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Re: 160 thermostat-vs-180 thermostat & no cold weather driv [Re: A12] #1035863
07/21/11 12:50 PM
07/21/11 12:50 PM
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Upper Midwest
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Quote:

FWIW: Yesterday with a 160 standard flow thermostat, outside/ambient temps in the mid 90's (F) and cruising on the Ohio Turnpike at 70 mph. Sunday with similar conditions but a little cooler out the temp gauge needle was right on the next to the last line and the car puked coolant two minutes after I shut the engine off at a local cruise . just FYI and I have no clue on a 160 versus a 180 thermostat????


MikeR


That is why they came out with burp tanks. wasn't that you were necessarily overheating but that the coolant quit circulating and pressure built up.

Re: 160 thermostat-vs-180 thermostat & no cold weather driv [Re: A12] #1035864
07/21/11 01:21 PM
07/21/11 01:21 PM
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 493
Arizona
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Arizona
You can't compensate for a cooling system that is at its maximum efficiency by using a colder thermostat.

In the Arizona desert many of us use triple core radiators with 3/8" tubes on 3/8" centers. It is just a simple fact of life that anything less is marginal and will probably fail just when you don't want it to.

Re: 160 thermostat-vs-180 thermostat & no cold weather driv [Re: az426john] #1035865
07/21/11 01:29 PM
07/21/11 01:29 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,748
N.E. OHIO, USA
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N.E. OHIO, USA
Quote:

You can't compensate for a cooling system that is at its maximum efficiency by using a colder thermostat.

In the Arizona desert many of us use triple core radiators with 3/8" tubes on 3/8" centers. It is just a simple fact of life that anything less is marginal and will probably fail just when you don't want it to.





Understand and agree with what you and others are saying about that but why have differant heat rating thermostats at all if there is no difference between a 160, 180, 195 or why even have a thermostat if they have no affect on engine running temp or cooling? Would I be better to get an aluminum multi core radiator and electric fan and not run a thermostat in a system like that?

Re: 160 thermostat-vs-180 thermostat & no cold weather driv [Re: StealthWedge67] #1035866
07/21/11 01:57 PM
07/21/11 01:57 PM
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,020
South Park, Pa.
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South Park, Pa.
Quote:

My car makes more power at 160-165 than it does at 180-185. I went to a 160 stat, and gained a consistant 1-1.5 MPH at the track. So I'm going to rely on that evidence. As far as wear....... makes sense for a daily driver, my car sees about 1000 miles a year, I'm not too worried about it.





Same here. I run a 160 and the engine NEVER goes above 170 even on 90*+ days. I DO NOT have a daily driver and my car doesn't see more than 1000 miles a year also. If it works , don't fix it!


4 speed street legal. Best time 10.99 @ 124 mph on 93 octane pump gas @ 3926# total weight
Re: 160 thermostat-vs-180 thermostat & no cold weather driv [Re: A12] #1035867
07/21/11 02:03 PM
07/21/11 02:03 PM
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 493
Arizona
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Depending upon what you want for origionality you should be able to get a triple core copper with 3/8 X 3/8 tubes in using your origional top & bottom tanks. You could then probably run the stock fan and stock temperature thermostat (180?) (assuming the fan clutch is in good condition). I would run the A/C or Mildidon water pump and one of the superstat thermostats. If you switch to an aluminum radiator you may need an anode to keep corrosion under control. You might also have the radiator cap pressure tested to assure it is holding the specified pressure. Just my opinions.

I have a 67 Hemi car here in AZ with a simular set up with a 4 blade fan. It works really well as long as you are moving. When I am stopped after coming off the freeway, and it is a 100+ degree day, it gets up to about 1/2 way on the temperature gage but once I start moving it drops right off to about 3/8 of the way on the gage.

Re: 160 thermostat-vs-180 thermostat & no cold weather driv [Re: A12] #1035868
07/21/11 02:03 PM
07/21/11 02:03 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200
Upper Midwest
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Quote:

Quote:

You can't compensate for a cooling system that is at its maximum efficiency by using a colder thermostat.

In the Arizona desert many of us use triple core radiators with 3/8" tubes on 3/8" centers. It is just a simple fact of life that anything less is marginal and will probably fail just when you don't want it to.





Understand and agree with what you and others are saying about that but why have differant heat rating thermostats at all if there is no difference between a 160, 180, 195 or why even have a thermostat if they have no affect on engine running temp or cooling? Would I be better to get an aluminum multi core radiator and electric fan and not run a thermostat in a system like that?


They cannot control temps above the stat rating. No matter what you think. They can help control base temperatures and speed up the time ti takes to get to operating temperatures. It is found that there is more overall efficiency at higher operating temperature. As for the guys putting out more power with a 160 that is all well and good on a limited used type vehicle such as a drag car. You would but out more yet if you could control your engine lubricant temp keeping it at a higher level and cooling your incoming fuel and air mix where your power is made. Also not shooting for clean air efficiency.


Clean it, if it's Dirty. Oil it, if it Squeaks. But: Don't fix it, if it Works!
Re: 160 thermostat-vs-180 thermostat & no cold weather driv [Re: A12] #1035869
07/21/11 03:27 PM
07/21/11 03:27 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 33,180
Grand Prairie,Texas
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Grand Prairie,Texas
Quote:

Quote:

You can't compensate for a cooling system that is at its maximum efficiency by using a colder thermostat.

In the Arizona desert many of us use triple core radiators with 3/8" tubes on 3/8" centers. It is just a simple fact of life that anything less is marginal and will probably fail just when you don't want it to.





Understand and agree with what you and others are saying about that but why have differant heat rating thermostats at all if there is no difference between a 160, 180, 195 or why even have a thermostat if they have no affect on engine running temp or cooling? Would I be better to get an aluminum multi core radiator and electric fan and not run a thermostat in a system like that?




The different stats have an effect on what the lowest temp will be not the highest. A 160 will open at 160 and a 195 won't open until the engine hits 195. Most street engines need a 180-185 stat to operate their best. Race engines do better at 160. A 180 stat will make the engine run at least 180 but won't keep it down at 180. A 160 will make the engine run 160 but again not keep it at 160. The high temps are controlled by flow and the engine and raditors ability to dispell heat.

Re: 160 thermostat-vs-180 thermostat & no cold weather driv [Re: stumpy] #1035870
07/21/11 04:29 PM
07/21/11 04:29 PM
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,525
Eastern shore, New England
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Eastern shore, New England
To control the overflow after parking for cruise night I would just use a plastic commuter drink cup that I placed in front of the radiator support. Was removeable within seconds. To get a little better heat removal in summer you can run Water Water with straight demineralized water or with a glycol/water mix of around 10/90 or 20/80. When I ran the 160 deg stat in the car during colder weather I'd just block off part of the radiator core with a piece of cardboard to optimize running temp, and allow a quicker heat up. On winter maintenance runs in 25 deg weather I'd have about 80% of the core covered. Simpler than swapping stats.

RR69s

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