Need alternator help.
#1020347
06/25/11 09:12 PM
06/25/11 09:12 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 265
Garland, Texas
1badmopar
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OP
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Garland, Texas
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I just installed the Mancini 120amp alt kit on my motor, but I am not getting any power (voltage) output at the post on the back of the alt. Any ideas? I am only running one wire to the charge post. I am not running any signal wires to the alt. Do I need to? Thanks, Bridger 
1966 Plymouth Belvedere 520" RB w/ Indy 440-1 Heads FiTech Fuel Injection TKO 600 conversion [img] https://flic.kr/p/2j1ejsK[/img]
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Re: Need alternator help.
[Re: 1badmopar]
#1020348
06/25/11 09:24 PM
06/25/11 09:24 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
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Lincoln Nebraska
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Is that type (of alt) a 1 wire or a regular wired unit w the 2 field terminals & if so yes they need to b connected. Ain't that a 1 wire?
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Need alternator help.
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1020349
06/25/11 09:36 PM
06/25/11 09:36 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 265
Garland, Texas
1badmopar
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Its a Denso 210-0138. Not sure if it is a one wire or not. Mancini site does not say either way.
1966 Plymouth Belvedere 520" RB w/ Indy 440-1 Heads FiTech Fuel Injection TKO 600 conversion [img] https://flic.kr/p/2j1ejsK[/img]
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Re: Need alternator help.
[Re: 1badmopar]
#1020351
06/25/11 09:44 PM
06/25/11 09:44 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 265
Garland, Texas
1badmopar
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The more I look at it, the more I think it is not a 1 wire set up. There are two post out of the back side by side, like it is for a signal wire.
How can I tell which one to hook my signal wire up to? Does it matter which one?
Thanks
1966 Plymouth Belvedere 520" RB w/ Indy 440-1 Heads FiTech Fuel Injection TKO 600 conversion [img] https://flic.kr/p/2j1ejsK[/img]
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Re: Need alternator help.
[Re: 1badmopar]
#1020353
06/25/11 10:21 PM
06/25/11 10:21 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 265
Garland, Texas
1badmopar
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Ok, I just found this pic on another site. Looks like I do need to hook up the Green and Blue wires from the regulator to the alt. Does it matter which post they go on, or can they be substituted on either? 
1966 Plymouth Belvedere 520" RB w/ Indy 440-1 Heads FiTech Fuel Injection TKO 600 conversion [img] https://flic.kr/p/2j1ejsK[/img]
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Re: Need alternator help.
[Re: 1badmopar]
#1020356
06/26/11 01:11 PM
06/26/11 01:11 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
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Garland, Texas
1badmopar
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Need some more clarity! Do i just simply remove the green and solid blue wire from each side of the regulator and connect to the alt? Just want to be sure on this before I start splicing. Thanks! 
1966 Plymouth Belvedere 520" RB w/ Indy 440-1 Heads FiTech Fuel Injection TKO 600 conversion [img] https://flic.kr/p/2j1ejsK[/img]
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Re: Need alternator help.
[Re: John_Kunkel]
#1020358
06/26/11 03:07 PM
06/26/11 03:07 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
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Circle Track
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Lincoln Nebraska
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Didn't realize you had a '69 & earlier reg. What Kunkel said, bolt on a common '70 & up flat reg and connect the "side" terminal on the reg "triangle" to the green wire that's currently on the left side of your reg in the pic that goes to one of the alt field terminals. Connect the blue wire on the right side of your current reg in the pic to the "top" terminal in the new reg "triangle" and T into that blue wire and connect it to the other field terminal on the alt.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Need alternator help.
[Re: 1badmopar]
#1020360
06/27/11 01:21 PM
06/27/11 01:21 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,285
West Coast, USA
jbc426
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Nice alternator, but like the Mopar stuff, they don't put out too many amps at idle either.
After reading this post, you've got me wondering where your running the battery cable to, and whether or not you've adressed the bulkhead connection and amp gauge issues?
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)
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Re: Need alternator help.
[Re: jbc426]
#1020361
06/29/11 12:26 PM
06/29/11 12:26 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 265
Garland, Texas
1badmopar
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My battery is trunk mounted, with the cable running to the starter post. I have replaced all the wiring in the car with the Year One harness, it included a new bulk head connector, but it is still a factory design. I have not done a thing with the ampmeter.
