I'm getting ready to put the 440 in my 73 Roadrunner. Will it go in with motor and tranny together ? That cross brace near the tranny cross member has me thinking it won't. This is a factory 318 car and I'm using the schumacher swap mounts I'm going in from the top.

Some friends of mine just did that on a 74. They said the transmisson was the hardest install they ever saw because of the change in the transmisson mounting assembly after 71 I think. I don't remember all the details but they put the trans in first then the engine. Better do some research it's a real bear!!

I thought I saw a post on here from somebody that did it through the top with the tranny on but I can't find it now.

I've removed and installed the 400 and 727 together in my 73 RR . Not too bad.

crawl under and remove the transmission cross support, it should be held in with just 4 bolts , that would make things much easier, also
remove the pulleys and anything up front on the engine because you will need the room.

I installed my 340 and keisler auto trans at once, as stated above take off trans mount, radiator out and everything off the front ( I wish I took off my water pump) tight fit but it went in, my biggest problem was the 8 qt oil pan sitting so low, good luck

I dropped the motor, trans and k-frame on mine out the bottom. Putting the motor and trans in together thru the top would be a pain because of the isolated torsion bar crossmember that hangs under the trans. Perhaps it could be done but on mine I just did the engine and trans separate when I did them from the top. Not that hard to bolt the engine to the trans in-car.

A big block and trans will install from the top...I install the headers while they go into place also...

I have installed a 440 and 4spd into a 74 satellite. all together and through the top. you have to take the hood off. and you have to drop the trans crossmember. as was mentioned its only 4 bolts for both the hood and the cross member. before removing the hood, drill 4 little holes that will fit 4 small nails through the hood hings and into the hood. these won't be noticed but will help in aligning the hood when you done.

i used the schumacker mounts and that required grinding the k frame. also the stock original big block 73+ b bodies have some of the inner fender removed from the passenger side. it makes installing headers easier. i would drop the headers in as your installing the engine. its a little tight but i used tti 2 inch headers and only had to ding them around the starter location.

Sorry for not responding I was putting the motor and trans in. I got it all done a couple hours ago. The way I did it was I lifted the car pretty hi so the tranny would roll under on the tranny jack. I put the tranny in the cross brace and ran a chain from one torsion bar to the other to support the front of the tranny. Then I put the motor in and attached the tranny to the motor then put the tranny cross member in. It went together pretty easy but I didn't have all of my parts blasted and painted so it was a bunch of stopping and starting.

I left my headers out thinking they would fit in after the motor was in. Will they ? Do I need to remove the round tin piece on the steering column for the headers to fit ? I already moved the section of the lower passenger side inner fender out about an inch and a half.

The headers will not fit with the engine installed,it needs to be jacked up and lowered sliding the headers in as it drops. Also you will need to trim some of the sheet metal on the passenger side for the header to fit since it was originally a SB car. If it was a factory BB car the engine pan on the RH side has a large opening and uses a large Matt to cover that opening.....

Keep in mind you will need to roll the engine side to side. So take the motor mount bolts out and I would remove the trans mount too. You should be able to fit them in then...

Good Luck!

I already have the section of the lower inner fender taken out/moved. Do they go in from the top or the bottom? What about the can on the steering column ? do I need to take it off ?

I didn't have any problem with the steering column on mine. I put my headers in thru the bottom. Had to jack the engine up as high as it would go until the trans was touching the top of the tunnel.

Depends on the header manufacturer which way{top,bottom} is the easiest....There is enough room in that engine bay to use header studs on all the holes...I'd suggest you use them to avoid the headaches associated with the header bolts and the leaking issues...FYI the rubber steering shaft isolater bushing is now repoped but I'd keep the guard if at all possible...It should not only help with anything getting caught or twisted up on those bolts but also would seem to help keep the header heat away from that expensive piece...