Got a second hand, new Kickdown with the Hemi-orange bracket and 3 pc rods, no instructions. Car is a 74-360 challenger that had a home made kickdown,,,,, tranny is either fubar or hopefully this will fix the odd shifting up and down all the time....

Installed the bracket on the last holes in the intake, pivot on the bracket and arm connected to the carb, dropped the 2 pc down the firewall and don't see where/ if the section that holds the 2 arms together is supposed to mount to, or does it just hang in space ( Part labeled as #1-pivot pointed to) ?
Here is the Image that I used to assemble it, and all parts to the top image are in my kit



Does that lower pivot attach to the firewall somewhere?

Thanks

Allen

Generally a smallblock E body, IIRC has a 1 pc rod for the main kick down that pivots off the intake mounted bracket, down to the valve body lever....however a 3pc could be used, as some where used in smblk B bodies,....item #7, not #1 that you reference for help in "location", is mounted to a boss (protrusion) cast into the transmission, which may/may not be on your transmission (depending on the year of mfg)....if the boss is present, use it,....if not, purchase the correct/new kickdown linkage from the host of assorted vendors in the reproduction market

Found this pic online, you can see in general at least how it mounts to the transmission pretty well...

Thanks

The lower bracket does have a bolt on it, so I assume it mounts like in your picture.


Thanks, I'll go out and see if I can find the hole and bolt it up.

Allen

Got the pivot bracket bolted on to the transmission, now the arm between the pivot and tranny is too long...


It looks like it wants to bolt to the transmission shifting bracket, not the arm coming out of the trans that is forward of the shift linkage.... arm is about 9 inches long, about 1 1/2" longer than the old rod linkage was connected to the transmission...


The shift linkage is behind where the kickdown is with no load, but to get the new linkage to attach to the upper kickdown bracket the kickdown arm needs to be on top of the shift arm location?

Not sure why, but the shift linkage in the above picture , the arms are swapped top to bottom , the longer unattached arm is about where the linkage arm front pivot of the shift linkage is, and where the pictured arm is that needs the kickdown attached is where the new linkage wants to be.....


Any idea why this image seems backwards from my trans setup?


Any suggestions?

Thanks

Allen

It is NOT a kickdown

To be honest it's hard to say without knowing what linkage you have because it sounds like you've got a mismatch. There were more than just 2 styles. Some years had even more adjustment potential. It would be nice to see some pictures.


AZ69CHARGER... that's how you define helping someone by using semantics?

Ok then...the correct term is THROTTLE PRESSURE LINKAGE

Thanks


And sorry, everyone else calls it a kickdown linkage, I believe, but I'll go with whatever makes you happy.


I will try and get a pict or 2 soon.


Happy 4th of July, or independence day to some


Allen

Topside picture


Lower trans bracket view from drivers side


Lower linkage that seems too long, the existing kickdown with Block is forward ( left) clean Galv is new long rod and clamp, right is shift linkage. I put new bracket facing out for ease of visual, I know it is 180 degree's out, but you can see the "kickdown arm is forward maybe 2" from the new rod....


Thank you


Allen

though not much help,when/if someone lets you know or shows pic of the correct piece you need,i most likly have it,as i bought boxes of kickdown linkages to get one piece i needed.i will look to see what i have that looks right,if i got it you can have it. i actually bought kickdown linkage from a shmoe,who claimed it was 6pak,but sent 360 truck linkage(since banned for screwing others)i'll look at that tonight see if i have something that can help you

In the topside pic, you have the front end of the spring hooked in the slot, it should be hooked over the outer groove on the carb stud, inner groove gets a hairpin clip. (both visible in the pic in post one)

The original upper lever in the bottom pic is further forward because the inner hole in the lever is clocked differently than the new one, install the new one and it should work OK.

Thanks


Yes, I noticed I didn't hook the spring to the linkage and it allowed some airgap, thanks for noticing it.

So John, your suggestion is to remove the old kickdown arm ( of course) and use the new clamp currently on the new linkage, I think that old longer arm won't work?


Shouldn't the arm on the transmission for the "kickdown" linkage float, it seems to seek, under no load, a position forward of the shift arm by maybe 2", so I assume if I install the new galvanized arm ( I see it has a rotation flat) and let it find it's location, the arm I have that looks too long needs to be whatever the length is from the pivot to the trans arm with no movement due to a different rod length?


Allen

The spring at the top should pull the linkage up tight against the carb stud, at the same time the linkage should be adjusted so that the lever on the trans is full forward at carb idle.

The pic below shows various levers, notice the "D" shaped hole is clocked differently on some levers...this positions the linkage hole further forward or back.

Thank you very much John.


Allen