What am I missing? Please offer any advice, as this swap is new to me.
Thanks,
Last edited by 1badmopar; 06/29/11 12:27 PM.
1966 Plymouth Belvedere 520" RB w/ Indy 440-1 Heads FiTech Fuel Injection TKO 600 conversion [img] https://flic.kr/p/2j1ejsK[/img]
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Re: Need alternator help.
[Re: 1badmopar]
#1020362
06/29/11 02:20 PM
06/29/11 02:20 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,581
N/E, Michigan
RATTRAP
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pro stock
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The second field wire i think u can jus run it to a ground and hook up every thing else normal, u will need to run a heavy gage piggy back wire from the alt to the starter relay to take some load off the sys,as that alt has a good output, also go to http://www.madelectrical.com,you will learn all u need to no,the guy is a frickin electrical GURU, I run the exact same setup with battery and kill switch in the trunk,
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Re: Need alternator help.
[Re: 1badmopar]
#1020363
06/29/11 04:29 PM
06/29/11 04:29 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,285
West Coast, USA
jbc426
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master
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West Coast, USA
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Good advice! Read, learn and understand the MadElectric concepts.
Be sure to use the proper gauge fusible links or fuses on any added cables. There are some really nice, compact and reliable high amp fusing solutions available at marine and stereo shops. I prefer the maring stuff personally.
Are you running any additional electrical loads fans, electric fuel pump, high powered stereo etc?
If so, feed them via fused distribution block using relays on the engine compartment side of the bulkhead.
Try not to add electrical load to the wiring inside the passenger compartment. It will increase the load on the bulkhead connector wiring and amp gauge.
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)
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Re: Need alternator help.
[Re: 1badmopar]
#1020365
06/29/11 05:26 PM
06/29/11 05:26 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,581
N/E, Michigan
RATTRAP
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pro stock
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,581
N/E, Michigan
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Quote:
My battery is trunk mounted, with the cable running to the starter post. I have replaced all the wiring in the car with the Year One harness, it included a new bulk head connector, but it is still a factory design. I have not done a thing with the ampmeter.
What am I missing? Please offer any advice, as this swap is new to me.
Thanks,
The cable from the battery to the starter post is bad,very bad, you need to add a Remote starter solenoid so the heavy gage wire is only charged when turning the key, Install START'M UP kit (part # ST-1) from mad electrical, Be safe eletrical falure could cause a complete melt down.
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Re: Need alternator help.
[Re: RATTRAP]
#1020366
06/30/11 02:28 AM
06/30/11 02:28 AM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,285
West Coast, USA
jbc426
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,285
West Coast, USA
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Quote:
Quote:
My battery is trunk mounted, with the cable running to the starter post. I have replaced all the wiring in the car with the Year One harness, it included a new bulk head connector, but it is still a factory design. I have not done a thing with the ampmeter.
What am I missing? Please offer any advice, as this swap is new to me.
Thanks,
The cable from the battery to the starter post is bad,very bad, you need to add a Remote starter solenoid so the heavy gage wire is only charged when turning the key, Install START'M UP kit (part # ST-1) from mad electrical, Be safe eletrical falure could cause a complete melt down.
Using a solenoid is one way to do it, but it has it's drawbacks. I run an "O" gauge cable from my trunk mounted battery to the starter relay. That cable has a 250 amp fuse mounted on the battery terminal protecting it and it is routed wisely.
A Ford type solenoid was useful prior to the widespread availability of high-quality, high-amperage fuses. It is a dated yet still effective approach of limiting the time a cable is energized.
But remember, when you rely solely on the solonoid method, during the limited time it is energized(i.e. when cranking the starter), the cable is still unprotected from shorting when the power flows through it.
And, you still need to run a cable to the battery for power for normal operation. Most people use a much smaller cable/wire. It must be fused too. While the system should be designed to run off the current from the alternator up front, The size and routing of the main batter power cable must also be considered. Granted when in use, the starter circuit will exceed the current draw from that second power cable, but you must still use a realatively large cable/ wire for your main battery power hookup. When you add up the amperage from all your electrical loads and allow for the extended length of that cable/wire to the battery from your distribution point in the front of the car, that cable can be a pretty sizable itself.
Last edited by jbc426; 06/30/11 06:15 PM.
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)
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