted about stress on the an engine at about 960 hp. That's true, and you would need NEARLY the BEST parts that money can buy for that power level and beyond. However, 550-600 hp does put SOME stress on the internals (reciprocating assembly) and at this level you NEED a bit more than you would at the 500 hp level. MORE than
a "warmed over" Magnum motor (400-450 hp, BB or SB) would need. Think about stress on crank/rod/piston assembilies, and at every 1000rpms (over 5500 rpms) the force keeps increasing itself, squared (check on this).
So much more factors come into play when increasing power. Big Blocks are more TORQUE productive
than Small Blocks and build it STRONG, FROM above idle going thru the midrange rpms. The bigger block design contributes to this, but they are victims to excessive bobweight. Rev potential (NOT hp) is less in the Big Block. The Small Blocks' claim to fame IS the fact of lesser bobweight and with that comes BETTER rev potential (more hp/torque upstairs, equipment depending) with increased "breathing" capability. But
their downside is LESS torque (than the Big Block) in the lower ranges. That's why Small Blocks NEED more multiplication (gears) than the Big Block.

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stock 440 steel crank ,stock ly rods ,liter pistons could handle 600hp no problem not even working the block.i think if i built a small block that level it would be aftermarket stroker crank possibly steel crank scat rods. that is the price difference.but my 440 build i used scat rods i got off ebay brand new 180.00 dollars.my machinist really had to cut on the crank

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Weather you chew up the horsepower off the front of the crank or the back with trannys etc the motor still needs to make that horsepower. So that motor see's approx 960 HP worth of stress on the crank rods pistons block.

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You are saying your friends car ran a 6.11 in the 1/8 mile before he had a problem further down the track. That converts over to a 9.52 1/4 mile time. Unless his car is super heavy I think his 800+ HP car appears to be a DOG. No wonder you guys don't like to show your time slips. [/quote

As stated on other post the car is a protouring car running 17in tires 6 piston bear brakes 13 front 12 in the back full leather interior was just a feature car in a big mag runs on pump gas should go 9.50s at the track in street trim and is a dog? What does that make your sons car a super slug? 10.50s in a car set up to go race.

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Sorry he's not here to defend himself as he is at the track racing his car and not here . He added 200-300# more to his car this week as he was told to slow it down more till he gets the roll bar in after running a 11.40 on the brakes last week in the 5th round. I would love to see how fast it would go in the Fall with the 300-400# he's added so far out of it and the four barrel hooked back up.

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As stated on other post the car is a protouring car running 17in tires 6 piston bear brakes 13 front 12 in the back full leather interior was just a feature car in a big mag runs on pump gas should go 9.50s at the track in street trim and is a dog? What does that make your sons car a super slug? R10.50s in a car set up to go race.
Sorry he's not here to defend himself as her is at the track racing his car and not here . He added 200-300# t hmore to his car this week as he was told to slow it down more till he gets the roll bar in after running a 11.40 on the brakes last week in the 5th round. I would love to see how fast it would go in the Fall with the 300-400# he's added so far out of it and the four barrel hooked back up. [/quote

So I see you cant answer questions. How do you figure a pumpgas small block on 17 in dragradials protouring car in street trim through exaust to the rear bumper, full leather interior front and rear seats that should run 9.50s is a slug. I think there are alot of people on here with race cars that are that fast. I am asking you not your son, asked for your opinion on your sons car not his.

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Don't put words in my mouth I didn't say its a slug,I said its a dog. I base a lot of my judgement calls on dollar spent per HP. I did not read your other post as it keeps going in circles. To compare your friends engines to my sons is just crazy. Now when he wants to step up his program and add a POWER ADDER and a few cubic inches you may have a fair comparison but for now its a 10 second 360 with a stock cast crank,520 lift cam,and a set of heads his Dad did some scratching on.

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stock 440 steel crank ,stock ly rods ,liter pistons could handle 600hp no problem not even working the block.i think if i built a small block that level it would be aftermarket stroker crank possibly steel crank scat rods. that is the price difference.but my 440 build i used scat rods i got off ebay brand new 180.00 dollars.my machinist really had to cut on the crank

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I think at that high level of hp (550-600) and a nearly EQUAL amount of torque, I would be thinking about not reusing the stock reciprocating assembly and get brand new crank/rods from
the factory, MP or Scat. Whether Big Block OR Small Block, after 35-45 years from the assembly line, the original parts do not have 100% shelf
life (tired) and you apply 550-600 hp to them, IMO something's gotta give. It's called putting money in the RIGHT PLACES.

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ok i am on the right thread small block guys tell me about a 500-550 horsepower build, cost, parts,etc stock stroke or stroker no turbo no supercharger

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yea good idea bro...lets melt all the small blocks down!

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yea good idea bro...lets melt all the small blocks down!

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for 550 hp reliably and most economically...I'd say the 511 B or RB motor with bowl worked E heads and a 255 @.050 .600 lift cam, A St Dommy intake and an 850 carb. I said Economical in terms of least $$$ for the Bang...nothing done right and built to last is truly "cheap".

Buy the E-heads off somebody that just upgraded to Max wedge heads (like many eventually do)

Nothing exotic about the shortblock kit, just top notch machine work and careful assembly.

Easy 550hp, and yes, you can get 550 out of a stock stroke 440 or 451 B....but your streetability will be more reliant on a looser stall and deeper gears. If it's a bracket only car you can surely get there and the streetability isn't an issue.

Case in point...I just did a 414 small block, horse trading parts and a a used solid roller cam I'm pretty safe telling you it makes an easy 550, I can also tell you it cost about $1200-1500 more than if I did the 'economical' 511 I just described above....The extra $$$ is typically in the needed head porting plus the typically higher grade valvetrain you need to reliably spin the motor high enough to use it.
But a B motor don't fit too well in my car. Don't get me wrong I love it but at 500-600 Reliable HP a B/RB is the way to go...the reason is mainly the heads, Small block heads can make that kind of power...but not really out of the box. conversely, I'm pretty certain just about anybody can make 550hp easy (and with broader overall torque and less RPM) with a set of BB E-heads on a 470-up motor pretty easy.....with nothing more than and ultra streetable 235 ish at .050 Hydraulic Flat tap.

Horsepower targets are typically all about head flow requirements...with less regard to cubes (when you make it up with RPM), torque curves and how you wish to apply it to the ground is really a completely different (and application specific) arguement.

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This is why he is "WIZE"!! Excellent points!!