When remounting the hindged cover on my Abody console, some of the screw holes in the body were stripped. The body is some kind of fibre plastic composite??? What will fix the holes so I can re-screw mount the hindge? Thanks

how's about a slightly larger screw. I don't see much else. unless you fill the holes and then re drill 'em. Fiberglass maybe.

If there's a way to do it without it being seen, all you need to do is add some material, just a little, to get the screw to grab. You could use cardboard, or a toothpick, or just a little tiny bit of plastic cement and a little plastic dust. You just need to close the hole up a little bit, and the screw can then grab. Don't do too much, or you'll crack it.

Fill the holes with 2-part epoxy like J-B weld, or the clear stuff Loctite sells in the twin tubes?

I just used the 2 part clear epoxy from loctite on my console in my 92 Thunderbird. It has been 2 days and its holding so far I have also used another loctite product that you mix and fill in the hole, then add a release agent to the screw and thread it in just enough and it makes new threads. Supposed to be good to like 20ft lbs so it should hold fine for this. Don't know how it works if its not a blind hole though.

you could drill new holes in the hinge and into "virgin" material on the lid and or box.

Not familar with that piece, but could you slip a speed clip in a spot or two for fastneing?

If you can find a thin style of the drywall anchors. I have used those before. That way all the screws match and you won't see the clips.

If a person was so concerned someone might see a non-factory-spec fastener, wouldn't they simply replace the console completely?

I have had success shimming plastic mounting screws with teflon coated wire, size depending on screw size. I just used tie-wraps as shims on large licence plate frame screws the body shop stripped on a plastic bumper guard.

Baking soda and crazy glue ...

Use masking tape to tape off one side of the hole. Using something like a small screwdriver, scoop a TINY bit of baking sode into the hole then squirt in enough crazy glue to visibly wet the baking soda. Continue this till the hole is filled. Do this with each hole. Remove the masking tape, file or sand the holes level. Redrill and away you go.

Baking soda and crazy glue create a chemical reaction and will smoke slightly during the process.

In my opinion this stuff beats any other product - epoxy or otherwise - because the thin viscosity of the crazy glue allows it to seep into every minute crack and crevice, unlike thick epoxies or JB Weld.

I have used the epoxy for plastic, JB weld and either of the above with a little fiberglass cloth. The fiberglass cloth is strong but messy.

Depending on the situation, you can also epoxy a light (22 guage) strip of sheet steel behind the holes as a backing plate and make new holes when the epoxy is hard. Strong and not as messy as adding the fiberglass cloth.