I am breaking in a 360 for a 1977 Warlock. Do I need to have a timing light to set the initial timing? Or can I set it at TDC and have the dist on #1 and have it pretty close? The engine has a 10:1 compression...would it run best a little advanced? Any tips??? Thanks!

I always have a timing light hooked up and ready to go....

get the timing set...

I left the distributor hold down 'snug' so I could move it by hand, but not so loose it could move and change the timing by itself. Have the timing light ready, adjust the disty, and

Hand turn the crank till the dampener is at 10BTDC. turn dist till the magnet is dead even w the nearest tooth AND the rotor is at (or near to) #6 (assuming you're still at 6 and 12 o'clock "dot to dot" on the tim gears) AND the vac can is located correctly (has room to b turned each way). As said snug on the clamp/light hooked up. A dial back is good as you want to go to 35 when it fires & if no DB make a mark on the dampener 2 & 1/4" CW from the TDC slit & that's 35.5 deg & w your vac adv plugged that'll b perfect for breakin. Some ring break in info that may interest you. "break in secrets" at www.mototuneusa.com. I would suggest: stat out, large shop fan in front of radiator, front of car jacked as far up as possible (air pockets), rear wheels just off the ground on heavy duty jack stands w a heavy duty floor hyd jack under/just touching the 3rd member for addit'l safety and start it in gear to load it, several helpers; one to man the tim light, one to add trans fluid, one to check for leaks up top, one to check for leaks underneath, you in the drivers seat to watch the gauges/monitor your helpers/shout orders. Any probs shut if off immed/fix it/restart to 2500 rpm. Almost forgot,light breakin springs for the cam, 4 or 5 pumps of gas, jetting in the ballpark, def not way rich. EDIT that's 10BTDC #6 compression but I'm assuming w the rotor at #6 that you ain't 180 out but as you know cant afford any snafu's on cam break in. Good break in oil. & if adjustable valves (solids) I like to adj them then remove the rocker arm assy's then goop the cam then reinstall the rockers as this will not ch your settings and alot of hand turning can wipe off too much lube. Good luck w it.

Do the 360s perform better a little advanced, retareded, or just at TDC? We decided to pick up a timing light today, just want to make sure we know actually where to set the timing. Thanks!

You want enough initial to build enough cyl psi for it to want to fire off immed and 10-15 is a good figure for a stock 70's low comp SB but for a measured 10-1 w I'm assuming a hotter cam along w it then 15 would b a good ballpark and this is just to get it started/broke in & you'll set the total at 35 (vac plugged) right when it fires. Later after breakin you can get the initial spot on w the vac gauge method then w that figure in hand shorten the slots to get 35 total (vac adv disconected) then play w the springs then hookup/adj the vac can. I'm assuming you have enough octane to support the 10-1. Dont need detonation issues to interfere w your breakin

Yes we have enough octane to support the 10-1. I am assuming you are stating 15 advanced correct? We do have a hotter cam with this from Hughes. I have Gibbs breakin oil with comp cam break in additive also. Anything else I could be missing...don't want to mess this up!!!

Where do you buy a good timing light?The cheapies I've always had won't work when you need them to.

Either Jacobs ign or MSD did an exhaustive test way back & found that (at that time) that the Sears basic non dial back one was one of the few accurate ones they tested. iirc they all show retarded readings from actual timing. It was a 4 digit part # but dont remem what it was & Sears quality has deteriorated down thru the years but I love playing w my dailback but when it eventually goes bad (it's a Sears so it will) I'm gonna get an Equus one w the tach function which is very handy for serious tuning. EDIT might check eGay as there's plenty of bargains to b had

There are some good tips on here,
But as far as timing lights go,don't get a dial back type.The Sears or MSD are the ones to get.The dial back type are not very accurate.Just about any serious dyno facility you see will not have a dial back.
I personally am on my second Sears "cheapy" unit.The first one lasted 22 years but had been dropped one too many times.
I am sure there are other timing lights that are decent,but these are what I know work,and what other reputable builders I know recommend.
Keith

How about a little hillbilly timing tape...



Bottom mark is tdc on balancer, each mark above is 15* away from each other. Took a timing tape I had, scribed and small cut with a file. No need for a dial back timing light. Just have to be good with math and I know that's tough sometimes with the "Math is hard" crew.